While I agree that stupidity has become the new Norm, one can always hopeI think if you look at the society around us, you will see that humans have made a great effort to, and done a good job of, proving him wrong.
While I agree that stupidity has become the new Norm, one can always hopeI think if you look at the society around us, you will see that humans have made a great effort to, and done a good job of, proving him wrong.
I’m no expert but I think your success comes from the way you set your patch and ball; that is adequately compressed and consistent. I think if you’re not careful in setting the ball and compressing the powder you could have a problem; why guys mark there ram rod.Prove it.
We have been waiting for definitive proof of this for years.
We have seen someone using 4f as a main charge for quite some time now with no I'll effect in several guns.
We have been asking for proof of this, "you'll blow your gun up," stuff for a long time. Not one shred of evidence has been presented.
I'm aware of Keith's incident, and a couple others he had.
Where can I find this semi-auto pistol test?
When Dupont Had a faux pas in 1969 or 70 - The only BP I could find was 4f. I shot it in a FL pistol, FL rifle and an 1858 Remington with never a problem and still have all of those firearms and the only problems i have had has been a broken sear spring on the FL rifle and a broken bolt spring on the Remington - none of which was due to the powder.The early matchlock shooters used black powder meal, dust essentially.
Muzzleloading still caught on!
I honestly think a lot of folks interpretation of what actually goes on in the breech is a little upside down.
Some seem to think higher breech pressure is bad. Why is it? At what point does it suddenly get bad? How can we shoot something without pressure. Who determines good pressure and bad pressure? Crazy notions giving birth to useless questions giving birth to fear but completely unfounded.
Do reasonable men here honestly believe that barrel makers have NOT tested their barrels? Would they not clearly state whether a certain powder type should not be used? Wait, they do! No smokeless type powder. But they don't do the same for 4f!
So what we have is some folk that are elevating themselves above their authority on the subject. They, without a shred of testing are propelling themselves as profits of doom in a vien attempt to impress others. This is obvious by their response when someone comes along and pokes a hole in their theory.
Why do manufacturers put a warning on their barrels BLACK POWDER ONLY?
The primary reason is that a muzzleloader of traditional design is open breeched. It by default has high pressure escaping via the nipple or vent. With the vast choice in speeds of smokeless a much higher pressure can get forced out of the vent. There is a clear risk of fragments of cap, nipple, frizzens and flints being dislodged and causing injury. IT IS NOT THE BARREL WILL BURST PRIMARILY.
For example. Many early breech loading shotguns with only blackpowder proof marks of all barrel types were subjected to nitro proof so as to use the new cartridges emerging on the market and we're successful. Why? Because the breech is sealed!
Sure you can blow a muzzleloader to bits with nitro powder but so can you also do the same to any firearm.
Fill a 50bmg case with bullseye and stand back!
In essence the barrel is not the worry. If its got blackpowder in it there is no concern, irrespective of granulation size.
The experiments have been done. Look up Sam Fadala for one resource. Look up them that have made all manner of firearms from screwed pipe fittings and NO I DO NOT RECOMMEND THAT PRACTICE but it has been mentioned because it emphathises that the barrels on our muzzleloaders are not going to burst.
One other thing I don't get is, why is it OK to use 4f in a small pistol. Or revolver. Often with nipples pointing directly back at the shooter and of thinner chamber wall thickness its OK to use but somehow in a thicker barrelled long gun and of larger bore it becomes mysteriously dangerous!
If anything a larger bore causes a drop in pressure!
The other topsy-turvy notion is of how 4f verses 1f burns, flame fronts and all that blah blah. Some believe that because the larger grains burn slower it is somehow ideal. It's not!
What is ideal is consistency. For consistency we want all the charge alight as quick as possible preferably before added variables start via the projectile starting to move off. Talking in terms of nano seconds here the less variation in timings of complete combustion is crucial to consistency and consistent barrel harmonics. The longer it takes to reach complete combustion just opens the door to more variation in times, pressure development and quite possibly higher and irregular muzzle pressures. In short, most of us are thinking backwards on the subject!
The fact 4f increases breech pressure over courser grades is in fact ideal! It's perfect in fact! It's what we actually need and nothing to fear at all.
My finest grade powder, measured and with the help of zonie we determined was a mix of mostly 4f and some 3f. I have loaded it in a bess and heavy shot loads for years. A 20g (.63) upto 100gns. 12gs a plenty, flint and cap. No issues. Never ever shall I purchase anything courser than 3f again. It was terrible. I would rather use an airgun than that stuff!
