finish quality of revolver cylinder

[motif]

Hi, just bought spare cylinder for my Remington 1858 by Uberti and wonder if poor finish quality of these drills in the bottom of chambers is something to be concerned about? Should I return this or it's normal?

 

[Jim]

Looks OK to me!

 

[LRB]

Hi, just bought spare cylinder for my Remington 1858 by Uberti and wonder if poor finish quality of these drills in the bottom of chambers is something to be concerned about? Should I return this or it's normal?



View attachment 132386

I agree they did a crappy job on those chambers, but I doubt they will send you any better if you exchange it. You might ask around about polishing those bottoms out some.

 

[motif]

thanks guys, so I understand quality of firing is not affected by this. right?

 

[Johnny Tremain]

I measured each bore on the cylinder for the 1860 Army that was given to me.
I was shocked at the fine thirds world craftmanship.
One cylinder is .435, another .449.
Good thing I got a 451 mould.

 

[russellshaffer]

Maybe just stick a drill bit in there and countersink the big burrs off?? Do it by hand of course.

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

What matters is the chamber mouth diameters, or the tops of the chambers where the ball rests before firing. These need to be a consistent diameter, one smaller than the diameter of the typical .451 to .457 round balls on the market. I advice you get some pin gauges or otherwise measure each chamber mouth to ensure they’re consistent. The rough machine does not in itself mean anything and doesn’t look bad, and will not at all lose any safety issues.

 

[Bad Karma]

Notice that the “burr is the same depth in each chamber? I suspect that was caused by a finishing reamer. The important thing is that the chambers should be round and of equal diameter. Uberti usually hits pretty close to .451.

 

[Stantheman86]

I wouldn't worry about it

 

[bang]

I measured each bore on the cylinder for the 1860 Army that was given to me.
I was shocked at the fine thirds world craftmanship.
One cylinder is .435, another .449.
Good thing I got a 451 mould.

Ream them to .449 and use .454.

 

[bang]

Never ram ball that deep.

 

[M. De Land]

Maybe just stick a drill bit in there and countersink the big burrs off?? Do it by hand of course.

Be careful here as depth translates to volume and some of these cylinders (especially with rebated chambers) are critically thin around the nipple area.
The rough spots in the bottom of the chambers look like they may be casting inclusions that the reamer cut into. As stated only the mouth of the chambers need to be reamed the same. Usually ream to groove diameter or .001 over.
These chambers are gang reamed and each reamer has a plus /minus tolerance before it is out of spec from sharpening and is replaced. This is the reason most chambers are different from each other. I always ream the chamber mouths to the one with the largest round hole diameter. It is best done with the barrel removed and a hardened reamer guide threaded into to the barrel hole through the frame which amounts to line boring.
Also a drill will not make a perfectly round hole , they must be reamed or lapped round.

 

[nhmoose]

Never ram ball that deep.

or new thread I dry balled my revolver cylinder. Bet it will make 2 pages anyway.

To the OP that cylinder would go back if I got it new.

 

[Packrat]

Hopefully they are all the same diameter, otherwise ream them so they are all the same

 

[Johnny Tremain]

Ream them to .449 and use .454.

My free gun has already cost me over $100. Im shooting it once just they was it is. I feel lucky

 

[Jim]

“I’m shooting it once just they was it is.” . . . . .HUH???

 

[M. De Land]

Hi, just bought spare cylinder for my Remington 1858 by Uberti and wonder if poor finish quality of these drills in the bottom of chambers is something to be concerned about? Should I return this or it's normal?



View attachment 132386

It looked at first like corrosion but I don't see it any where else on the cylinder which would be odd in my opinion.