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Crow#21957

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I played around and messed up my flint. I have quite a few black snd amber color.
Didn't know if I was going to get it right or not. It either hit the frizzen straight on or way low and wouldn't knock frizzen open. The worst thing was all the flints look the same size as old one side by side. I turned them flipped them held v them out a little to make the work as if they were longer. Ended up getting it but the flint is upsidedown.
Lowering the hammer the flint hits 3/4the way up and the hammer/flint have a slight angle downward. Is it always like this?
Large siler
Flints are 3/4 wide and 7/8 long (correct) for lock?
The one on right was original and I knapped it once successfully and then today messed it up.
 

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I can't see the underside of the flint on the far right. But my hunch tells me it might be salvageable.
 
OK. you can use those flints but you need to put something behind them to move them closer to the frizzen. when in the fired position the flint should be pointing down into the center of the pan. IF the last picture is the cock in the fired position you have problems.
best solution is to get longer flint.
 
New frame. Just change flint. Looking at it it's like this flint is guiding the sparks down to the center of pan.Rchas it seemed weird to me but I believe you are right. I've got a weird one I guess. With that position it cand sling the frizzen open. But I've read that can be a different problem.thanks
 

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note the distance from the cock screw to the back of your flint. add that to the length of your current flint and you will have the optimum length for flints .
if you can put something between the screw and the back of the flint it will keep the flint from creeping back when in use.
 
Your particular lock has poor geometry; the flint should be only around 1/8" from the frizzen face at half cock. Yes, moving the flint farther out by putting something behind it might help. As long as the flint hits the frizzen at an angle of, oh, somewhere around 60 degrees (+ or -) it should work. The cock goes too far back for a proper lock IMHO.
 
There's no way it would even work if I rotated the hammer forward to the next flat-footed the shsft it's on right. Dumb question I know.This is a large siler that came from pecatonica with a kit. Why would they sell stuff like that. Is there anyone that would tune the lock and correct what geometry that could be corrected?
Thanks
 
Well thankyou Comfortably_Numb
I got the flint in the way I wanted. If I put it out close to the frizzen at halfcock then it wouldn't open the frizzen. I found one of the small screws in the lock was slightly rubbing the backside of hammer. Cured that.Then I found hammer excessively hard to cock.Could cock it but it was heavy. Found lock just to dirty inside from the build. Cleaned and oiled. Everything is doing ok for now.
 
With the hammer on halfcock and the frizzen closed, the flint should just barely touching the frizzen
This depends on the lock and or flint size. My large Siler locks all have a slight gap between the flint and frizzen at half cock. Same holds true with the queen Anne style lock on my smoothbore. The recommended flints are 3/4 X 7/8 for both..
 
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