Drilling on bolster for nipple placement

[Flint311]

Have been meaning to ask for a long time. A muzzleloading builder and friend of mine passed just over a year ago. The last time I was to his place, he handed me his .54 Leman to change back to percussion so his kids could hunt with it. He converted it to flintlock, just for fun, before passing. Well, he couldn't find the bolster he took from the gun and ordered a new one for me to install, hoping the other would show up. It hasn't.

My question: is there a way to drill and tap for the nipple without buying the guide sleeve and drill bit, etc.?

Hate to get it for one rifle, as I have flintlocks. I have to get this finished for his family. Any help is very much appreciated.
Flint311

 

[Pete G]

Buy the kit and do it right. You certainly wouldn't want to be responsible for injuring one of your friend's kids.

Other (and perhaps better) option is to teach them how to use flint. :wink:

 

[Flint311]

Both very good points! Thank you

 

[Zonie]

The only tool I've seen for drilling the nipple hole is only good for drilling round side mounted drums.
It won't work for drilling the hole in a scroll or snail type breech.

If we are talking about a snail type breech plug, making an accurate layout of the holes location and then using a sharp center punch to mark the location and using a small drill to start the hole is about the only way to drill the hole.

After the small hole is started (about 1/16" deep) it can then serve as the location for the larger tap drill.

The best way to drill the larger hole would be to use a good drill press (or milling machine) and hold the breech plug in a good machinist vise.

Without these things, holding the breech plug in a good vise and getting someone else to watch and advise you about the angle of the drill you could do a pretty good job with a electric hand drill.

 

[don hepler]

I'm a machinist, but I hesitate to do things without the proper equipment. However, now that I am retired, I don't always have access to the machinery. You can locate the spot on the drum, and file a small flat. This will give you a good surface to center punch the drill location. If you had it in a V-block, it would be much easier, but you will need a way to hold it, to make a descent punch. If you have a table top drill press you would have a better chance. Also, need a good vice for the drill press. Get it lined up and using the correct drill and tap, hopefully nothing moves out of position. You need a good round hole, that's in alignment and get the tap alignment straight. If it don't work out, get a new drum and seek help.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
The drilling kit sold by Track is not worth it. The locking screw often moves the drum out of position when you tighten it. I take a machine screw and file the head down using my wood lathe so it fits snugly within the flash cup on the hammer. Then I cut the screw off at a length equal to the nipple height above the drum. After cutting to length, I file the cut end down to a point to create a center punch. I install the drom and hammer, put the center punch into the hammer cup and let the hammer fall against the drum to center punch the hole for the nipple. Then I simply put the drum in a drill press vise so it is level and the punch mark is centered in the vise, and drill with the drill press.

dave

 

[don hepler]

Alright Dave...good idea. :bow: