Dipping leather in hot parrafin wax?

[JimG]

I've now got the knife sheath and a small ball bag made. Thanks to all who posted the wealth of info on this in regards to my early post on stitching leather. An older somewhat nutty individual at a local gun shop suggested that I dip my leather items in melted parrafin wax and to let them soak up the wax and then let cool. Claims it permanently waterproofs and treats leather. Sounds harsh to me. What do all of you think. I'm more inclined to use something like Pecard Leather Dressing. But I do have a whole bunch of parrafin wax though.

 

leather dipped in wax is commonly known as "jackware". It is good for canteens, bottles, cups and buckets. In all applications I have seen it makes the leather hard and one can feel the wax coating.

If the items need to be flexable and soft stick with any of the better leather treatments on the market, neetsfoot oil, mineral oil, tallow/beeswax dressing.....

 

[Norskie]

It'd sure stiffen up a knife sheath, but I don't see the benefit for a pouch. I've done this with sheaths when the customer wanted it, but I used beeswax. Should be about the same, darkens the leather a lot and makes it real stiff. Roman leather armor was boiled in beeswax until it would turn a slash from a sword. 'Cour boille' or something like that.

 

[crockett]

I would test anything on a scrap piece of leather. You can mix up B-C gunstock wax and neatsfoot oil, about 50/50 and soak that into the leather. You end up with a slightly softer piece of leather that's pretty waterproof, or waterproof. I did that on a sheath that had a strap incorporated into the design, all has stayed waterproof and flexible. The only negative is that it is irreversible- if you don't like it you can't get the oil/wax back out of the leather. Neatsfoot on its own seems to dry out after a while. Depending on the type sheath you have, you may just want to leave it as is.

 

[Black Hand]

It will also make the leather very hard. I wouldn't suggest this if you need any flexibility. It may be applicable for a knife sheath but for a bag, moccasins, pouches......

Another problem could be brittleness. Make sure it is not so hot as to cook the leather, as it will break and fall apart.

 

[roger zavoda]

boy if you have a bunch of this wax id sure like to get some from ya... :bow: :grin:

yella bar

 

[naysmyth]

I looked into this and this is the technique I found. melt your wax (your choice),take a heat gun or hair dryer and heat the leather, hot to touch, paint wax on,apply heat while letting it soak in, repeat until leather will not take anymore wax. Do this without gloves ,your fingers will tell you when the leather is hot enough.
I have not yet tried this but have seen examples.This will work better than submerging the peice also requiring smaller wax container.hope this help.
David

 

[benvenuto]

this technique is also called "cuir boulli" (in french)
medieval re-enactors use it to make leather armour
If you google the temr you'll find lots of info

 

[shmrck1]

Jim,
I have treated some of my leather products with
a mixture of heated neatsfoot oil(75%) and
beeswax(25%). Heated in a double broiler not
direct heat until liquidfied and warm. I then dab
and spread this mixture on the warmed leather
piece.(I use a hair dryer to warm the leather)
I usually only need to do this once. After the
leather has cooled I buff it lightly.
I personally would avoid soaking leather in
parrafin. I would use a straight oil product
rather than parrafin to soak leather in to
waterproof. Just my opinion. I know there are
others.
snake-eyes :hmm: