Here we go again. Got my brand spankin new flintlock kit almost done...stock's sanded smooth, nice walnut stain with semi-gloss varnish; barrel's been browned nicely, just need to do final assembly after the browning cures on the barrel. The big Q: does the bevel on the flint go up or down? Or don't it matter none? Does either way put better (or more) sparks in the pan? Should it be clear of the frizzen in half-cock? My powder guy's coming end of month so I'll have some 4F by then. I guess I was just a-wonderin' what the general concensus is on the bevel thing. Thanks. :thumbsup: :RO:
-
Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.
We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.
Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103
Flint question
- Thread starter bdarin
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
As far as bevel up or down, it depends on the gun. Some like it one way, some the other. Try it both ways and see which sparks the best. Normally i use them bevel up. When on half cock the flint shouldn't be touching the frizzen. There should be about 1/16" or so gap. The flint should strike the frizzen about 2/3 of the way up from the bottom.
bdarin.. I too am learning the art of flintlocks right now. Needless to say I have experimented with a number of flints, agates, and bevels up and down. I have a T/C Hawkins .50 caliber.
I was putting the bevel up and would fire until the rifle refused. Then I would try moving the flint forward in the jaws of the hammer a little and this might produce a few more shots. Then I was turning the bevel down and getting a few more shots. After that I would turn the flint around and use the other side and do the same thing over again. Like I said, I am learning also.
I have tried the black english flints with excellent results. Also the T/C agates which I was warned to be wary of produced excellent spark and lasted a long time in my rifle. I actually found them most dependable. Right now I am shooting a amber french flint. This really seems to be throwing a shower of spark and the ignition is as fast as my cap lock most of the time.
All I know is when it comes time to relax and grab a rifle to shoot in the afternoon, I keep walking to the flinter. I have really grown fond of trying to figure out all the things about it. I am sure you're in for a lot of fun just as I am experiencing now.
I was putting the bevel up and would fire until the rifle refused. Then I would try moving the flint forward in the jaws of the hammer a little and this might produce a few more shots. Then I was turning the bevel down and getting a few more shots. After that I would turn the flint around and use the other side and do the same thing over again. Like I said, I am learning also.
I have tried the black english flints with excellent results. Also the T/C agates which I was warned to be wary of produced excellent spark and lasted a long time in my rifle. I actually found them most dependable. Right now I am shooting a amber french flint. This really seems to be throwing a shower of spark and the ignition is as fast as my cap lock most of the time.
All I know is when it comes time to relax and grab a rifle to shoot in the afternoon, I keep walking to the flinter. I have really grown fond of trying to figure out all the things about it. I am sure you're in for a lot of fun just as I am experiencing now.
Guest
Some locks prefer one way, other's, the other way. theer is no right/wrong- whatever works best considering the geometry of your lock. LOTS of sparks don't do much good unless they are IN the pan. Some locks throw more sparks with the flint one way, but if they aren't in the pan, then ignition suffers. Fewer sparks can improve ignition if they are bettwe placed.
: The distance the flint protrudes from the jaws also make a big difference in sparking and how the lock works in general. Many shooters set the flint so it 'just' touches the frizzen at 1/2 cock. This position usually gives the highest strike and longest sweep, but may throw the frizzen out of the way and reduce the total amount of sparks - experimentation is necessary. ONE WAY isn't correct for all locks.
: The distance the flint protrudes from the jaws also make a big difference in sparking and how the lock works in general. Many shooters set the flint so it 'just' touches the frizzen at 1/2 cock. This position usually gives the highest strike and longest sweep, but may throw the frizzen out of the way and reduce the total amount of sparks - experimentation is necessary. ONE WAY isn't correct for all locks.
I tried TC's premium agates and think I mentioned that I didn't think they were good enough to justify their high price compared to Black English Flints...and the added benefit of BEF's is that they're "the real deal"...what the settlers used.
In my TC flintlocks, I use 3/4" black english flints, and due to their length, I start out with the bevel up...gives a nice slightly downward shaving action and very strong, reliable sparks.
(If I start out a new flint with the bevel down, it places the sharp edge up too high on the frizzen and it has minimal downward shaving action.)
Then after using it for the first 15-20 shots with the bevel up as I first mentioned, I then flip it over so the bevel is down, and since it's become shortened just a tad from some use, it's arc will then give it enough downward shaving action that it continues to give strong sparks. I average 40-60 shots per 3/4" black english flint at .70-.75 cents/flint.
The added benefit of flipping it over back and forth every so often seems to actually self-knapp it so you don't have to bother knapping it manually if you don't want to.
October Country gave me good prices buying them in bulk bags
In my TC flintlocks, I use 3/4" black english flints, and due to their length, I start out with the bevel up...gives a nice slightly downward shaving action and very strong, reliable sparks.
(If I start out a new flint with the bevel down, it places the sharp edge up too high on the frizzen and it has minimal downward shaving action.)
Then after using it for the first 15-20 shots with the bevel up as I first mentioned, I then flip it over so the bevel is down, and since it's become shortened just a tad from some use, it's arc will then give it enough downward shaving action that it continues to give strong sparks. I average 40-60 shots per 3/4" black english flint at .70-.75 cents/flint.
The added benefit of flipping it over back and forth every so often seems to actually self-knapp it so you don't have to bother knapping it manually if you don't want to.
October Country gave me good prices buying them in bulk bags
Rebel Yell
32 Cal.
- Joined
- Aug 18, 2004
- Messages
- 5
- Reaction score
- 0
I concur,
Depends on the lock / geometry of the lock.
:results: I find myself placing the flint in the jowels bevel up, seem to work fer me , when the flints dull I'll peck away at it with the spine of my knife in the field ( UNloaded of coarse) at the bench I use a piece of 5/16" brass roundstock with a shoulder filed into it to freshen up a dull flint.
Good luck with your rifle gun . :m2c:
Depends on the lock / geometry of the lock.
:results: I find myself placing the flint in the jowels bevel up, seem to work fer me , when the flints dull I'll peck away at it with the spine of my knife in the field ( UNloaded of coarse) at the bench I use a piece of 5/16" brass roundstock with a shoulder filed into it to freshen up a dull flint.
Good luck with your rifle gun . :m2c:
eace: :thumbsup:Good advice here from Rebel, I will only add that sometimes it varies from flint to flint as well. I normally start with the flint bevel up but sometimes the rifle seems to like a particular flint bevel down. I guess flint locks are a lot like women, only they know what they want and it isn't always the same thing at different times. (betI getin trouble for that comment)
I would like to add that when installing the flint, lower the hammer to the full fired pisition, make sure the flint does not bottom out on the pan, this will break off the edge when it hits...
Did anyone tell you to have your flint sucured in a scrap of leather while in the jaws of the hammer?
This helps the flint from moving about during the shot...
Lastly, I do bevel up...
________
_______/ <--- Like this...
Did anyone tell you to have your flint sucured in a scrap of leather while in the jaws of the hammer?
This helps the flint from moving about during the shot...
Lastly, I do bevel up...
________
_______/ <--- Like this...
robinghewitt
62 Cal.
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2004
- Messages
- 2,605
- Reaction score
- 21
Maybe he's holding the gun upside down ::
And be sure to keep the flint tight in the jaws and square with the frizzen. And SHARP.
Bevel Up
Bevel Down
Bevel Down
