I am not too fussed on the single trigger on my Pedersoli Kentucky rifle. Does anyone know whether the double set triggers such as found on the frontier and Pennsylvania rifles would fit and work on the Kentucky? Has anyone fitted double set triggers to their Pedersoli Kentucky?
-
Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.
We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.
Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103
Double set triggers Pedersoli Kentucky
- Thread starter Kapow
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
I would have to see exactly how much room there is in the trigger area to install set triggers.
They do take more space, not only in the stock under the lock but in the bow of the trigger guard.
The first question is, Does your existing lock have a "fly" in it?
With the common double set double lever set triggers, the fly is needed to allow the hammer or cock to fall from a fully cocked position to the fired position without your finger holding the trigger back.
To find out if your lock has a fly, take your unloaded gun and point it in a safe direction.
Then, fully cock the gun so it is ready to fire.
Hold your thumb on the hammer or cock and gently pull the trigger just far enough to release the hammer. Keep the hammer/cock from falling with your thumb.
With the hammer/cock restrained, now take your finger off of the trigger.
Now, allow the hammer/cock to fall slowly. It may hesitate when it reaches the half cock notch location.
Now is the moment of truth.
If the hammer/cock continues to fall to the fired position, your lock has a fly in it. A double set trigger will work.
If the hammer/cock stops because the half cock notch has captured the sear, you cannot install a common double set trigger even if you find one that will fit.
They do take more space, not only in the stock under the lock but in the bow of the trigger guard.
The first question is, Does your existing lock have a "fly" in it?
With the common double set double lever set triggers, the fly is needed to allow the hammer or cock to fall from a fully cocked position to the fired position without your finger holding the trigger back.
To find out if your lock has a fly, take your unloaded gun and point it in a safe direction.
Then, fully cock the gun so it is ready to fire.
Hold your thumb on the hammer or cock and gently pull the trigger just far enough to release the hammer. Keep the hammer/cock from falling with your thumb.
With the hammer/cock restrained, now take your finger off of the trigger.
Now, allow the hammer/cock to fall slowly. It may hesitate when it reaches the half cock notch location.
Now is the moment of truth.
If the hammer/cock continues to fall to the fired position, your lock has a fly in it. A double set trigger will work.
If the hammer/cock stops because the half cock notch has captured the sear, you cannot install a common double set trigger even if you find one that will fit.
nwtradegun
50 Cal.
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2011
- Messages
- 1,496
- Reaction score
- 17
I checked a parts diagram. it shows a fly in it. contact l and r locks or davis triggers to see if one of there double sets will fit.
Single set triggers are even fussier to install than double set triggers and there is a much smaller choice of them.
Finding one that will work will be a challenge.
Here's a link to the more common ones available.
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/919/1
Finding one that will work will be a challenge.
Here's a link to the more common ones available.
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/919/1
Last edited by a moderator:
Joel/Calgary
50 Cal.
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2004
- Messages
- 1,251
- Reaction score
- 6
You'll have to verify this, but as I recall it, the Pennsylvania, the Kentucky, the Dixie Cub, the Scout, and the Alamo are all variations of one basic line, and the parts should be common or interchangeable. The Frontier (Blue Ridge) is a completely different model, although it is not impossible that the trigger assemblies are common with the others.
Regards,
Joel
Regards,
Joel
I believe Rusty showed me that Cabela's Kentucky (made by Pedersoli) traded the patchbox for a double set trigger... No? In fact I kept looking at the sales around Christmas but just couldn't justify it. That said, it is such a sweet gun (I have the original single trigger Pedersoli Kentucky rifle and a couple of the pistols in .50) that it might be a "go-to" if I were to have only one... And it's a bargain.
Thanks guys, just got the mail from Pedersoli who say they are all different lines and use different triggers. That doesn't mean I couldn't make the right trigger fit. The more thought I give it the more I am leaning towards a single set trigger.
The problem I have is that the pull is so heavy that I am disturbing my aim and follow through when I shoot without a rest. I sent Davis an email to get their opinion.
Dikman a photo would be a great help, thanks bud.
The problem I have is that the pull is so heavy that I am disturbing my aim and follow through when I shoot without a rest. I sent Davis an email to get their opinion.
Dikman a photo would be a great help, thanks bud.
Alden said:
Correctamundo Aldon! The Cabelas version is whats mentioned above. And the Cabelas KY & Ped. KY are 36" versions of the PA and Dixie PA rifles (41") respectively.
kingsax26
45 Cal.
Rather than go through all the hassle of making a trigger fit you could have your single trigger reworked. I much prefer a well adjusted single trigger over set triggers and when done properly you can achieve just as fine a trigger pull as a good set trigger
kingsax26
45 Cal.
Well I'm not a professional or even that knowledgable about how to do it. But I know that it can be done... I would suggest searching or asking around the gun builders forum... But a have a few rifles with single triggers... All are fine triggers with perfectly fine trigger pulls. From around 3lbs give or take. Like I said .... Check the gun building forum
MacRob46
45 Cal.
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2007
- Messages
- 643
- Reaction score
- 36
Kapow said:
If your trigger pull is that heavy it will be one of two things: 1) (and most likely) the trigger is poorly positioned in relation to the sear. If you remove your lock and look through the hole in the stock where the trigger engages the sear bar you will be able to determine what part of the trigger is contacting the sear bar. If it is the rear of the trigger then that is your problem; 2) If it is the front of the trigger then the problem lies with the lock and probably a too heavy sear spring. Replacing the single trigger with a set trigger will alleviate that some if the lock is the problem but you might also try a lighter sear spring - keeping safety in mind, of course. If your lock does not have a fly in the tumbler then set triggers will probably not work. You might also try polishing the surface of the trigger where it contacts the sear bar. Some times that will improve the pull a bit, especially if the trigger feels "gritty." Also check for excessive lube in the lock mechanism and degrease then re-lube if need be. Replacing the trigger in a gun like this can be problematic as others have mentioned.
Dang it. Found this thread cause I have the exact issue.
I'm going to try polishing, but I really want doubles. Maybe should have bought a different rifle? Really like the gun, and great with a rest, but........
Oh well, maybe I have to buy another.
Luckily, every time I buy another gun she says, "Cool, I like that one!"
I am blessed, Eric
I'm going to try polishing, but I really want doubles. Maybe should have bought a different rifle? Really like the gun, and great with a rest, but........
Oh well, maybe I have to buy another.
Luckily, every time I buy another gun she says, "Cool, I like that one!"
I am blessed, Eric
Similar threads
