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Finally "finished" my Traditions Kentucky kit.

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RobertIN

West Harrison, Indiana
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I put "finished" in quotations because I want to smooth out the stock by the tang, can shave down another 1/8" off the top and I want to replace the tennon pins with brass or put brass tacks in to cover the holes/prevent the pins from coming out.

Overall I'm thrilled. Barrel browning isn't perfect, stock finish isn't perfect, but I learned a lot and had fun with it. Excited to get some flints to give it a go.
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You don't have to worry about the barrel pins coming out. And I would avoid the temptation to use brass tacks.
One of them is almost loosely sliding in there. I might take the advice of somebody over on reddit and just smear some beeswax into the holes for peace of mind.
 
@Rlosekamp, there is no compelling reason to replace the pins with brass pins. Using the bee's wax on the pins will give the pins just enough hold to keep the pins in place. I also agree with @rafterob that the change to brass tacks is not needed. The only thing I see that might require change is the flats around the lock plate are too wide and should be reduced to about 1/4" to 3/16". You have done a nice job of assembling and finishing the wood color on your rifle. You should be ready to take the rifle out to see how it performs.
 
@Rlosekamp, there is no compelling reason to replace the pins with brass pins. Using the bee's wax on the pins will give the pins just enough hold to keep the pins in place. I also agree with @rafterob that the change to brass tacks is not needed. The only thing I see that might require change is the flats around the lock plate are too wide and should be reduced to about 1/4" to 3/16". You have done a nice job of assembling and finishing the wood color on your rifle. You should be ready to take the rifle out to see how it performs.
I thought the brass pins might be pretty, if not a bit unconventional that was the only reason for considering it. I'm leaning towards the beeswax now, wouldn't hurt to have a little tin of it around for other projects anyway.

I'll add the modifications to the flats to my list of future modifications I want to do to the stock to pretty it up and slim her down a bit. I would have taken more time on the wood but I'm keen to take advantage of muzzle loader season this year so put it together faster than I would have otherwise. I need to be sure I have the sights adjusted and my skills up to par before going into the woods with it. I appreciate your input and compliment! Flints arrive tomorrow I can't wait to see if/how it fires, never shot a flintlock before.
 
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Looks great ! One bit of advice, your rear sight is on backwards. The flat side faces your eye and the dished out side should be on the backside. It's there to reduce glare and gives a crisper sight picture.
 
I put "finished" in quotations because I want to smooth out the stock by the tang, can shave down another 1/8" off the top and I want to replace the tennon pins with brass or put brass tacks in to cover the holes/prevent the pins from coming out.

Overall I'm thrilled. Barrel browning isn't perfect, stock finish isn't perfect, but I learned a lot and had fun with it. Excited to get some flints to give it a go. View attachment 264965View attachment 264966View attachment 264967View attachment 264968
Very nice and what an exciting time, the anticipation of the first shot. Congratulations on the beginning of your journey into the flintlock experience. Most of the hints you’ve been offered are right on target. I’m with the beeswax group for the pins. Usually successive coats of your finish choice will swell the wood somewhat and aid in locking in loose pins. I would not ‘bend’ the loose pin. Doing so increases the chance of splintering the stock around the hole if you ever need to remove the pin.
As you journey down the 1700’s path iI’ll bet this will not be your only flintlock. They do tend to multiply over time!
Best wishes in your travels in time.
Snoot
 
Looks great ! One bit of advice, your rear sight is on backwards. The flat side faces your eye and the dished out side should be on the backside. It's there to reduce glare and gives a crisper sight picture.
Noted! Will get that corrected. Is there are functional resin for that dish to be in there?
 
Very nice and what an exciting time, the anticipation of the first shot. Congratulations on the beginning of your journey into the flintlock experience. Most of the hints you’ve been offered are right on target. I’m with the beeswax group for the pins. Usually successive coats of your finish choice will swell the wood somewhat and aid in locking in loose pins. I would not ‘bend’ the loose pin. Doing so increases the chance of splintering the stock around the hole if you ever need to remove the pin.
As you journey down the 1700’s path iI’ll bet this will not be your only flintlock. They do tend to multiply over time!
Best wishes in your travels in time.
Snoot
Hi Snooter! I'm very much anticipating it, checking for tracking updates on flints on the hour it seems. I already have my eyes on a Kibler kit down the road when money isn't so tight. Thank you for the warm welcome.
 

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