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Dirty Powder

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Due to the cost, I've been using Schuetzen FFF in my smoothbore 62. I have found that the bore is getting extremely dirty after only two or three shots. Plan to use some Goex as soon as I can pick up some and see if it makes a difference. Has anyone else found that Schuetzen causes extreme fouling? Just for your information I have been using .600 round ball with .020 linen patches lubed with moose milk. Behind the .600 is 70 gr. of the Schuetzen. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
 
To clean out the fouling,put some map( equal parts of Murphy's Oil Soap,Alcohol,and Perizode) on a patch and swab the bore. Will clean it to bare metal right now. Shake it up good to mix. Run oil patch to relube the bore afterwards. Dilly
 
This is what I currently use, but I should not have to use it quite so often such as after three shots. (especially if out in the field hunting.)
Guess what I'm actually asking is has anyone done any comparison studies of Goex vs. Schuetzen?
 
All I use in my shotguns now is Schuetzen and I have used many pounds of it. I don't find an issue at all with it fouling. I actually find it to be a pretty clean powder. In order of cleanliness, I find Swiss to be the cleanest, then Schuetzen, the Goex. The other powder I had tried is no longer being made, thank heavens! Maybe the lube you are using? Do you have a snug load that permits good complete burning? Loose loads are usually dirty loads.
 
I don't understand why you are NOT cleaning between each shot. It takes very little time, and insures that you have consistency for each shot, that is, a consistent barrel condition for each shot. In a smoothbore, consistent condition if vital to having any kind of accuracy at all! All it take me is to wet a cleaning patch with spit, lightly, run it down the barrel of my 20 gauge in stages on a jag, ( I push down 1/4 the length of the barrel, pull it back a couple of inches, then go down to half the barrel, pull back, etc. ) That patch comes out pretty black and cruddy. I then use a second patch, dry, to dry the barrel from my spit, and any moisture absorbed by the powder residue. Again, I do this is staged strokes. I don't want a dry patch STUCK in my barrel, because I loaded it with residue too quickly. If the patch looks particularly wet, or dirty, I flip it over, and run it down the barrel a second time.

I am looking for the absence of oily or damp crud from the Breechplug face. That tells me that the powder chamber is dry, and relatively clean. Now I am ready to put the new powder charge in the barrel, and finish reloading. I use an OP wad on top the powder, then a PRB. Then I run a lubed cleaning patch down the barrel to lube its entire length in front of the PRB. I wipe the priming pan, frizzen and flint off, then pick a hole in my powder charge with my vent pick, then prime, close the frizzen, and check my hammer to see that it is on half cock. MY last glance is to check the condition of the edge of the flint, and the distance it stands from the face of the frizzen when the hammer is at half cock. If all is in order, I am ready to continue my hunt.

With a 325 grain round ball, you do need a good patch to insure compression, and a high enough chamber pressure to insure clean burning of the powder, regardless of brand. I found that using the OP wad did a far better job of sealing the gases, and increasing both chamber pressure AND velocity. However, the velocity change was not as important as the substantial reduction in SDV, even in a smoothbore fowler. I don't have to worry about the condition of my bore for the 3rd or 4th shots, because It will be the same as my second shot, every time.

For safety sake, please consider running a damp cleaning patch down the barrel after ever shot, to put out any glowing embers OUT! That is the primary mission of the damp patch. The second, dry patch does the removal of residue, moisture and crud. MY experience with my smoothbore is that all the powders leave a residue in the barrel that instantly draws moisture from the air. By lubing the barrel after seating the PRB, I have found that the residue is much softer and easier to clean with the cleaning technique described. Before I began using that lubed patch down the barrel, I would often find a hard crud ring about 4-6 inches back of the muzzle. It melted if dealt with quickly with a damp patch, but it still slowed the cleaning, and was a constant concern because of its obvious affect on accuracy for subsequent rounds.
 
It's not your powder. It's clean as far as real BP goes. I personaly clean after each shot both in the field and the range, only takes an extra minute.

Also keep in mind a smoothbore has no rifling so fouling is more of an issue and all the more reason to clean after each shot.
 
I like Goex the best, I don't use MAP or moose milk or anything between powder and ball. I use a wet spit patch, .015(my measure)and a .600 ball,
my bore is .620. I've used this for, at least,the last 15 yrs. and I've never cleaned between shots,
this way has proved to be very accurate in my guns. Of about 48 (+or- one or two)smoothbore matches that I've shot in that time my guns have accounted for 45 1st and 2 or 3 2nds. Most shooters overcomplicate what is a very simple
procedure.
 
All the great responces have got me to thinking that when I had my first smoothie I did use spit patches rather than a fancy lube such as moose milk that I'm now using. I think I'll go back to the spit patch idea with a cleaning spit patch between each shot and see where that gets me.
 
Spit patches are fine for cleaning between shots or for a PRB at the range but for hunting where the PRB
most likely may sit for a while and possibly dry up a bit I don't like them. I use borebutter and minkoil if it's really cold. Hoppes for BP is great also.
 
Cutfingers;
I use schuetzen in my ML and cartridge guns and like it. One thing I do and you might try is to sift it. Use an old white tube sock, put in about 1/2 of a pound and work it around by hand for a few minites then pour out. Do the other 1/2 pound, it will take out all the fines. Doc
 
Try using a over powder wad and a Crico soaked cushion wad under your patched ball for an experiment. I used to do this when I had low humidity fouling problems and I could shoot 20 shots or better by using a crisco wad under the ball.....................Bob
 
I think I finally have seen the error of my ways regarding cards, wads etc. Now, in keeping with my compulsion for authenticity, can any one refer me to a source for a punch so as to cut my wads from leather? Or if any one has one for a 20 bore would they be willing to part with it at a reasonable price?
 
A 5/8" diameter punch would be .625" which works for a 20 gauge. Dixie GW used to sell them. There are other sources. The problem with leather is that if you don't use thick industrial drive belt leather, you may not get a good seal. Leather also won't accept lubricants well, or more important, even when you can soak leather in oils, the oils do not then flow out to lube the barrel, as well as occurs with something like your wool felt wads. As long as you understand the limitations of using leather for OP wads, you can do other things to compensate for leather's limitations.
 
leather is more pliable than desired for this kind of work. It will absorb liquid lubricants, but not the better solids. It absorbs, but does not compress to give out the oils or lubes to grease the bore, so there are better choices for lubing the barrel. Wool Felt wads hold either liquid or sold lubes, compress well, are fairly stiff, but give off the lubes to lubricate the bore as they pass out the barrel.

If you use two pieces of leather, you can put solid lube( like Stumpy's Moose Snot, Wonderlube, and others) between the two pieces, and the compression that occurs when the wads are being pushed out the barrel will spread the lube. If you use two leather wads from thick enough leather, You will get a better seal than if you use one, particularly if the leather is thin, like the leather used on men's dress belts these day. Glove leather might make an okay patching material to put around a RB, but it would be terrible for an OP wad. Because so many ML rifle barrels have very deep grooves, thin leather can't get down into and fill those grooves, allowing gases to blow by the patch and ball, and ruin accuracy. If you use a OP card wad or filler to seal the gases begin the ball, you can go ahead and use the thin leather to patch the round ball, with good accuracy.

As always, I am now recommending that you try before and after tests lubing the barrel After you seat the PRB, regardless of what you use as patching material. I also think OP wads are the way to get much more consistent velocities, and corresponding accuracy.

I hope this helps.
 
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