Instead of fearing higher pressure from a normal loading procedure for a traditional muzzleloader I say embrace it. Why all the fear? No, why all the unfounded fear?
The only fear to respect when it comes to muzzleloading is a cavity. A gap between powder and ball. In that scenario it matters not one bit what granulation the powder is does it!
Amen. Observable and repeatable.When Dupont Had a faux pas in 1969 or 70 - The only BP I could find was 4f. I shot it in a FL pistol, FL rifle and an 1858 Remington with never a problem and still have all of those firearms and the only problems i have had has been a broken sear spring on the FL rifle and a broken bolt spring on the Remington - none of which was due to the powder.
might even consider 4F but it would probably run out of the touch hole.
If you plug the vent first it should not leak after loading.This thread has been most interesting. I've been a black powder shooter for a few decades but the safety discussion here prompted me to do 1 thing and to share 1 perspective. (1) Never used a leather cover for my frizzen and said to myself...good idea. Was about to sew up a little custom cover and I see an old leather glove on the workbench. After cutting off one of the finger stalls on the glove... frizzen cover competed 60 seconds later. (2) In reloading and shooting, I have always looked to stay in the mainstream. On my hunting rifles, I have always used 4F in the pan and 80-90 grains as a main charge. There is nothing as discouraging as hunting hard all day and then having a failure to fire when given an opportunity. Happened 1x and made me crazy. I change out the 4F pan powder sometimes as often as every hour on a wet day because I have observed the powder change its texture from moisture in the air. Would 3F absorb less moisture...probably. The other little practice I do is drop 20% of the main charge down the barrel with 3F followed by the remainder of the charge with 2F just thinking that the mixed powder load might have an edge in assuring ignition. Always works but probably meaningless.....might even consider 4F but it would probably run out of the touch hole.
Funny, but that photo looks like piles of Black Cumin and Weed.
Interesting I had a lot of discussions on my 577-500 no2 double barrel with Hall ( Ulfere) on British military forums. It’s made for a 440g bullet but he wanted to push it to full nitro 570g bullet. Both at 2150 ft :sec. Mine is nitro for black his BP only. The problem of our argument how do you make a test barrel of the same material as 1906 ,1885 or earlier discussions went on by email for over a year From Greaem Wrights book on double rifles he had found in uk the proof houses are running out of copper pills to pressure test their loads when these are used up how will testing be done , electronically we guess There are a good few pressure tests and tables on BP rifles which I can always copy to anyone nitro? Indeed I have below Nitro powders can be quite gentle like R15 with preserves under 10.1tons. (See table 570 g ) One I would like to try but not the nerve to do it yet I actually had mine stupidly reproofed for BP on the suggestion of the proof house , bonus it’s now a BP rifle ok for France without a license, it’s a long interesting subject enjoyAnd here in lies "the crux of the biscuit."
Those of us asking for evidence of blown up guns and injured people from the use of 4f as a main charge are not advocating using, "too much," or even, as much, of a powder charge.
We are not even telling people to use it, only that it is possible, done responsibly.
And you are quite correct about testing. One doesn't even need to blow up the barrels. Someone with access to the equipment to pressure test a few barrels, could easily do the test. But, I think at least one barrel would need to be tested to failure, both for dramatic effect and so we can see the pressure increases leading up to the point of failure, if any. Of course, to be fair, the same test should be done with 2f and 3f. But, this would get expensive, that is a lot of barrels, a lot of powder, and a lot of lead. Not to mention patches and/or wads and lube.
But man, would I love to be part of that. Regardless of end result, that would be a very interesting day.
Interesting I had a lot of discussions on my 577-500 no2 double barrel with Hall ( Ulfere) on British military forums. It’s made for a 440g bullet but he wanted to push it to full nitro 570g bullet. Both at 3150 ft :sec. Mine is nitro for black his BP only. The problem of our argument how do you make a test barrel of the same material as 1906 or 1885 discussions went on by email for over a year From Greaem Wrights book on double rifles he had found in uk the proof houses are running out of copper pills to test their loads There are a good few pressure tests and tables on BP rifles which I can always copy to anyone nitro? powders can be quite gentle like R15 with preserves under 12 tons. One I would like to try but not the nerve to do it yet I actually had mine stupidly reproofed for BP on the suggestion of the proof house , bonus it’s now a BP rifle ok for France without a license,And here in lies "the crux of the biscuit."
Those of us asking for evidence of blown up guns and injured people from the use of 4f as a main charge are not advocating using, "too much," or even, as much, of a powder charge.
