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Drilling Jig
- Thread starter Jim Evans
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Col. Batguano
75 Cal.
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Is that the David Rase jig? If you are very good and careful with a lining things up on a drill press, you don't really need it. With pins, because they're pretty much invisible, it doesn't really matter if you are off by a little bit anyway. With wedges it's a different story, because they, and the estrucheons show a lot more.
One thing though, as those bits are very small and very long, don't try to drill through wood-metal tab-wood all at once. You'll likely snap a bit. Just drill to the point you mark the tab with the bit, and then drill the tab itself with a much shorter bit while out of the stock.
I would also suggest drilling each side separately, so as to minimize the possibility of drill bit wandering, That has happened to me quite a bit even with much larger bits and a drill press center spike when drilling the tang bolt to trigger plate hole. Fortunately, if the trigger plate hole is off by just a smidge, nobody really ever notices that.
I'm looking for a jig or devise that will accurately help you find and locate the proper place to drill your tang bolt.
One thing though, as those bits are very small and very long, don't try to drill through wood-metal tab-wood all at once. You'll likely snap a bit. Just drill to the point you mark the tab with the bit, and then drill the tab itself with a much shorter bit while out of the stock.
I would also suggest drilling each side separately, so as to minimize the possibility of drill bit wandering, That has happened to me quite a bit even with much larger bits and a drill press center spike when drilling the tang bolt to trigger plate hole. Fortunately, if the trigger plate hole is off by just a smidge, nobody really ever notices that.
I'm looking for a jig or devise that will accurately help you find and locate the proper place to drill your tang bolt.
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Col. Batguano has already said what I will copy. Drill from both sides, and forget the drilling jig at least for that project. Remember to elongate the holes in the barrel loop for expansion if you are using solid material, versus a U shaped one.
Flintlocklar
Sidney Smith
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Agree. You don't need a drill rig. I use hand drills on barrel pin holes. Not hard to do really. If concerned habe a second set of eyes watching to guide you.
No its a MSM, a company in West VA.
user 34300
54 Cal.
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If it give you peace of mind I think it is fine. I would do half from one side then flip it around. Do the tab as a separate operation.
I now do them in the milling machine. That said I recently botched a couple of trigger guard pin holes. I tried to clamp the trigger guard in place and drill through the guard tab and stock in one shot. Despite the careful setup the bit went off in a banana curve after penetrating the brass. Instead of rethinking I tried the second tab home and got he same result. I would never do these free hand. I want everything as perfect as I can make. Most are not as picky.
I now do them in the milling machine. That said I recently botched a couple of trigger guard pin holes. I tried to clamp the trigger guard in place and drill through the guard tab and stock in one shot. Despite the careful setup the bit went off in a banana curve after penetrating the brass. Instead of rethinking I tried the second tab home and got he same result. I would never do these free hand. I want everything as perfect as I can make. Most are not as picky.
longcruise
70 Cal.
I'm getting the principal of the tool but I can't see that a drill will fit through the little pointy things???
Col. Batguano
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The David Rase jig has collets for both 1/16" and 1/8" bits, (or it might be 3/32") and he furnishes 2 of each size with his jig. The collets fit inside one end so as to allow using either size bit.
This gizmo looks a little simpler in design than his, as it also had a wing screw in the middle to help with vertical placement. The tool itself seems like it would have pretty limited application outside of gun building, but there may be some I don't know about.
Last I heard (2-3 years ago) the whole shebang was about $34 from him direct.
This gizmo looks a little simpler in design than his, as it also had a wing screw in the middle to help with vertical placement. The tool itself seems like it would have pretty limited application outside of gun building, but there may be some I don't know about.
Last I heard (2-3 years ago) the whole shebang was about $34 from him direct.
To my understanding the silver point is used to mark a spot and the you remove it and put the short color in to fit your drill size.The hex nut screw stay.
I for one can't figure out how someone could drill a pin hole from both sides of the stock and get it to line up when they were done.
Just a 1/64" error from one side to the other would keep a pin from being able to be inserted.
On my first longrifles, I drilled the pin holes completely thru the wood and the underlug from one side. I used a 5/64 diameter drill so the bit would be long enough to break thru the far side. (Plus I like the 5/64" pins because they allow me to use a 1/16" dowel to drive the pins out if I want to remove them.)
I do sympathize with people drilling the holes for the barrel underlugs. It is definitely a "white knuckle" time.
That's why I built a drill jig very similar to the one in the OP's post.
