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Flint to Cap conversion

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Walkingeagle

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I’m considering a conversion of my Isaac Haines .50 flint rifle over to cap. It has a Chambers Deluxe Siler lock, and in looking on the Track website I see the same lock is available in percussion, shaped to fit a drum. My initial question is, are these locks usually a direct swap in the mortise (dimensionally)? If so, and I know this is not easily answered due to lots of variables, but with the correct drum screwed into the existing tapped placement for the vent liner, is there any chance it could line right up and “drop in”?
Walk
 
Hope springs eternal... I once did this with a Pedersoli Pennsylvania rifle and it w a direct replacement. I have an opportunity to pick up a Brown Bess and if I do it will almost certainly be converted.
 
Is your vent liner in the middle of the barrel flat? If so I would think there’s a good chance it would work. Probably the only way to know is get a lock and drum and see how it lines up. You probably won’t have to alter anything to determine if it would work so the parts would still be new.
 
Everything appears centered and aligned perfectly in regards to barrel flat as well as lock geometry, so my thoughts are it should work, just curious if anyone has experience enough to say “it should” or “it never does, and always requires at least....” type of answer. Once I order up the lock from Track, it will not be returned as I live in Canada.
Walk
 
If it’s a custom or semi custom gun I don’t think you’re going to get a 100% yes or no. Just make sure the drum is supported in the lock radius cut out. As a direct drop in probably not being the drum will most likely need a 5/16x24 thread and we don’t know what’s in there now and also how close is the touch hole to the breech plug may cause some issues.
 
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Nope, the odds of all that working together AFTER the fact, are slim to none. Conversions can be quite successful if planned out DURING construction.
Not saying it can't be done, but it will be a challenge for sure.
 
Everything appears centered and aligned perfectly in regards to barrel flat as well as lock geometry, so my thoughts are it should work, just curious if anyone has experience enough to say “it should” or “it never does, and always requires at least....” type of answer. Once I order up the lock from Track, it will not be returned as I live in Canada.
Walk

Why not just convert your existing lock? Should not be that big a deal the old timers did it all the time.
 
Why not just convert your existing lock? Should not be that big a deal the old timers did it all the time.
That's what I did with the Siler flintlock on this Tennessee rifle. I converted it to percussion.

It's not that I wanted to do it but the lock was built from a Siler Flintlock kit and when I drilled the hole for the frizzen, the tap drill missed the bridle slightly and broke out the side of it. :( Rather than changing it into a flintlock without a bridle for the frizzen I decided to do what has been done thousands of times back in the day and just convert the lock into a percussion lock and install a drum for the nipple.
Notice, I filed the cradle for the drum into the frizzen rather than cutting it entirely off. I figured it would give the drum better support if I did it this way.
TENN-041A.jpg

The color in the picture isn't right. The lock is not purple. :(
 
Walkingeagle. The track catalog has lifesize pictures. Perhaps order a catalog, make a copy of the lock picture, cut it out and see how it fits.

I think it would work. The only question is how much work you'll need to do. You might have to file the new lock plate or build it up where the drum sits, etc. A perfect drop in would be nice...I only know that my luck would never allow that to happen if it were my project! :)
 
Get a drum with the same thread pitch, and the replacement percussion lock. Screw the drum in, and carefully fit the lock into place with the tang screw loosened. If the drum snugs easily into the lock bolster cut out, you're in business. If it doesn't, perhaps a bit of fitting will be required. If that is not an option, you have an excellent lock and drum for that smoothbore you've been planning for so long. Zonie's example of converting the existing lock is doable if you have the skills, but I myself would not screw up a finely tuned Chambers quality flintlock for that type of conversion. I'd save the flintlock for a nice fowler and fit some other percussion lock (Chambers or Siler) to the rifle. Just me. George.
 
Does your rifle have a vent liner? If it has a vent liner, what are the threads on the vent liner? You need a drum with the same threads as the liner or larger so the vent liner threads can be drilled out and tapped for the new drum.
 
Because.
Walk
Interesting answer. Don't get me wrong here. It is your gun and you may do whatever you like with it. Why not share with us a reason? Some just prefer the cap and sometimes there is another issue. Sometimes people have good reasons not to. We are all learning from each other .
Thanks
Flintlocklar
 
Interesting answer. Don't get me wrong here. It is your gun and you may do whatever you like with it. Why not share with us a reason? Some just prefer the cap and sometimes there is another issue. Sometimes people have good reasons not to. We are all learning from each other .
Thanks
Flintlocklar
Reasons are irrelevant to the question, but there was no insult received on my end, so I will provide happily. Love the rifle, still learning the art of the flint. Would love to make this my only rifle and hunt with it, but struggling to shoot it well enough to ensure the clean kill the animal most definitely deserves. I will be looking into the possibility of a conversion that allows for the switch back and forth as I desire.
I did this exact same thing with a Lyman GPR many years ago, and still have it but am soon to pass this along to a close family member. Point being, the process is not new to me, just curious on how close the two locks are.
 
Most likely it won't line up perfectly. If your vent liner is 1/4-28, you will have to drill and tap it to 5/16-24 for the drum and it is better to get the percussion lock without the drum notch already cut in it so you can do it yourself and put it where it will match up to the drum.
 
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