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Fitting a GM (T/C) barrel to a Traditions Hawken

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Robert Egler

50 Cal.
Joined
Jul 17, 2007
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I have received my Green Mountain 54 caliber smoothbore barrel to use on my Traditions Hawken. (Thanks again to Round Ball for letting me know of the sale! :hatsoff: )

I know that several other people on the forum were wondering if the Green Mountain replacement barrel would work on the Traditions, so here’s my information.

I have a Traditions “Hawken”, and these replacement barrels are intended for T/C Hawkens, but as far as I know no one makes replacement smoothbore barrels for Traditions guns.

First, the people at Green Mountain were very helpful on the phone, and the barrel looks to be excellently made. :thumbsup:

Both Traditions and T/C have hooked breaches, but the hooks are not quite identical. In order to get the GM barrel to fit my Traditions it was necessary to slightly modify the hook. (NOT the breach plug itself, before anyone has a tizzy fit about that. :wink: )

The Traditions hook is flat on the bottom, hitting the breach plug about 1/8 inch or so up from the bottom, while the GM hook continues all the way straight to the bottom of the breach plug. I filed the bottom of the GM hook to make it fit, was a trivial job, only took a couple minutes.

It was also necessary to take about 1/16 of an inch of wood off under the back of the tang, since the GM hook is very slightly longer. Again a couple minutes work with a fine chisel, no biggy.

A bigger issue is that the under barrel lug that holds the barrel onto the stock is not in the same location on the GM as on the Traditions. So you have two choices, you can either cut a new set of slots for a new retaining pin, or you can move the under barrel lug to where it fits the Traditions stock. The lug is held to the barrel by two small screws, not a dovetail like the Traditions, so it should be easier to move. I haven’t made up my mind yet which way I’m going. I’d like to move the lug, but that requires drilling and tapping 2 holes in the barrel bottom only 3/16 inch deep. Drilling the holes is no problem, but I’m not sure how to get threads into a hole that shallow. :hmm: I’m still thinking about that, have a couple ideas that I’ll try on some scrap metal first. Any suggestions from those with more metal working experience than me would be welcome!

Cutting another set of slots would be a lot easier, and then you have what appears to be 2 barrel retaining pins rather than one, which is common on guns of the era this is intended to represent. But then you will always have 1 non-functional pin, depending on which barrel you use, the Traditions barrel or the GM.

Another bigger issue is that the touch hole on the GM barrel does not align exactly with the position of the touch hole on the Traditions barrel. The GM touch hole is about 3/32 of an inch farther forward. This places it at the very front of the pan rather than in the center. I’ll have to wait until I can shoot the gun to find out if that has any significant effect on the prime igniting the main charge. Hopefully it won’t, it’s only 3/32 of an inch, but I’ll have to see.

A purely cosmetic issue is that the underbarrel rib stops 1/2 inch short of the forestock, leaving a very noticeable gap that looks a bit odd. I’m still working on that one. :hmm:

A very minor issue is that the front sight has a small brass bead on the back of the top. Some folks may like this, but I don’t. That’s getting filed flat and painted black.

The tubes for the ramrod are painted black. I don’t know what they’re made from, I’ll look at that tonight. As far as I’m concerned if they are steel or brass under the paint I’ll strip them and go with the bare metal, but if they’re aluminum I’ll leave them painted.

As someone else mentioned in a different post, the ramrod is too long. It doesn’t matter to me, because I made a replacement ramrod out of brass tubing with solid brass rods in the ends anyway.

And lastly, the GM barrel is 4 inches longer than the Traditions barrel, so depending on your guncase you may have to get another one. Mine is made of tooling leather and when I made it I made it extra long, luckily just long enough to fit the new barrel on the gun!

So what’s my final opinion? I like the barrel, and while it requires some work to fit it to the Traditions stock I think I’ll be happy with it in the end. I’ll know for sure when I start patterning it this weekend! :thumbsup:

Oh Yeah! I should also mention that making modifictaions to the barrel voids the GM warrenty, but if you are going to use the barrel on a Traditions gun you're going to have to modify either the stock or the barrel. Just be aware of this before you start any work.
 
Up front I will say I don't know the barrels but is it possible to staple a lug to be barrel and not have to thread holes. It might be easier.
Fox :thumbsup:
 
Your warrenty may already be shot by modifying your breech plug hook. You may be able to set the tang further to the rear. This would put your touch hole more in line with your pan. It would also decrease the gap between the rib and your fore end tip. Take your under barrel lug and mark the new location in line with your barrel key. Have it silver soldered. Contact the folks at the Gun Works http://www.thegunworks.com/ . They told me that they have metal sights that fits the Traditions. Just a thought.
 
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Yes, I assumed that the warrantee was already shot when I modified the hook. It was modify the hook, modify the tang, or don’t use the barrel.

Since I intend to switch between the original Traditions 50 cal barrel and the GM smoothbore barrel, modifying the tang wouldn’t work. That’s also my concern with moving the tang back, which would, as you say, help with the touch hole alignment, but then the touch hole for the Traditions barrel would not align. Moving the tang wouldn’t help the underbarrel rib meeting the forestock very much though, I’d only move the tang back 3/32”, but the gap between the forestock and the underbarrel rib is just a hair over 1/2”.

