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Ferric Nitrate Crystals

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Old40Rod

45 Cal.
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I just purchased some ferric nitrate crystals to stain a maple stock... can someone walk me through the procedure, including the mix? Mix the crystals with water or alcohol? Thanks.
 
I believe you can mix with either. It dissolves better in water, but water can really bring out the whiskers. Personally I would try the alcohol first. Try a small batch on some scraps.
 
Instructions on the site I purchased from indicated it was soluable in water or alcohol... I'm just not sure what folks on the forum who use ferric nitrate crystals use. Also I'm a little unclear about the mix ratio, i.e., crystals to solvent.
 
I use a 1-to-2.5 ratio, by volume (FeNO3:EtOH).
apply with a maroon scotchbrite, rubbed in generously & briskly.
1st photo: raw stock.
2nd: wet FeNO3/EtOH mix
3rd: dry FeNO3/EtOH
4th: blushed with heat gun.
stocktrtseries.jpg
 
Meteorman,
Just wondering if in pics 5 and 6 you did any more, or just let the color develop? Looks great, BTW, love the red color.
Ed
 
5th pic: overcoat of Fiebings dark brown leather dye.
6th pic: overcoat of cherry and hickory Behlen's Solar Lux mix.
 
I've tried both water and denatured alcohol. I got the best color (to my eyes) with alcohol.
 
I'm going to try w/denatured alcohol to avoid raising the grain to the extent possible.

As far as neutralizing... is it necessary? If so, is baking soda adequate?
 
Remember, even if you plan on using an alcohol based solution you MUST whisker the stock several times using water before applying it.

If you don't, even the alcohol will raise the whiskers a little and any water based neutralizer will raise them a lot.
 
Old40Rod said:
I'm going to try w/denatured alcohol to avoid raising the grain to the extent possible.

As far as neutralizing... is it necessary? If so, is baking soda adequate?

I can't remember if it necessary or not, but I have. Just used baking soda. I did notice that if I didn't get good coverage with the soda, the color was different for some reason. :idunno: I have a spot on my rifle that is slightly off with definate lines where I didn't get good coverage. :idunno:
 
No, neutralizing isn't necessary as ferric nitrate is neither an acid, nor a base.
 
Thanks, I thought as much based on the chemistry of the mix, but I wasn't sure if the chemistry of the wood somehow made it necessary.
 
bioprof said:
No, neutralizing isn't necessary as ferric nitrate is neither an acid, nor a base.
While that may be chemically true if you don't neutralize a stock stained with Aqua Fortis (such as Wahkon Bay) or the crystals (both are essentially the same although the WB also has muriatic acid as part of it's original component) then there is a VERY good chance the stock will continue to darken over time especially in sunlight ie UV Rays.......
That observation is based on using FC/AF (both homemade and the commercially available crystals) for over 40 years - so while the science may say otherwise actual use says differently.....

And nope Baking soda is usually not sufficient - washing soda or ammonia are the best......BTW - the mix can also be used to brown/blue iron or steel and again it needs to be neutralized.........
 
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