This is my first time using a double set trigger. I received it today and began to look at the operation and how to interface it to the sear. I don't see how it can touch the sear even after inletting.Triggers I used before had a high piece of metal that at least came close. What am I missing guys?
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double set trigger operation
- Thread starter JOEMIKE
- Start date
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The rear blade should be short so that when it is in the released position, it will "not quite" reach the sear arm.
IMO, these triggers are designed to be used in the "set" condition.
The front triggers primary task is just to release the rear set trigger. The fact that it has enough travel and has a blade which is high enough to serve as a single trigger is a nice feature but I can never set or locate the trigger assembly so that the front trigger has the nice close location with the sear arm that a simple trigger will have.
The general rule I use for locating the set trigger (fore/aft) is that the vee formed by the rear triggers blade (released) and the front triggers "blade" (with the front trigger pulled about 1/8 inch) should be under the sear arm.
The depth should locate the released rear trigger blade like I mentioned above, "just clearing" the sear arm but not touching it in any of the cocks (hammer) positions.
Because of the design, the owner of a gun with a set trigger should expect to have a lot of travel in the front trigger if he/she is firing the gun without first setting the rear trigger.
IMO, these triggers are designed to be used in the "set" condition.
The front triggers primary task is just to release the rear set trigger. The fact that it has enough travel and has a blade which is high enough to serve as a single trigger is a nice feature but I can never set or locate the trigger assembly so that the front trigger has the nice close location with the sear arm that a simple trigger will have.
The general rule I use for locating the set trigger (fore/aft) is that the vee formed by the rear triggers blade (released) and the front triggers "blade" (with the front trigger pulled about 1/8 inch) should be under the sear arm.
The depth should locate the released rear trigger blade like I mentioned above, "just clearing" the sear arm but not touching it in any of the cocks (hammer) positions.
Because of the design, the owner of a gun with a set trigger should expect to have a lot of travel in the front trigger if he/she is firing the gun without first setting the rear trigger.
Stophel
75 Cal.
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2005
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- 5,963
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The solution is of course, to ditch the front blade and make it a "single action" double set trigger...most old ones seem to be of that variety anyway. The front trigger pull is going to absolutely suck anyhow, no matter what you do. I have never been able to get a "decent" feeling straight pull with the front trigger. The problem is the low pin and the "angle of attack"...the trigger blade has to drive itself forward into the sear, rather than simply lifting it up. Once, I made a new front trigger that had a tall blade with a sloped surface shaped much like I would a plain trigger. A definite improvement. The trigger was closer to the same angle that the sear was, and it was much smoother operating, HOWEVER, the pin was still way too low, and during its travel upwards, the sear still slid a long way across the surface of the trigger blade...very disconcerting...better than the ordinary variety, though.
On most of the Jaeger trigger sets, I usually end up adding a plate of metal on top of both of the triggers to make them both taller. I cut & fit them & silver solder them on. This gives me the height I need & also the angle I neec to make the pull less on the front one.
tnlonghunter
40 Cal.
Okay,
I'm a little confused. I've got double set triggers on my TN mountain rifle. I don't know what brand they are, but the rifle is one of Jack Garner's, if that gives any ideas.
I took the triggers off to see how they worked a while ago. It looked to me that when using the front main trigger in the unset position, the bar simply pivots up to hit the sear arm. When I would set the rear trigger, it seems to load a spring, which bears on the front trigger. That way, the slightest pressure on the front trigger will trip the spring and use the energy from the spring to throw the front bar up and hit the sear. With that set up, only the front trigger bar ever has to touch the sear arm.
Is that not how they are supposed to work? It seemed rather straight forward just looking at it, but most of y'all probably know better.
I ask because I'm going to start building one of Chambers' York rifles soon and I bought the double trigger. It's the first rifle I'll have seriously worked on, and I'm now wondering if getting that trigger was a mistake.
I'm a little confused. I've got double set triggers on my TN mountain rifle. I don't know what brand they are, but the rifle is one of Jack Garner's, if that gives any ideas.