If it turns out that the gun won’t fire reliably with the touch hole where it is, I’ll have to make a choice which barrel I want on permanently. Then if I choose the smoothbore, which is likely, I could move the tang back. But I’d rather be able to switch barrels if possible.
 
silverfox said:
Up front I will say I don't know the barrels but is it possible to staple a lug to be barrel and not have to thread holes. It might be easier.
Fox :thumbsup:

Could you explain what you mean by staple? I'm not familiar with this.
:confused:
- SqrlTl
 
Pardon my butting in here....you can get staples and the setting tool from TOTW. What they are is a staple looking affair and you drill 2 shallow holes in the barrel using the template, then stake the staple in place using a punch that upsets the metal a bit and securely holds the staple (underlug) in place. It should be easy enough to locate the right place by measuring from the back of the breechplug to the underlug. It isn't that hard to drill and tap the holes for the screw mounted underlug. You can grind some of the sharp point off a tap and use that to get the tapped hole started, then grind the end of the tap so it only has a slight taper (similar to a bottoming tap) and finish tapping the hole. I keep a set of modified taps in 6-32, 8-32 and 10-32 for these kind of jobs. Emery
 
Sounds like the kid has a plan! You could also use a Dremel tool and a grinding ball work on the pan. Grind the forward portion slightly then polish the entire pan. Again, just a thought.
 
You can also cut a dovetail for that slot.
I have always found dovetails are eaiser then staples.. JMHO.
Mike Brooks has a wonderfull toutorial on the technique.
worce comes to worce, once you have the dovetail cut and it's a little loose,, no big deal, use a punch and then some silver solder.
It will not come loose after that.
 
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I am assuming (yeah I know) that the wedge lug is the same on the TC SB Barrel I got from GM.

If so, it sets flat on the flat (redundant hey) where screwed on. Me, I would just remove the screws, locate it in the correct position, sand off blueing on lug and barrel to bare metal, clean throughly and solder in place. The lug bottom flats would provide a good surface area for holding power.

Soldered lugs on round barrels are common, I have three of the pin lugs on my 46 " barrel fusil de chasse I soldered on with low temp silver solder, (mostly tin) no problem over the years.
 
Thanks to everyone for their suggestions! :bow:

Yes, the lug is screwed on. I think that the silver solder idea is what I'll do. I'll have to practice a bit, I use regular lead solder a lot, but I've only silver soldered a couple of times, with mixed results.
 
Squirrel Tail said:
Thanks to everyone for their suggestions! :bow:

Yes, the lug is screwed on. I think that the silver solder idea is what I'll do. I'll have to practice a bit, I use regular lead solder a lot, but I've only silver soldered a couple of times, with mixed results.

Don't confuse high temp silver soldering with the low temp, night and day. Unlike regular high temp silver solder, you do not need the high heat source.

Low temp silver solder heat requirement is no different than 50/50 (tin/lead) as for applying. I would not hesitate to use any of the high tin, low lead solders for same application. In any case, I would definitely tin both areas first.

Here is an old Geometer article on soldering.
http://www.neme-s.org/Model_Engineer_Files/2836-Soft Soldering.pdf
 
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Ok, here's what I've done. First I decided that I am not actually likely to be switching barrels back and forth, but will probably just use the 54 smoothbore permanently. So I set the tang back about 1/8 inch, which puts the touch hole just about in the center of the pan (it’s just a teeny bit forward of center, maybe 1/32” , but I’ll live with it.)

I was unable to tin the lug, it just wouldn’t take solder. From its weight I think it might be aluminum, but I didn’t test it with a magnet, so I’m not sure, just a speculation.

In any case it proved impossible to solder (for me at least) so I devised another method. I very carefully drilled 2 holes where the screws would need to be, exactly the same depth as the original screw holes where the lug was originally located. These were way to shallow for me to thread. I then took a dremel tool with a very small spherical cutting tip and undercut the bottom of the hole, about 3/64 inch. I placed the lug in position, the put 1/8 inch brass pins into each hole, and set them with a hammer (see picture), which should have expanding the brass into the undercuts (that’s my theory anyway).
attach method.jpg


First I tried this on another piece of steel with a steel bar the same thickness as the lug end. I was unable to get the top bar back off by hand, and since the bar was about a foot long there was a fair amount of leverage acting. Then I tried prying it off with a screwdriver, and couldn’t do that either. I could only get the bar off by continuing to hit the brass until the top part was thin enough that it broke.

I THINK this should hold the lug on, I’m sure others will know better but it seems to me that there is not tremendous pressure trying to separate the lug from the barrel when the gun’s fired so I think it will be ok. I’m going to be shooting a lot tomorrow, and after the first shot, and then every couple of shots, I’ll going to look to see if there seems to be any separation. If it turns out my brilliant idea doesn’t work as well as I think, then since I won’t be using the other barrel I’ll take the lug from that one and cut a dovetail in the new barrel and put that one on. I could have done this now, of course, but it was nerve-wracking enough to drill 2 small holes into a new barrel, I wasn’t about to take a hacksaw to it if I don’t need to!

I also added a small steel bar the same height and width of the underbarrel ramrod rib which I carefully fit to match the rib, and which I heat blued and attached in the same manner to fill the small gap between the end of the rib and the forestock The only reason it’s even noticeable without specifically looking for it is that my heat bluing isn’t the same color as the bluing on the barrel and rib. I’m going to get some chemical blue and see if I can get a better match.

I am very pleased with the overall final product, looks like the barrel was the original one. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. :hatsoff:
 
Thanks for the follow up. Bummer, I never even thought of the lug being aluminum, glad all worked out and a good idea you applied there.
 
Final follow up. I shot the barrel, and it is great! The underbarrel lug seemed work fine, but I decided to change the brass pins for steel, so I drilled out the brass, undercut the hole just a bit more, and used steel pins heated red hot before I instered and hammered them. The end result seems really solid, and I'm more comfortable with steel than with the brass.
 
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