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Euro Arms New Model Army .44

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ex313

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Picked this pistol up in pretty good condition. Had to clean up the front of the cylinder as it had a burr that was preventing smooth rotation once is got any powder residue on it. Gun shoots well now. The ram rod assembly is loose (left to right), Any way to tighten this up?
I understand that Euro Arms is not making these anymore, any resources for parts or information? As of now I don't need anything for it - just wonder if I run into an issue in the future - will I be able to repair it?

Thanks !
new_model_army.jpg
 
looks good!

what is your shooting load recipe?
i.e. how many grains of which powder, which diameter lead round ball, lubed wad or grease, which size caps fit your cones?
 
Am wondering if Uberti parts might fit, if they do you're in luck. Taylors and Company has parts for Uberti revolvers.

Picked this pistol up in pretty good condition. Had to clean up the front of the cylinder as it had a burr that was preventing smooth rotation once is got any powder residue on it. Gun shoots well now. The ram rod assembly is loose (left to right), Any way to tighten this up?
I understand that Euro Arms is not making these anymore, any resources for parts or information? As of now I don't need anything for it - just wonder if I run into an issue in the future - will I be able to repair it?

Thanks !
View attachment 76179
 
I would venture Uberti parts, or any for that matter, would require fitting...

there is a company in England which sells spare Euroarms parts, so it may be wise to stock up now...
 
You won't find any parts available in the US at all. Yes you can repair it using parts from other manufacturers but thy will have to be fitted. I have a
Euroarms with a Pietta hammer. It had to be narrowed to fit the frame (belt sander) and of course the trigger and full cock notch needed a little adjustment. The hand also needed a little adjustment too. I have another that needs a hammer and I'll be using Pietta parts again including the hand. I may swap the trigger and possibly the trigger spring too as it looks like it'll simplify the instillation.
 
looks good!

what is your shooting load recipe?
i.e. how many grains of which powder, which diameter lead round ball, lubed wad or grease, which size caps fit your cones?
.451 balls, lubed wad and the spout I used is advertised at 30gr, but in posts I read it is more like 27 gr. I have #11 caps that seem to be working well.
 
What is the date code of your revolver?

I have a similar revolver manufactured by Armi San Paolo date code AH/1981 imported by Dixie Gun Works. The manufacturer mark DGG in a circle is found on the underside of the barrel hidden by the load lever, and the number 113 is an assembly number, also found on the gripframe and on the underside of the wood grips. Euroarms bought out ASP sometime in the 1990's I believe, to include all of the tooling. If you can find ASP parts (no longer manufactured) somewhere those would most probably work with little or no fitting. I very seldom shoot mine for that reason and shoot my newer revolvers (mostly Pietta 1851 Navy .36 guns) that I know I can find parts for.

The older Remington .44 NMA revolvers made by ASP/Euroarms and a few other obscure/minor Italian manufacturers (all made prior to modern CNC machining) are similar in that they show little to no barrel threads, unlike the more modern Remington 1858 revolvers from Uberti and Pietta, and are sometimes likened to the Remington Beals revolver. The Remington Beals had a much different load lever "flag" however, among other minor differences.

Good luck in your quest for parts sources!

Rem Beals DGG ASP 001.jpg

Rem Beals DGG ASP 008.jpg
Rem Beals DGG ASP 010.jpg
Rem Beals DGG ASP 012.jpg


Regards,

Jim
 
The reason that Remington doesn't show the barrel threads like the New Model Army is because that pistol is not a New Model Army.

It a reproduction of the Remington 1861 Army Revolver, often called the "Old Model Army" in it's late stage of production.
This pistol used the original Remington-Beals frame which did not have exposed threads at the rear of the barrel.
The early production of the 1861 Army did not have the safety notches at the rear of the cylinder and it used an odd loading lever with the top relieved to allow removal of the cylinder without dropping the loading lever.

Shooting tests conducted by the Army found several faults with the Old Model Army. One was because the cylinder pin could be removed without dropping the loading lever, often the pin would work itself free and allow the cylinder to fall out.
Another fault was there was no way to safely carry the pistol with all 6 chambers loaded.
Last but not least, There was nothing to scrape the face of the cylinder to remove fouling. This would cause the gun to jam up making it inoperative.

To address these issues, Remington replaced the loading lever with its cut away area with the earlier Beals style. They added safety notches to the rear of the cylinder so the hammer nose could engage them to make the gun safe to carry with a fully loaded cylinder and they enlarged the area where the cylinder is to expose the barrel threads. By exposing the barrel threads, the sharp edges scrape away the fouling on the front of the cylinder.

Remington called the redesigned gun a "Remington New Model Army" revolver.
 
The reason that Remington doesn't show the barrel threads like the New Model Army is because that pistol is not a New Model Army.

It a reproduction of the Remington 1861 Army Revolver, often called the "Old Model Army" in it's late stage of production.
This pistol used the original Remington-Beals frame which did not have exposed threads at the rear of the barrel.
The early production of the 1861 Army did not have the safety notches at the rear of the cylinder and it used an odd loading lever with the top relieved to allow removal of the cylinder without dropping the loading lever.

Shooting tests conducted by the Army found several faults with the Old Model Army. One was because the cylinder pin could be removed without dropping the loading lever, often the pin would work itself free and allow the cylinder to fall out.
Another fault was there was no way to safely carry the pistol with all 6 chambers loaded.
Last but not least, There was nothing to scrape the face of the cylinder to remove fouling. This would cause the gun to jam up making it inoperative.

To address these issues, Remington replaced the loading lever with its cut away area with the earlier Beals style. They added safety notches to the rear of the cylinder so the hammer nose could engage them to make the gun safe to carry with a fully loaded cylinder and they enlarged the area where the cylinder is to expose the barrel threads. By exposing the barrel threads, the sharp edges scrape away the fouling on the front of the cylinder.

Remington called the redesigned gun a "Remington New Model Army" revolver.

thank you, that is very informative and enlightening
 
euroarms_1.jpg

euroarms_2.jpg
euroarms_3.jpg


Here are pictures of all the markings on the pistol. Is it normal for the loading/ram rod on these to flop around a bit? Anything to be done to tighten it up a bit ?
 
Is it normal for the loading/ram rod on these to flop around a bit? Anything to be done to tighten it up a bit ?

There may be a date code mark hidden under the wide head of the cylinder pin

The lever travel's not normal - but fixable, if you're a little handy.

Drive out the lever's pivot pin in the frame, cut/make two BCS' (Beer Can Shims) with a hole drilled in the center to allow the pin to be re-installed.

If you make the shim OD small enough that it'll be invisible after installation, try one shim - if it's still loose, add the 2nd shim on the opposite side of the lever pivot point from the 1st shim.

If the shim edge(s) still show, camo with a black Sharpie...…….
 
There may be more markings under the cylinder pin which looks like someone drove back in (totally unnecessary) with a hammer. There are also marks on the frame behind the pin where it seems someone used a punch or screwdriver to drive it out. Date code CB=2007.
 
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