Daryl / Musket, I did it! (finally)

[riarcher]

Just ordered me a "Heritage" 1756'er.
Seems their phones close at 3:00, and it was near impossoble to call, so I just Faxed them.
Right up to the last minute though, I had (have) trouble selecting between the 1756 and the Sea/Land. ::
Selection finally got based on " :curse:". ::
Think the '56 is pertier! :redface: and the added barrel length may help me hit something with the longer sight radius. Musketman's prior mention about "stiff loads" made me keep in mind the 11# thing (along with the #6 shot experiences).
Daryl's general overview of his impressions leaned on the Sea / Land model, but, while it definately sounds more hunter (realisticly) friendly, I just couldn't get past the sight of an ugly butt! :shocking:
When I get it I'll be happy to give a "visual report," but keep in mind my expectations are not great.
I'm thinking that the steel and brass work, along with a fitted stock, is like buying a kit as "in the white" form. I've no problem doing some polishing on the metals and refinishing the stock for that kind of money. AND with a return policy that is outstanding to say the least. (Actually I'm planning on looking over the '56 and if I'm not pleasantly surprised it may go back for the land /sea)
Now some more 5 cent questions;
I've a "clamp-on with tube kleaning kit for flint". Do they work on a Bess? (looks "rude", have to clean it up before I clamp it to my shiney steel barrel)
Got some (big) English flint from TOW. They look HUGE! Hope I got the right ones?
Do I sound "excited?"
Feel like an expectant dad.
(Gonna be a long couple of weeks or so!!!!! :
(Hmmmmm, just looked, "Brown Mule" ain't that fast! :boohoo

 

[davidthered]

Yes, yes, please keep us updated, and your impressions when it arrives and you take it out to shoot.
By Sea/Land, so you mean the 3rd model bess? otherwise know as the East India Company model? Just wondering because that model wasn't in the Rev War,at least in America. They were using them IN India by the 1790's, but nowhere near our shores.
The 1756 sounds like a better choice.

 

[musketman]

If those big ol' flints are 3/4 to 1 inch wide, yep, that's them...

I'll have to give you back your nickle from your 5 cent question, I never used them before, I turn my musket upside down with the barrel pointing down to clean it, this allows the excess cleaning agent to run out the muzzle, and not into the barrel channel through the touch hole...

There's nothing like your first shot with a big bore musket, sure to put a big ol' grin on your face...

 

[quinnconner]

Who is this "heritage" company? I have been looking at Loyalist Arms Bess and also at Middlesex Village Trading Co.It sounds like your company has a great warranty and I am anxious to read your thoughts on your new gun.Best of luck with it.

 

[Rebel]

to a sight in a post, so try typing in
www.militaryheritage.com
That should take you to Heritage Arms. Hope this helps, and works.

 

Way to go riarcher! -
: Pvt. David - he was referring to the '78 Sea Service with the flat butt plate.
: The site is www.militaryheritage.com
: On that site, the video footage of the war of 1812 is taken right from the documentary. There are several 'shorts' of movies/documantaries with their muskets 7 uniforms there.
: RI' I'm certain you'll be pleased with the musket and I'm also certain you won't need to refinish any metal parts or wood for that matter. The wood as well appears to be well finished, but just about any comercial wood could do with a coat or two of True Oil with a pumice or 4-ought steel wool rub. I prefer the pumice powder, myself. I can't remember where I got it from but have been working on 16 ounces of it ever since I found/purchased it 30 years ago.
: Please start with a 1/16" flash hole. Due to the .75 bore, I don't think you'll need much more. Personally, I would pull the plug, and use a dremel tool to 'cup' the inside surface around the hole, to make it just like a vent liner. This will be easily done because of the BIG hole with the probable 7/8" thread.
: DO keep up posted.
: My oun musket got de-railed due to automotive requirments draining the musket fund. That situation will change end of June, though.
: I am still juggling Sea Service or 1728 St.Etienne musket. Already having both moulds just makes the decision harder. For your's, a .715 and .018" to .020" patch sounds about perfect.

 

[musketman]

I prefer the pumice powder, myself. I can't remember where I got it from but have been working on 16 ounces of it ever since I found/purchased it 30 years ago.

Ground Pumice Powder.

This place sells pumice powder...
http://www.selectoils.com/soaps/pomacepowder.htm

 

[riarcher]

Musket,
Flints are the TOW's "9/8 English" and measure 1-1 1/8" wide by 1 1/4 long. Catalog said "for Bess". Got 10 pcs to try. (HUGE hunk o' rock :: )

Daryl,
Both you and Musket willbe getting "mail" on this "project"(?) in the near future (Q&A's) I'm sure. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
The 1/16th was one of the questions. Anouther wouldbe, drilled at an uphill angle a good idea? :: (etc.)

JJ,
Checked out Loyalist. Had a couple with "blemished stocks" for cheap. Problem was No Return/warrentee on these items (and no pixs either) I shied away because what would a blemished stock have to do with a warenteed spring, frizzen, or barrel finish, lock function, etc. And purchasing sight unseen was a bit much for me to accept. And the bore is a less popular .77 cal. Not a big deal, but the wads/cards I already use fit the .75 cal (shotgun thing).

Pvt. David,
The Sea/Land is almost like a Trade musket in many ways. 37" barrel, No nose cap, They say it was an "exercise in manufacturing efficiency" (or something like that). Anyways, as mentioned I was in the market for a kit and happened upon these for less than a kit (and they are "in the white"). My intentions are to modify whichever into something a farmer, hunter, or adventurer may have accquired through whatever means and "sportserized (modified) to better suite their ideas/needs for non-military use. Not talking Luopold scope or nothing, maybe shortening, lightening, decorating, whittling a front sight out of the bayonet lug, other than a white sling, etc. While keeping a 1780's to 1800's poor folk in mind.
The Jan/Feb issue of "the Backwoodsman has an interesting article on "How to age your favorite smokepole" by Larry Williams. Now if I choose to beat this with chain, smoke it with a horseshoe, and drag on a dirt road behind the truck to acquire the desired "patina" ( :no: ) I don't want to do it to a $1600.00 custom. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif Will post an update on this for anyone interested.
Gary

PS; 1756- http://www.militaryheritage.com/musket10.htm
Sea/Land- http://www.militaryheritage.com/musket12.htm

 

The touch hole should be drilled straight into the barrel to keep this channel as short as possible. It should have it's middle on the 'table'. That is, the centre of the touch hole should be 'in line' with the flat, top edge of the pan. This will give the fastest ignition. With the Bess' pan being fairly deep, the hole could be a bit lower than level, but I'd not move it down very much if at all.
: I would then remove the plug, and use a dremmel bit with a round shape, stone or hardened steel, and round out the inside of the touch hole just a bit to reduce the width of the channel, just as a vent liner would. Go slow & carefully here, but do remove some metal for faster ignition. A vent liner makes a big difference in speed of ignition to a flintlock and you can get the same results with a dremel tool & bit. I would use the slowest speed the dremel gives and use a very light touch.
Daryl

 

[musketman]

: I would then remove the plug, and use a dremmel bit with a round shape, stone or hardened steel, and round out the inside of the touch hole just a bit to reduce the width of the channel, just as a vent liner would

I would use the bit marked "A or B" for this job, it would make a symetrical cut...

 

Right-on- bit marked "B" is perfect. Just a slight hollowing of the entrance to the breech, ahead of the plug is called for. "A" is just a might too small for me. It should be aproximately "1/8" to 3/16" in dia.
Daryl