Sets of lock castings bring all sorts of unexpected challenges because they copy originals, without considering whether the lock as it is cast will work well in a variety of situations. In this case, after assembling my new build I found the sear arm was short enough that it did not pass beyond the trigger plate. Not sure why I hadn’t noticed that. Seemed to work during the build but maybe just barely.
So I made a lap joint extension with a piece of 1080 steel, pinned with a 1/16” rivet, wrapped it tight with tie wire, and brazed it using propane torch and a brick cubby. I figured this might be suitable for a period repair. There was not enough extra material to draw it out, and welding something this tiny in a forge seems risky. I wait till the braze has run, then file and polish it. Then I re-harden and quench without worrying about the braze joint, as the hardening temp is less than braze flow heat. Then I temper to 450 in sand-filled can for an hour. You can see the rivet and braze joint after cleanup, hardening, and quench better.
So I made a lap joint extension with a piece of 1080 steel, pinned with a 1/16” rivet, wrapped it tight with tie wire, and brazed it using propane torch and a brick cubby. I figured this might be suitable for a period repair. There was not enough extra material to draw it out, and welding something this tiny in a forge seems risky. I wait till the braze has run, then file and polish it. Then I re-harden and quench without worrying about the braze joint, as the hardening temp is less than braze flow heat. Then I temper to 450 in sand-filled can for an hour. You can see the rivet and braze joint after cleanup, hardening, and quench better.