Dowel making??

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PitchyPine

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Anyone seen ways of making wood dowels, seems i seen once that you can pound a piece of wood through a hole but can`t find info about it. :hmm:
 
Pitchy get yerself a good thick piece of plate steel, drill a hole through it the size of the dowel ya want, then flip over the steel n countersink the hole until there is a good sharp edge at the rim of yer original hole dia. cut yer dowel wood a bit over sized n drive it through the hole from the original top side of the steel. The dowels may be a little raggedy but you can sand em up some to smooth them. if ya whittle the dowel blanks to near size they go through the hole alot easier too.
 
YOu use a steel plate, drill a hole the size of rod you want, and then bevel edges on one side. The cone on the one side held you start it into the hole. Then you pull the end sticking out and its strips off the wood and gives you a dowel the diameter of the hole. In theory. YOu obviously have to taper one end of the wood you want to turn into an dowel, to get part of it through the hole to start. Then you have to grab onto it with something, and have enough strenght to pull the wood through.

If you are making short pieces, then a soft rubber, or wood mallet will pound the wood through the sizing plate.

Another way to make sticks is to drill a hole, and file or saw a " U " shaped notch from the edge to the hole, so that the round portion of the hole you drilled forms the bottom of the " U ". Then, you take a square piece of wood stock, and draw it through the upper sides of the U until you work the stick round and its the size of that hole at the bottom. With hickory stock, you should get a rod that has no run-out. Again, you can make a plate with various sized " U's" to make different sized rods.

My late friend tapered my Ramrod for my rifle using this later method, so that the small end would squeeze by the forward lockplate bolt. When he got it down to the size he wanted, he then put it on a belt sander, and finished it off by gently rolling it over a slow speed fine grit sanding belt with his hand. He told me that if he tried to reduct the diameter of the rod with just the sander that I would have had a weaker stick with run-out. Oh, he pulled the stick through the non-beveled side of the sizing plate he made. He told me that since it was already round,and he was just reducing its diameter at one end, pulling it the other way was the way to go. Since I had never done it, and was watching him do this the first time, I just listened and watched. Later, he handed me some scrap square stock to try in the sizing plate so I would know how to do it.
 
Thanks Birdman and Paul, I was thinking of the way you mentioned about a hole in a plate, the bevel on the bottom would keep the rod from binding up and the sharp edge would cut. I`ll have to experiment a little tomarrow. :thumbsup:
 
I have also seen dowels- short ones made with a hole punch held upside down, so the wood could be driven on tho the edge of the puch, with a wooden mallet. I am not sure how straight those dowels were.
 
paulvallandigham said:
I have also seen dowels- short ones made with a hole punch held upside down, so the wood could be driven on tho the edge of the puch, with a wooden mallet. I am not sure how straight those dowels were.


It will be fun to see what works the best, i was thinking that if the tool was real tall and skinny that would give the wood that don`t go through the hole a place to go. :hmm:
 
Run the dowel blank though the hole with an electric drill. It's MUCH faster and easier than pounding it through.
 
That Draw Plate works well for making round wood dowels, but requirea a LOT of muscle to pull them through. It also helps to have several different sized holes to use. Start with the largest, and then move on down through the other sizes until you get to the size you need. Each step removes less wood, but is a little easier to do, and the chance of some splintering or run-out is reduced. Same thing with the U or V notches, but with a tapered V notch you just work your way down it to the correct sized hole at the bottom.

That Draw Plate is also a common method used for final rough shaping of wood pegs (trenails) for holding wooden beams together. You cut them mostly to the length you want, and then use a wooden mallet to drive them through those different sized holes. Driving them through still leaves them a little "rough" which helps hold them in the beams. The other method is a sharpened section of pipe of the size peg you want. You hammer your wood down into the sharpened end of the pipe and have it "cut" the size peg you need. Of course, you will have to poke/push it out - just hammer through an extra one and leave the last one in your cutter/sizer for the next time.

Draw Plates were also used to make WIRE before they developed better "rolling mills". Lengths of square bars were pulled through progressively smaller holes, and the metal was stretched/compressed into smaller round sizes. The Silversmith at Williamsburg video shows them doing this with a bar of silver - to make silver wire. They also did it with a special hole to form a strip of molding and to form a strip of sheet around some wire to use as a hinge.

The large version of that "dowel cutter/plane" is called a Stall Engine. But it was mostly used for rounding up handles for tools like rakes and shovels. Roy Underhill shows one in one of his Woodwright books.

Just a few humble thoughts to share. Take them as such.

Mikey - yee ol' grumpy German blacksmith out in the Hinterlands
 
Thanks for your thoughts, this is what i had in mind.

The other method is a sharpened section of pipe of the size peg you want. You hammer your wood down into the sharpened end of the pipe and have it "cut" the size peg you need. Of course, you will have to poke/push it out - just hammer through an extra one and leave the last one in your cutter/sizer for the next time.
 
That sharpened pipe works well for short "pegs", and "rough" shaping. Since you have to hammer it through, it's too easy to break/splinter your wood piece. And that sharpened end of the pipe will "cut off" the wood outside of it, but it can also "run with the grain" a bit and pull splinters out of the inside dowel that you want to create. It works great for making rough pegs to hold barn beams together, but can be fairly rough for more finished work.

And it also takes a whole lot more "force" to pull your dowel stock through a length of sharpened pipe - much much more than pulling it through a hole in a Draw Plate.

So I think you would be much happier with a Draw Plate with several graduated sized holes, or a few U or V notches along the edge.

Those V-Block knife sharpeners work on the same principle. Those staggered layers of steel plates forming the V each scrape a little bit off the sides of your knife edge, and "true up" and sharpen it.

Fun projects - learning to use some of the old methods and tools.

Mikey - yee ol' grumpy German blacksmith out in the Hinterlands
 
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