To use this kind of jig you first have to lay out the hole location on both sides of the stock. Double or triple check these locations before going further. When you're sure of the locations, use an awl to poke a hole in the center of them.
Insert the pointed 'locating pin" into its hole in the jig and then position its point in one of the holes made by the awl. DO NOT clamp this pin. It must be free to slide.
Locate the other pointed locator with the screw head (or the T handle on my jig) in the other awl hole on the other side of the stock and while keeping the sliding locator pin engaged with its hole, tighten the screw (T handle) to clamp the jig to the wood.
Once this is done, remove the sliding locator pin and insert the right size drill bushing, clamping it in place with the thumb screw (it's just a screw on my jig).
Now, using your electric drill and the right size drill bit, carefully guide the drill into the bushing and drill the hole into the wood.
You are drilling a really "deep" hole so pull the drill bit completely out of the drill bushing to clear the chips out of the drill flutes.
While I'm drilling, I do drill completely thru the barrel underlug, again, backing out the drill bit often to clear the chips. Don't try to force the drill when drilling steel. Just apply enough pressure to keep the drill cutting.
Once the drill bit has passed thru the underlug you can remove the drill jig from the stock. DO NOT TRY TO DRILL COMPLETELY THRU THE STOCK AT THIS TIME. Remember, the pointed end of the clamp screw is still in the locator on the other side.
Now, remove the jig and then use the just drilled hole as a guide to finish drilling thru the stock to the other side.
Be sure the hole breaks completely thru both sides of the stock.
Noting worse than pinning a barrel in the stock only to find that you can't drive the pin out of a blind hole that didn't go all the way thru.
(edit to add) This drill jig also works great for drilling the screw hole for the tang screw into the trigger plate.
To do this, make a mark on the outside of the trigger plate where you want the screw to come out.
Also, mark the location for the screw on the barrel tang.
Use a tiny center drill or a 1/16" drill bit to drill a shallow hole at the marks on the trigger plate and on the barrel tang.
Locate the jig by using the sliding locator pin in the 1/16" tang hole and clamp the jig in place by locating the screw (T handle) pointed screw in the trigger plates 1/16" hole. Remember to allow the sliding locating pin move while the jig is being clamped so that the clamp is firmly clamped onto the stock. Remove the sliding locator pin and install the drill bushing and drill the hole.
Again, do NOT drill completely thru the trigger plate while the jig is still installed.
Once the drill has passed thru the wrist and has started to drill the trigger plate steel, remove the jig and then enlarge the hole with a correctly sized tap drill thru the newly made hole in the barrel tang and wood. The tap drill will then automatically be aligned with the right location in the trigger plate so you can finish the hole thru the trigger plate .
Once the thru hole is drilled, I remove the trigger plate and enlarge the hole thru the tang and wrist using a drill bit that will just clear the thread size of the screw.
Once this clearance hole is drilled thru the wood, I reinstall the trigger plate and then use the screw sized hole to guide the tap for the threads in the trigger plate.
This might seem to be a long way to get to the end but the screw hole threads in the trigger plate will be perfectly aligned with the tang screw hole.
Just a 1/64" error from one side to the other would keep a pin from being able to be inserted.
On my first longrifles, I drilled the pin holes completely thru the wood and the underlug from one side. I used a 5/64 diameter drill so the bit would be long enough to break thru the far side. (Plus I like the 5/64" pins because they allow me to use a 1/16" dowel to drive the pins out if I want to remove them.)
I do sympathize with people drilling the holes for the barrel underlugs. It is definitely a "white knuckle" time.
That's why I built a drill jig very similar to the one in the OP's post.
To use this kind of jig you first have to lay out the hole location on both sides of the stock. Double or triple check these locations before going further. When you're sure of the locations, use an awl to poke a hole in the center of them.
Insert the pointed 'locating pin" into its hole in the jig and then position its point in one of the holes made by the awl. DO NOT clamp this pin. It must be free to slide.
Locate the other pointed locator with the screw head (or the T handle on my jig) in the other awl hole on the other side of the stock and while keeping the sliding locator pin engaged with its hole, tighten the screw (T handle) to clamp the jig to the wood.
Once this is done, remove the sliding locator pin and insert the right size drill bushing, clamping it in place with the thumb screw (it's just a screw on my jig).
Now, using your electric drill and the right size drill bit, carefully guide the drill into the bushing and drill the hole into the wood.
