Flint works loose after multiple shots

[Wncman]

Try cutting a notch in the leather at the screw. This may allow the flint to move further back. And maybe a little thinner leather.
Also inverting the flint may help. (Hump on the bottom) some just seem to fit better that way.

 

[Cruzatte]

A different way to do the leather and it also moves the flint further back.
View attachment 316805

This is exactly what I do. I learned it from an article in Muzzleloader Magazine many, many years ago. The added advantage of this is you don't drop you flint leather in the mud or snow in the process of swapping out a worn flint.

 

[wiscoaster]

It has been my understanding that the lock manufacturers do not recommend the use of lead for holding the flints because it puts too much stress on the lock and the ****. Only the military style locks used lead as they were more robust.

Pedersoli equips their flintlocks with lead wrap. I thought it worked like cr*p and I changed it to leather.

 

[RobertE]

I hope no one takes it as disparaging Chambers, particularly their Late Ketland.
It’s an incredibly fast lock when set up right. I’ve heard many comments from bystanders that my .36 is one of the fastest flintlocks they’ve seen, rivaling many cap locks.

 

[HighUintas]

I'm certainly not disparaging Chambers. I could have taken too much metal off in certain spots when finishing it. It's just one of those learning curves to work around.

 

[Coinneach]

A different way to do the leather and it also moves the flint further back.
View attachment 316805

The leather looks thick. I find it works best with thin flexible leather.

Don

Indeed, the leather is thick enough to be spongey and allow the Flint to move about.

I'd suggest trying a flat lead T shape flint wrap if the problem cant be resolved with a leather wrap.

 

[Coinneach]

Flint leather way too thick. Cut new ones from an old wallet , tongue of old shoe , or of thin leather like those examples. Take a 3 corner file , and put grooves in the hammer jaws. Take a hack saw and deepen the screw driver slot a few thousandths for more robust screwdriver. Always lubricate the threads on the jaw screw to eliminate thread friction. You should only have to tighten a flint in the jaws after several dozen shots , or maybe never. Do these suggestions , and you'll be a regular "flint hammer mechanic". Just think of the glory of it!! Others will be knocking on your door wanting this knowledge. My emoji's were taken away , or I would have embellished this post w/ some.

Worn out work glove leather should never be wasted.

 

[Coinneach]

It has been my understanding that the lock manufacturers do not recommend the use of lead for holding the flints because it puts too much stress on the lock and the ****. Only the military style locks used lead as they were more robust.

I've been using sheet lead Flint wraps for decades on all my ML's with nary a problem, the oldest one being an early 1980s Pecatonica River TMR Kit Rifle with a LH Siler FL; sans breakages or failures.

 

[Commodore Swab]

This is exactly what I do. I learned it from an article in Muzzleloader Magazine many, many years ago. The added advantage of this is you don't drop you flint leather in the mud or snow in the process of swapping out a worn flint.

There is no need to cut it so it goes around the **** as pictured. The void behind the top jaw screw is for the leather. I discovered this from a pistol recovered from a 300 year old shipwreck. Total time capsule.

 

[Mike in FL]

Correct.
The back of the flint needs to rest against the jaw screw. You can cut a V in the back of the leather OR you can get a hole punch and put an O through the leather through which the jaw screw will pass. This latter method also ensures that IF the flint falls out, the leather stays with the lock.

LD

Yep. The leather is to "cushiony" which lessens the flint's striking force. Think of punching someone with a boxing glove vs a bare fist. Cut the V notch and use thinner leather. Loo k time will improve.

 

[waksupi]

Take a round ball and hammer it flat , fold it around the flint, throw away the leather.

Absolutely not! That will void a Chamber's warranty immediately. The added weight on the **** will break tumblers and sears.

 

[Nwtradegunner]

One thing I noticed right away, is the relation of screw’s part that contacts the top jaw. They’re at different angles! Take it apart and weld the hole in the top jaw and drill it at the proper angle then re-install.

 

[HighUintas]

Thanks all. I'll try thinner leather first. I've got an old pair of leather gloves that's thinner and the cuff is falling off. A perfect candidate!

 

[Kentuckyjed]

Absolutely not! That will void a Chamber's warranty immediately. The added weight on the **** will break tumblers and sears.

Didn't know that about the Chambers locks, thanks for the information. I think original purchasers only have the warranty which is good to know. The lead works for me with no issues and I guess the weight of the ball you are flattening and if you are using all of it. Sorry that I ignorantly angered your emoji

 

[flntlokr]

It's a chambers lock... But I wasn't going to do any wailing and tooth gnashing! I figured it's something I did when finishing or wasn't doing correctly in use.



Thanks for the replies and advice, all! I'll try getting some thinner leather and putting the flint up against the screw.

Although, I thought that with a correctly built lock you should be able to move the flint forward as it wears to get more life from it. Is that not correct?

You can move flints forward as they wear, but if the top is sloped and the leather thick, they will 'squirt' out after a few shots.

 

[Wncman]

Pedersoli equips their flintlocks with lead wrap. I thought it worked like cr*p and I changed it to leather.

I’ve alway heard lead adds weight and can do damage. I was advised against it and have never used it.
I went to a woods walk / shoot etc in SC. My group all used leather. The sponsor group all used lead due to their sage leadership. They deducted points for the leather. Their shoot their rules. We didn’t care.

 

[Master Blaster]

Thanks all. I'll try thinner leather first. I've got an old pair of leather gloves that's thinner and the cuff is falling off. A perfect candidate!

Tanned pigskin, hole punched in leather, nicely shaped flint, positioned against the screw...might work for you, too.

 

[oreclan]

My flint keeps working loose after multiple shots. I even used a graver and raised some teeth in the top jaw so that it grips the leather really well. And I crank the screw down as tight as possible without feeling like I'm going to damage my lock. It is terribly annoying. I have to reset the flint and screw every 7-8ish shots.

Can anyone see from these pictures why it's happening? Is it the angle the top jaw is sitting at in relation to the bottom? Did I take too much off the back side of the top jaw when finishing it? The latter is my worry because I don't feel like having to fix it.

View attachment 316799View attachment 316800

The leather is too thick. Cut a notch at the the bend of a thinner leather so that a thinner flint rests against the jaw screw.
Select thinner flints. I pick out mine at events or Log Cabin Sport Shop.

 

[ZUG]

As has been noted use thinner leather and cut a notch out of the back so that the flint can move back towards the jaw screw. I like to use pig skin it's very tough.

 

[waksupi]

Didn't know that about the Chambers locks, thanks for the information. I think original purchasers only have the warranty which is good to know. The lead works for me with no issues and I guess the weight of the ball you are flattening and if you are using all of it. Sorry that I ignorantly angered your emoji

I do not like to hear of people doing things that can damage a firearm.