I took the triggers off to see how they worked a while ago. It looked to me that when using the front main trigger in the unset position, the bar simply pivots up to hit the sear arm. When I would set the rear trigger, it seems to load a spring, which bears on the front trigger. That way, the slightest pressure on the front trigger will trip the spring and use the energy from the spring to throw the front bar up and hit the sear. With that set up, only the front trigger bar ever has to touch the sear arm.
Is that not how they are supposed to work? It seemed rather straight forward just looking at it, but most of y'all probably know better.
I ask because I'm going to start building one of Chambers' York rifles soon and I bought the double trigger. It's the first rifle I'll have seriously worked on, and I'm now wondering if getting that trigger was a mistake.
tnlonghunter
40 Cal.
Never mind. I'm an idiot. I took the trigger out of my TN rifle and saw what I was missing.
I understand your safety concerns about cold fingers trying to manipulate set triggers on a hunting rifle, but I would suggest that the best solution is to use a good single trigger, properly installed, if you plan to use the rifle to hunt in cold weather. If you use the front trigger unset when you are hunting you have to contend with a bad trigger pull which you have not gotten used to when you practiced with the rifle. It's a matter of personal preference, of course--here in Western NC the weather ususlly is too warm durning ML seaston to impede use of set triggers.
tnlonghunter
40 Cal.
I don't actually mind the unset front trigger pull on mine. I may just be fortunate, but it's never been an issue. I really only have used the set trigger for competitions. I mostly practice for hunting situations and use the front one alone. It's got maybe 3-4 pounds of pull and is quite crisp. :hmm:
I think a lot of this depends on the design of the set triggers, or more to the point probably, who the manufacturer is.
Some production guns like Lyman and TC have a usable unset trigger pull. Not great or smooth, but usable. While a trigger like the Davis TR 6 has a really terrible, "is this thing even cocked?" unset trigger pull.
If you look at the triggers you will see a little different design. The Lyman (GPR) has longer bars with a convex radius where the bar contacts the sear. This gives a little more leverage and slide to the unset front trigger.
The Davis on the other hand has smaller flat bars which don't really give you leverage or metal to metal "slide" when used unset.
I consider the "off-the-shelf" Davis to be one that really should be fired from the set position.
I have never gotten an even halfway decent unset trigger pull from set triggers I have installed in new guns.
However, I did put a Davis RPL in a GPR and the unset pull was decent. I haven't taken these triggers out to examine them but I did look at the Lyman triggers I removed. Thats when I noticed the design was a little different. Probably the bars of the Davis RPL is close to the Lyman design.
I guess they can do this because they know what rifle these are going into.
Some production guns like Lyman and TC have a usable unset trigger pull. Not great or smooth, but usable. While a trigger like the Davis TR 6 has a really terrible, "is this thing even cocked?" unset trigger pull.
If you look at the triggers you will see a little different design. The Lyman (GPR) has longer bars with a convex radius where the bar contacts the sear. This gives a little more leverage and slide to the unset front trigger.
The Davis on the other hand has smaller flat bars which don't really give you leverage or metal to metal "slide" when used unset.
I consider the "off-the-shelf" Davis to be one that really should be fired from the set position.
I have never gotten an even halfway decent unset trigger pull from set triggers I have installed in new guns.
However, I did put a Davis RPL in a GPR and the unset pull was decent. I haven't taken these triggers out to examine them but I did look at the Lyman triggers I removed. Thats when I noticed the design was a little different. Probably the bars of the Davis RPL is close to the Lyman design.
I guess they can do this because they know what rifle these are going into.
Erzulis boat
45 Cal.
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2005
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- 566
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- 78
There are other factors involved, and the trigger assembly is just one.
I just installed a Davis doubleset trigger, and the front trigger is superb. Crisp, light, and smooth.
I prefer the front trigger to the set mode. :hmm:
I just installed a Davis doubleset trigger, and the front trigger is superb. Crisp, light, and smooth.
I prefer the front trigger to the set mode. :hmm:
