Flintlock Cock Screw

[Vaino]

So far I've used a slot, through hole and a filed on hex on the cock screw to tighten a flint. So far the hex used w/ a socket wrench works the best although not very PC. Any comments?.....Fred

 

[Birddog6]

I've never had a reason to use anything other than the screw slot. The secret to holding the flint in place is the flint. It has to have a parallel top & bottom or slight taper towards the knapped edge. Humped flint or one tapered the other way are just a PITA to keep in.

So I buy the flints by the hundred & go thru the entire bag & sort the flat ones, then take a grinding wheel & make the others flat tops.

:thumbsup:

 

[J.D.]

I get the impression that the screw slot is too small to use a turnscrew. The judicious application of a knife edge file will open that screw slot enough to use nearly any turnscrew. The slot will be tapered, as were the originals. Both modern screwdrivers, and/or HC tapered turnscrews work equally well on tapered screw slots.

And, as Birddog6 suggests, rework the top flat of the flint to make it hold better.
J.D.

 

[Jim W]

Wrap top and bottom of flint in lead or leather, should hold even at turnscrew tight.

 

Many top jaw screws had a hole drilled through crosswise big enough for an awl. Stick the awl through and twist. Here's an example from Steve Bookout's webpage:
[url] http://www.midiowa.com/toadhallrifleshop/modify_siler_lock.htm[/url]

Sean

 

[Zonie]

Be very careful using a hex tool to tighten the screw.
As you know, a screw driver usually is sufficient to do the job and it would be very easy to over tighten the screw with a hex wrench or socket wrench.

The danger here is that the cock is not real strong and can be bent. Worse still too much pressure could snap off the drive on the tumbler.

 

[Birddog6]

Also once in a while ya see one that was not drilled straight & the jaws are not parallel. Years ago I had a used rifle I bought with this issue. Had to do a lil welding & filing in the jaw to rectify the problem. Hmmmmm............ use leather or lead in the jaw..... Now that is a concept. Next thing ya know they will be greasin the patches to make them slide down easier & lube the barrel..... :hmm:

 

[Many Klatch]

If the flint and leather keep popping out after all that and the screw isn't bottoming out on the cock, then maybe you need to rough up the insides of the jaws. An engraving tool can be used to raise some sharp teeth on the inside of the jaws, top and bottom. About a dozen on each side should do it. That will hold the flint in and should keep the flint in as well.

Many Klatch

 

[Vaino]

Sold a LR a few years back that had a gouge caused by a screwdriver slipping off the cock screw, really felt bad and took a slight loss on the price. Seeing I don't like "buggered" screw slots, I filed a hex on the cockscrew which can hardly be noticed and have used a hex socket/modified allen wrench ever since. Applying too much force w/ it is a real danger in that the cock can be bent or the threads can be stripped very easily. Perhaps buying some better shaped flints or modifying their shapes would eliminate the need for the hex socket. What kind of grinding wheel is used to shape the flints? Presently use leather for padding......Fred