Dying and treating braintan?

[BillinOregon]

I have some lovely Texas whitetail braintan that I got from our very own Micanopy on this site, and was considering making a small shooting bag with it. It's rather thin, and I was wondering how it would react to dying and waxing. Anyone have experience or dye suggestions?
Very best,
Bill

 

[John Wasmuth]

The only way I have ever changed the color in brain tan is to smoke them. I'm not sure what type of dye to use. I was told once that you can mink oil them but dont know for sure. Be interesting to see what happens.

Just to add that since the process is all water soluble a water based dye, such as rit, should work. Remember yer gona have to work the skin soft again while its dryin.

 

[LaBonte]

Traditionally walnut dye was used in some areas. In other areas various berries and other veg based dyes were used. In the west powdered earth pigments such as red and yellow ochre were used as well, although these were more "painted" on.

Non-Traditionally:
1- strong coffee works - French Roast brewed strong
2- so does RIT

As noted most often you will need to re-soften after dying especially with the tannin based dyes such as walnut or coffee, but no big deal - just cable it or work over the edge of a board.

this bag was walnut (or maybe coffee/)dyed:

Afterwards I applied a couple of LIGHT coats of home made dubbin - a mix of tallow, neats foot or olive oil, and beeswax with a smidgeon of pine pitch added for that nice scent.

 

[necchi]

Oh ya, Walnut stain,,used alot, it's actually rendered from the husk of the walnut'

Braintan/Walnut stain are almost synonamous words around here.
Because it's water base and the hide gets wet, you have to work it soft again but it works, it does get soft again.
Neats footoil or any oil based leather conditioner/sealer will darken brain tan.

 

[John Wasmuth]

Last time I mentioned walnut dye on this forum I was chastized by every arm chair wantabe historian that frequents here, historically correct, it sure is, unless yer a new age college student.

 

[Sunkmanitu Tanka]

There is yet another method of applying earth pigment colors... I used it several times and it works very well.
Take a tub with luke warm water and put the pigment in it. Now you have colored water. Put your deerskin in it and saturate the sking with the colored water. Wring out ... if colour is to light repeat the whole afair untill the colour is to you liking. The pigment is taken into the pores of the hide and is taken in permanently. Let dry and soften the hide by wringing and massaging it. You can first give it a try on a small scrap of leftovers to see if you like the result... :thumbsup:

 

[BillinOregon]

Many thanks for all the suggestions. La Bonte, that is a very lovely shooting pouch and horn!

 

[hawk]

nice colour :thumbsup:

 

[saber]

one e-bay look for powdered leather dye there are some earth dyes on there like was used in the west on ;egging and war shirts but smokeing is best and the only way to go nothing like the smell of smoked leather we get a lot of smoked moose hides around here

 

[BillinOregon]

I stopped at the nearest black walnut and unashamedly gathered a bucket of nuts to make dye with.
La Bonte: How did you make that "dubbin" you mentioned? In a double boiler? I can't figure how you got pine pitch to blend, but I love the idea.

 

[necchi]

Make'n the die; http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...008/post/738253/hl/Walnut+stain/fromsearch/1/

a good source of pine pitch is "brewer's pitch" already cleaned.

 

[LaBonte]

I stopped at the nearest black walnut and unashamedly gathered a bucket of nuts to make dye with.
La Bonte: How did you make that "dubbin" you mentioned? In a double boiler? I can't figure how you got pine pitch to blend, but I love the idea.

A double boiler will work or I use and old crock pot since there is no direct heat source.
As to blending it all in just heat all three together - my mix varies but it's generally about 50% tallow (or pure lard if I don't have any tallow), 20-25% beeswax, 5% pitch - I collect my own but the Brewer's Pitch from James Townsend is a good source, and the balance oil. After it's cooled down and if it's a bit too stiff I add more oil - I like it to be a bit thick but not stiff or runny - about like Go Jo hand cleaner is good......adjust the mix as need be...you can also warm it when using it
....or you can just buy Montana Pitchblend.

 

[BillinOregon]

Hard lesson learned, as in rock hard: Don't dip braintan in near-boiling walnut dye unless you want to patch the roof with the resulting piece of stiff board that had been supple leather just hours earlier ...

 

[John Wasmuth]

Uh oh. Anything over 140 will toast brain tanned hides, and leather in general does not respond well to heat. I'm sorry to hear this.

 

[dyemaker]

I have no experience with this but have a link that may be useful. It was passed along to me here so I am giving it back again... Link

Hope it is acceptable. I don't mean to make waves with any of my postings.

 

[BillinOregon]

Dyemaker: I have their book. They are located about an hour from me here in Southern Oregon. Good folks.