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gjr902

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Hello all,

Just bought my first ball/cap revolvers and I have a loading question They are the 1851 Navy 8" and the 5 1/2"Sheriff from Cabelas. Loading with 3f, ball, and lubed wool wads. So is it powder/wad/ball, or powder/ball/wad? I've been told both, and I'm not comfortable using them without a good solid answer. Thanks in advance
 
Welcome to the Forum. :)

Its Powder, wad, ball.

If you load the wad over the ball there is nothing to keep it in place except the slight compression it gets from being shoved into a slightly smaller hole.

The first shot from the gun will have enough side blast that it can easily blow the adjacent chambers wad out of the mouth of the cylinder.

Tucked nicely between the ball and the powder it will stay where it needs to be to lube the bore as it passes out of the gun and to act as a shield for the powder from any small spark that might try to get past the pressed in ball.

Speaking of sparks trying to get into the adjacent chambers, if one does make it it can cause the often mentioned (but rare) "chain fire" where chambers not aligned with the barrel fire.

Although there is still some debate about the causes of a chain fire most shooters agree that a loose or missing percussion cap on a loaded chamber is the most likely cause.

For this reason, it is a good idea to look at the nipples on the unfired chambers after firing each shot.
Sometimes, a loose fitting cap will be jarred loose from the recoil. If this happens the cap can fall off of the nipple opening the door for a chain fire event.

You didn't say whether your new pistols are brass framed or steel framed.

If they are steel framed, you cannot "overload" your guns chambers.
If they are brass framed, it is a good idea to keep the powder loads to the moderate or light side.

It's not that the brass frames are unsafe however they are not as strong as steel.
Heavy powder charges can loosen the cylinder arbor or drive the cylinder back into the frame hard enough to eventually indent the circular ring in the frame right behind the cylinder.
If this happens the cylinder will become loose.
 
Thanks for the detailed info. Both revolvers have the brass frame. The factory recomends no more than 25 grains of 3f for both. The wad in the middle makes perfect sence to me. I couldn't figure out how to keep the wads in front of the ball either. Thats why I asked. Its amazing what kind of answers you get when you ask the counter person questions, who don't use the things they are selling.
 
Yup.
To most counter-persons, it's a job and there is no training by knowledgable persons about muzzleloaders and Cap & Ball pistols.

To us here on the Forum, you will find that rather than being "a job", it is a passion with years of experience.

Many of us have been shooting these guns for over 35 years.
 
Just remember the old axiom: POWDER, PATCH, THEN BALL, OR THIS THING DON'T FIRE AT ALL!!

Just like the rifle, only smaller! The "patch" in this case is the lubed wad, no matter what material it's made out of, including old felt hats :thumbsup: .

Listen to Zonie! He's one of my Mentors! :thumbsup:

Welcome to the forum!

Dave
NRA Expert Muzzleloading Pistol
Club Revolver Champion
 
another welcome to The Forum gjr.
a .38spcl case makes a good 'target load' powder measure of about 20gr 3F.
a .357Mag case makes a good 'warm' load about 25 grs. I shot several brass framed '58's many 100's of shots (maybe as much as over a K) with a .38spcl caseful of 3F, a felt then ball and no apparent wear on them. shot good too.
 
Thanks guys. I'm still bewildered, at the 2 people who told me wad last. I've been shooting PB Rifles for years. It didn't make sence, but the revolver is new to me. Thanks for the 38/357 case idea too.
 
Not wad, but grease if your using the old method of powder, ball, grease.

Grease is what we used before wonder wads. I used to carry my grease in a copper cake decorating syringe in the 70's.

So in review, either:

Powder, wad, ball... then cap (Modern)

or

Powder, ball, and grease... then cap (Old school)

Cheers,

David
 
Make sure when you load the RB that there is a thin lead ring that has shaved of thats also makes
a good seal, in other words the right size ball.
i never did use wads i made my owen lube out of beeswax and crisco,it worked for 15 years for me
and never had a chain fire :thumbsup: .
Boomm.
 

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