Drum for Douglas Barrel

[nw_hunter]

I recently bought a 54 Cal ML with a GR Douglas 54 cal barrel. When shooting it the other day,the clean out screw popped out. (Spewed like a roman candle) LOL! Looks like the threads are toast. Anyone know,the thread size of drum I need to order for that barrel?

I even thought about welding a screw in place. I don't really care for clean out screws anyway.

 

[Rifleman1776]

What kind of rifle are you talking about?
A barrel is a barrel. They don't have clean out screws unless installed. More likely the screw on your drum or snail came out. What you describe could have been a serious situation if someone had been standing next to you.
hotoSmile:

 

[mooman76]

Retap it and put a new screw in. It's not really needed so you could weld/braze it shut like you said.

 

[Snakebite]

You'd probably need to remove the drum to find out what size threads. I would think it would be fairly standard.

If it were me, I'd replace the whole drum. TOW has them and they are pretty cheap.

 

[David W.]

I agree. If it's a Douglas barrel, it should have standard ANSI threads. It will most likely be 5/16-18, or 3/8-16. If you're going to replace it, get course threads, not fine thread.

When you have the new drum installed, make sure the nipple aligns properly with the hammer.
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/list/Item.aspx/809/1 http://www.trackofthewolf.com/list/Item.aspx/810/1

You'd probably need to remove the drum to find out what size threads. I would think it would be fairly standard.

If it were me, I'd replace the whole drum. TOW has them and they are pretty cheap.

 

[Stubert]

Do like Mooman76 said, re-tap to the next size.

 

[bpd303]

Re-tapping for a new clean out screw would be the simplest solution. Been there done that.

 

[don hepler]

Are the treads in the barrel toast? Or, are the threads on the drum toast?

Or, are you talking about the small clean-out screw in the drum, being toast?

I need better clarification, before I can offer a suggestion.

 

[Shine]

If its a CVA mountain rifle and its an early one. Track does not carry a replacement drum for it. It was redesigned after further production they have that one. re tap it and put in a bigger one.

 

[David W.]

Did CVA ever have Douglas barrels? If it currently has metric threads, drill and tap the barrel to the next biggest ANSI thread available from TOW.

I agree on tapping the clean out screw as being the easiest.

If its a CVA mountain rifle and its an early one. Track does not carry a replacement drum for it. It was redesigned after further production they have that one. re tap it and put in a bigger one.

 

[Shine]

The early mountain rifles, ones that say made in usa. I belive the barrels were douglas.

 

[ohio ramrod]

This is an age old question! The original prototype had a Douglas barrel and a few of the first may have. Others MAY HAVE Sharon barrels. I say may have because records were lost and there is much debate about who actually did make their Made in U.S.A. barrels for the production run.One thing almost all agree upon is that who ever made them they were a GREAT barrel.

 

[Shine]

Definitely, they punched way above their weight class.

 

[curator]

Should you decide to replace the drum, you need to get the Track of the Wolf drum-kit. It has drums with the correct thread but the nipple hole is not drilled. That way you can install the drum tight against the barrel and then drill and tap the nipple mortise. Best way to replace drums. Otherwise simply drill and tap the clean out screw to the next size larger.

 

[stude 283]

Why would you recommend course threads instead of fine?

 

[nw_hunter]

Not sure re taping it will work as I can only get a couple of turns before it stops the nipple from seating. It extends to far into the drum! I think I'll just weld the clean out solid. The clean out screw was not original when I bought the rifle. Stainless screw.

Someone made this rifle using a Douglas barrel. The workmanship is not the greatest, good enough and it is a great shooter.Thanks for the comments and advice fellas! http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r148/logger_b/customdouglass2_zpsaf3b5599.jpg[/IMG][/url]

This is not a CVA

 

[don hepler]

Link to Photo Bucket didn't work. But I'm with you now, on the problem. I'd drill and tap to next size thread, even if I had to go metric. You can always use an oval head screw, and grind the threads off, until you get the length, that won't interfere with the nipple. Is it a round drum, or snail?

 

[necchi]

I think I'll just weld the clean out solid.

Bingo!
That'll work just fine. Just take care to avoid spatter, and keep it clean looking. Dress the spot with a file a bit.

 

[Dphar]

Retap it and put a new screw in. It's not really needed so you could weld/braze it shut like you said.

Welding on modern steels is just as silly as welding old steels where barrels or other pressure containing parts are concerned.
My question in all this would concern the threads in the BARREL. Good chance they are little better than those on the cleanout screw. Needs to be inspected and repaired by someone who knows and understands MLs.
Things such as this is why I don't make drum and nipple guns. If they are percussion they are patent breeched they are far less likely to shed parts when fired.
Dan

 

[M. De Land]

I'd re-tap one size larger to make sure of fresh steel and tight threads.
Welding on anything pressure related on gun barrels is poor practice because welds leave heat risers in the steel that weaken it at or near the weld. Mike D.