You are drilling a really "deep" hole so pull the drill bit completely out of the drill bushing to clear the chips out of the drill flutes.
While I'm drilling, I do drill completely thru the barrel underlug, again, backing out the drill bit often to clear the chips. Don't try to force the drill when drilling steel. Just apply enough pressure to keep the drill cutting.
Once the drill bit has passed thru the underlug you can remove the drill jig from the stock. DO NOT TRY TO DRILL COMPLETELY THRU THE STOCK AT THIS TIME. Remember, the pointed end of the clamp screw is still in the locator on the other side.
Now, remove the jig and then use the just drilled hole as a guide to finish drilling thru the stock to the other side.
Be sure the hole breaks completely thru both sides of the stock.
Noting worse than pinning a barrel in the stock only to find that you can't drive the pin out of a blind hole that didn't go all the way thru.
(edit to add) This drill jig also works great for drilling the screw hole for the tang screw into the trigger plate.
To do this, make a mark on the outside of the trigger plate where you want the screw to come out.
Also, mark the location for the screw on the barrel tang.
Use a tiny center drill or a 1/16" drill bit to drill a shallow hole at the marks on the trigger plate and on the barrel tang.
Locate the jig by using the sliding locator pin in the 1/16" tang hole and clamp the jig in place by locating the screw (T handle) pointed screw in the trigger plates 1/16" hole. Remember to allow the sliding locating pin move while the jig is being clamped so that the clamp is firmly clamped onto the stock. Remove the sliding locator pin and install the drill bushing and drill the hole.
Again, do NOT drill completely thru the trigger plate while the jig is still installed.
Once the drill has passed thru the wrist and has started to drill the trigger plate steel, remove the jig and then enlarge the hole with a correctly sized tap drill thru the newly made hole in the barrel tang and wood. The tap drill will then automatically be aligned with the right location in the trigger plate so you can finish the hole thru the trigger plate .
Once the thru hole is drilled, I remove the trigger plate and enlarge the hole thru the tang and wrist using a drill bit that will just clear the thread size of the screw.
Once this clearance hole is drilled thru the wood, I reinstall the trigger plate and then use the screw sized hole to guide the tap for the threads in the trigger plate.
This might seem to be a long way to get to the end but the screw hole threads in the trigger plate will be perfectly aligned with the tang screw hole.
Last edited:
longcruise
70 Cal.
Ok, I'm not real quick on figuring out mechanical devices by looking at a picture, but I got it now thanks to the excellent description.
I use the same principal with a drill press jig which works fine but this type would make handling the work pieces easier.
I use the same principal with a drill press jig which works fine but this type would make handling the work pieces easier.
Bill Raby's Lancaster Flintlock Rifle Build Part 14 shows him drilling barrel pins beginning about minute 25.
I for one can't figure out how someone could drill a pin hole from both sides of the stock and get it to line up when they were done.
Just a 1/64" error from one side to the other would keep a pin from being able to be inserted.
On my first longrifles, I drilled the pin holes completely thru the wood and the underlug from one side. I used a 5/64 diameter drill so the bit would be long enough to break thru the far side. (Plus I like the 5/64" pins because they allow me to use a 1/16" dowel to drive the pins out if I want to remove them.)
I do sympathize with people drilling the holes for the barrel underlugs. It is definitely a "white knuckle" time.
That's why I built a drill jig very similar to the one in the OP's post.
View attachment 22768
To use this kind of jig you first have to lay out the hole location on both sides of the stock. Double or triple check these locations before going further. When you're sure of the locations, use an awl to poke a hole in the center of them.
Insert the pointed 'locating pin" into its hole in the jig and then position its point in one of the holes made by the awl. DO NOT clamp this pin. It must be free to slide.
Locate the other pointed locator with the screw head (or the T handle on my jig) in the other awl hole on the other side of the stock and while keeping the sliding locator pin engaged with its hole, tighten the screw (T handle) to clamp the jig to the wood.
Once this is done, remove the sliding locator pin and insert the right size drill bushing, clamping it in place with the thumb screw (it's just a screw on my jig).
Now, using your electric drill and the right size drill bit, carefully guide the drill into the bushing and drill the hole into the wood.
You are drilling a really "deep" hole so pull the drill bit completely out of the drill bushing to clear the chips out of the drill flutes.
While I'm drilling, I do drill completely thru the barrel underlug, again, backing out the drill bit often to clear the chips. Don't try to force the drill when drilling steel. Just apply enough pressure to keep the drill cutting.
