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I am sweating bullets trying to line up my T.O.W. trade gun musket for the dreaded drilling at an angle from the trigger guard to the tang. I have read all your suggestions. Now I need someone to help me pull the trigger (on the drill that is)!
 
Got a drill press and a vise? It can be done free hand but it's much easier with a vise and a press. I draw the lines on both sides at exactly the angle they need to be, drill halfway through from both sides and hope they meet in the middle. If they're a little off in the middle you can wiggle the bit around in there without enlarging the hole too much. Sure beats finding out you're a 1/4" inch off at the top or bottom where it shows. I don't use pilot holes unless I'm using a drill press and a vise as they tend to pull the bit through uncontrollably.

Dick
 
I prefer to use a drill press. I kinda cheat by first drilling a hole in a scrap of wood that is clamped firmly to the drill press table. I then drill a hole the same size that I want to drill into my project directly into this block. I place a pin that is the same size that the hole is and let it project above the wood. This should be in alignment with the spindle(chuck), do not move it!! Now on this locating pin I place my project on it where I want to have the hole come out. I then line up on the top of my project where I want it to start. I even cheat and drill half way thru and then flip it over and drill from the other side to meet (hopefully!) in the middle. As always try this technique on a non-critial scrap piece first, it will build your confidence.
 
Flashpanner has the best method spotted. This is how most of the experienced builders keep the holes from poping out where they are not wanted.

Works well with the barrel pins too, and those dreaded front lock screws.

:front:
 
This is how I do it. Quick, easy, simple & it works.

Drill a 5/64" hole thru the tang as the appropriate angle, & then thru the triggerplate at appropriate angle where you want the tang bolt to go thru.

Get a large spike or a 5-6" long 1/4" or 5/16" bolt & grind the end to a long point about 3/4" long. Either put it up thru the drill press table & flat washer & nut to retain it, or if using a spike, clamp it in the drill press vice VERY tight so it cannot move & clamp the vice down tight too, bolt/spike point up & bolt vertical, (get it straight with a square) & now align it to your drill bit so they are perfectly aligned to each other. Now back the table down & give clearance for the rifle to go in, now bring the bit down & insure it is still alligned & clamp everything Tight, again checking for allignment when tight.

Put your trigger in & the rear screw in to hold it in place. Put the barrel in the stock & the underlug barrel pins in. Now put the rifle in the drill press with the drill point bolt point inserted into the triggerguard pilot hole. Put the drill over the tang & drill the tang with a large enough drill as is substantial not to flex. Have someone stabilize the muzzle end of the rifle is best, but it can be done alone. Now just drill half way, turn rifle over & set it up the opposite, drill from the trigger guard & bolt point in the tang hole, drill to meet you other hole. Take it all out, change drills to the tap drill size & do this all again. (I usually have a small "C" clamp to insure the trigger stays in & in place)

Now take the bit out & put in clearance drill bit & drill from tang down thru stock all the way down TO (but not hitting) the triggerplate. Take it all out & put the rifle in the vice & take a tap & tap thru the tang into the triggerplate, you may need a lil clamp to hold the triggerplate up as it is important it be in its place. Tap it thru this way & your tang bolt will start easily each time now.

Now remove the tap & take a countersinking bit & make a countersink into the tang bolt hole stopping often to be sure you don't go too deep. I usually do this with a varible speed hand drill as I can control the cut much easier.

Now put in the tang bolt & snug it up, then turn the rifle over & cut off the bolt end & file it flush with the triggerplate.

That is pretty much how I do it. Probably 49 dif ways of doing it, but I know this works & takes allot guessing out of the work. Note: This is also basically how I drill the holes for the lockplate screw holes to insure the holes go where I want them thru the sideplate & lockplate, and tap them thrun the stock for sure alignment)

CheckingDrillpoint.jpg


DrillingTang.jpg


:results:
 
Check out the fixture shown by Peter Alexander in "Gunsmith of Grenville County". It's very similar to some of the other posts in reply to your question and Pete's explanation makes it very clear. I haven't tried it yet but that's the way I plan to go. Good luck, and like someone else suggested, practice on something else first to get your confidence up.
 
Got er dun.
Thanks for all your help. I used the vise and drill press. Took me awhile to get the table set up for the proper angle. The bit did walk a smidgen when i drilled, but it turned out ok. I tapped the hole. The screw went right in, but it looks like I'm gonna need a longer screw shank.

Again thanks for everybody's help. :peace:
 
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