Dulling Fire Starting Flints

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theDuck

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I am making 'C' shaped fire starting steel strikers. They are from truck leaf spring steel that I forge and water quench when it cools to the point of turning magnetic. They dull flint or jasper quickly. They make lots of sparks on a sharp edge but the edges dull after about 10 strikes on the same edge.I can see the edge staring to round after the first strike.
My question is how quick do fire starting flints dull if the steel is right? After 10 strikes in the same spot? 20? I have tried annealling in the oven at 450 degrees or straw colour but it still doesn't make a difference except the striker produces fewer sparks. Suggestions for softening. I don't run into flint in this area so try and make it last.
 
Flints vary from piece to piece. What you are experiencing is not abnormal. What you are after is maximum sparks. Reharden your striker and just expect to replace your flint when it is no longer usable.
 
They " Dull " their edges because the human hand is made of bones wrapped in living tissue, and the tissue acts a " shock absorber" when the flints strikes steel. You are gouging steel bits out of that hardened steel C striker, and that takes a lot of force. Try using much larger pieces of flint, so that you can hold them with the entire fist, rather than just your fingers, as most people do. Always put the striker down against something so it doesn't move very much away from the blow of the flint. You get better sparks, more of them, and you can better control where they fly. The edges of the large preform of flint will flake off reasonably sharp, if you are doing everything correctly. If not you may have to hammer a new edge on the flint preform.
 
You have to view the flint as a "consumable supply". The edges just dull in use.

What you are doing is using a sharp edge on the flint to dig/chip out little bits of the steel striker. The energy put in to digging/chipping out those small bits of steel heats them up to the point that the carbon in the steel burns - that's the sparks you see. The harder the steel is, the easier it is to dig/chip out small bits of the steel. The softer the steel is, the larger the bits of steel are and the harder it is to chip them out. Larger bits of steel means it is harder to get them hot enough for the carbon to burn. Also, the softer your steel is, the more it will "grab" your flint. The steel will want to dig out in bigger chunks and/or shavings - instead of crumbling/chipping out in small bits.

So it all ends up being a balancing trick when you heat-treat a striker. The harder you heat-treat it, the easier it is to chip out smaller bits of steel and get better sparks. But that makes the whole steel much more brittle, and subject to breaking. The softer you heat-treat your striker, or temper it back, the less brittle it is. But that makes it much harder to strike good sparks. Your flint wants to dig in too much, and chip out chunks of steel too large to burn well. As I said, a tricky balancing act to heat-treat correctly. The best sparks come from a striker heat-treated very hard. But that makes it more brittle and subject to breakage.

In my experience, a too-soft striker tends to chew up the flint edges faster. The steel tends to "grab" the flint more, and the flint tends to dig in farther. All this just puts more pressure and wear on the flint's sharp edges.

Using a larger chunk of flint does help some people. That larger chunk offers more internal support for the edges on it. But, in the end, the flint just gets "consumed" - however long or short of time it takes.

A well documented source of flint to use is gun flints. They were often shipped/sold together. They work just as well as larger chards - once you get adjusted to using them. And gun flints are available from many sources.

Just my humble thoughts to share. Take them as such.

yhs
Mike Ameling
 
Thanks folks. I'll live with the consumable flint.
One other thing. I have used transmission oil to quench but found it a pain to clean the strikers after. That is why I switched to water quench. Is there any way of cleaning the oil off easily after quenching? I've used solvents and grinding and still my hand gets black dirt on it.
 
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