Once the drill bit has passed thru the underlug you can remove the drill jig from the stock. DO NOT TRY TO DRILL COMPLETELY THRU THE STOCK AT THIS TIME. Remember, the pointed end of the clamp screw is still in the locator on the other side.
Now, remove the jig and then use the just drilled hole as a guide to finish drilling thru the stock to the other side.
Be sure the hole breaks completely thru both sides of the stock.
Noting worse than pinning a barrel in the stock only to find that you can't drive the pin out of a blind hole that didn't go all the way thru.
(edit to add) This drill jig also works great for drilling the screw hole for the tang screw into the trigger plate.
To do this, make a mark on the outside of the trigger plate where you want the screw to come out.
Also, mark the location for the screw on the barrel tang.
Use a tiny center drill or a 1/16" drill bit to drill a shallow hole at the marks on the trigger plate and on the barrel tang.
Locate the jig by using the sliding locator pin in the 1/16" tang hole and clamp the jig in place by locating the screw (T handle) pointed screw in the trigger plates 1/16" hole. Remember to allow the sliding locating pin move while the jig is being clamped so that the clamp is firmly clamped onto the stock. Remove the sliding locator pin and install the drill bushing and drill the hole.
Again, do NOT drill completely thru the trigger plate while the jig is still installed.
Once the drill has passed thru the wrist and has started to drill the trigger plate steel, remove the jig and then enlarge the hole with a correctly sized tap drill thru the newly made hole in the barrel tang and wood. The tap drill will then automatically be aligned with the right location in the trigger plate so you can finish the hole thru the trigger plate .
Once the thru hole is drilled, I remove the trigger plate and enlarge the hole thru the tang and wrist using a drill bit that will just clear the thread size of the screw.
Once this clearance hole is drilled thru the wood, I reinstall the trigger plate and then use the screw sized hole to guide the tap for the threads in the trigger plate.
This might seem to be a long way to get to the end but the screw hole threads in the trigger plate will be perfectly aligned with the tang screw hole.
Thanks for the inspiration and a good idea. I've had difficulty in the past drilling through the stock accurately then through staples for key fitting. Made this jig today that will allow me to drill through the fore stock with a 1/16" bit with alignment and minimal deflection.
Hi....bought a "C" type pin drilling fixture and found it to be inaccurate and way too slow. Promptly sold it.
My drill press has a large sheet of 3/4" thick plywood bolted to the table and after the pin holes are laid out for either the bbl lugs or RR pipes, the bbl/stock ass'y is clamped in my super accurate vise w/ the bbl.'s top flat against the permanent vise jaw. The vise, stock/bbl ass'y is placed on the plywood, a parallel is placed under the muzzle end to keep things horizontal , the first pin location has clamps on both sides to force the bbl stock together and the 1/16 dia hole is drilled through to the other side. The clamps are installed for the 2nd hole and a length of music wire is put in the already drilled hole. This is done until all the holes are drilled.
Total time for drilling the 4 bbl lug holes is 15-20 mins and slightly less for the 3 RR pipe holes.
On my Bucks County builds, the web at the breech is only 1/16" thick so accuracy is a must. Have been using this procedure for many years and in truth, have never broken a 1/16 drill or had to do patch up w/ an errant hole. …..Fred
My drill press has a large sheet of 3/4" thick plywood bolted to the table and after the pin holes are laid out for either the bbl lugs or RR pipes, the bbl/stock ass'y is clamped in my super accurate vise w/ the bbl.'s top flat against the permanent vise jaw. The vise, stock/bbl ass'y is placed on the plywood, a parallel is placed under the muzzle end to keep things horizontal , the first pin location has clamps on both sides to force the bbl stock together and the 1/16 dia hole is drilled through to the other side. The clamps are installed for the 2nd hole and a length of music wire is put in the already drilled hole. This is done until all the holes are drilled.
Total time for drilling the 4 bbl lug holes is 15-20 mins and slightly less for the 3 RR pipe holes.
On my Bucks County builds, the web at the breech is only 1/16" thick so accuracy is a must. Have been using this procedure for many years and in truth, have never broken a 1/16 drill or had to do patch up w/ an errant hole. …..Fred
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You guys have sure enlightened me, all these years I have been free handing and later a drill press for pin holes. Yep, you can say I am still in the stone age. I drill both sides of the stock and mark the pin with the bit; then drill the pin separate. Pins are hidden. In the later years I have used close to the Vaino method.
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