We are not even telling people to use it, only that it is possible, done responsibly.
And you are quite correct about testing. One doesn't even need to blow up the barrels. Someone with access to the equipment to pressure test a few barrels, could easily do the test. But, I think at least one barrel would need to be tested to failure, both for dramatic effect and so we can see the pressure increases leading up to the point of failure, if any. Of course, to be fair, the same test should be done with 2f and 3f. But, this would get expensive, that is a lot of barrels, a lot of powder, and a lot of lead. Not to mention patches and/or wads and lube.
But man, would I love to be part of that. Regardless of end result, that would be a very interesting day.
- Flintlocks and Black Powder
I did say that the Swiss N°1(4Fg) is not so good for a full load (I mean the choice), but it is perfectly usable in any type of arm : the charge will just lack oxygen between the grains and the powder will be a little more irregular and faster (more lively when ignited), but it is a shooting and hunting powder: it is written on it, and I have extensively tested it without swelling or bursting a barrel....
- https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/attachments/4fg-jpg.112002/
Discuss about danger of that powder don't have any sens : I use this, my wife use this, and we have all our fingers in good condition since 50 years of use (50 years ago we didn't use Swiss powder but only French)...
just looking I can see no pressure tables in Graeme Writes book for 4f There are only tables for 3Fg and 2Fg perhaps 4Fg is not available in Oz who knows. Generally we are looking at pressure loads around 11tons square in. Quite low for most guns I find it an interesting subject Seems Graeme has done more pressure testing on guns than anyone else, especially at Birmingham proof house admittedly it’s all on double rifles but much is on Black powder guns from 1850 I guess and double rifle barrels are relatively thin as they have a weight problem Enjoy- Flintlocks and Black Powder
I did say that the Swiss N°1(4Fg) is not so good for a full load (I mean the choice), but it is perfectly usable in any type of arm : the charge will just lack oxygen between the grains and the powder will be a little more irregular and faster (more lively when ignited), but it is a shooting and hunting powder: it is written on it, and I have extensively tested it without swelling or bursting a barrel....
- https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/attachments/4fg-jpg.112002/
Discuss about danger of that powder don't have any sens : I use this, my wife use this, and we have all our fingers in good condition since 50 years of use (50 years ago we didn't use Swiss powder but only French)...
I was reading in France you can carry a flintlock , in a vehicle I guess, but the flint must be removed Just an interesting comment I thoughtIn most states, a flintlock can be transported with a loaded barrel as long as the hammer is down and the frizzen is up. You can place a tooth pick in the touch hole which protects the main charge from ignition. Out in the field, you can use a leather boot over the frizzen.
I guess you are referring to duplex loads. In Graeme Wrights book on double rifles he’s the only gentleman that’s gone into detail on duplex loads he mixed smokeless and Bp it seems. Probably a world expert especially on BP and nitro rifles I trust it’s ok to display parts of his book thus promoting the importance of his work to double riflesSince this thread is titled Flintlocks and black powder, and since I am complete rookie, I seek some knowledge on the use of black powder. Keep in mind that I am a complete rookie so I am permitted a few more stupid questions. I can't wait to get more powder so I can go do a lot of practicing but for now, I have to save what I have for hunting.
I have read about using two different powders for a charge, one on top of the other. I am assuming that this is done to help ignition and promote the proper pressure to achieve a combined result of velocity and accuracy?
1. What would happen if the two powders (let's say 2F and 3F) were mixed, rather than layered?
Other unrelated questions:
1. I bought what I now know is a marketing mimic gun (Traditions Pa. Pellet) but I have to make the best of it. I was told to use 3F powder because 2F might bridge together preventing powder from getting down close enough to the touch hole. (see drawing) Does this make sense?
2. A gentleman who I believe to be an expert told me that "if he owned my gun" he would drill the two intersecting holes in the breech plug larger and then thread it for an aftermarket touch hole liner to ensure ignition. (see drawing) Does this make sense? Note the shoulder just inside the liner.
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Gordoncourtney said:I was reading in France you can carry a flintlock , in a vehicle I guess, but the flint must be removed Just an interesting comment I thought
That’s brill to hear from you Erwan I was just looking at property in Brittany I just got sent but it’s all in millions tv program last night Spain wants Scottish shell fish , but trying to get it there is a nightmare of paperwork around 400 documents per lorry. I think the EU needed Brexit to shake them up, my kids are so angry we are not in the EU they are skiing in Italy canceld in France. When will it end I don’t mind rejoining if things were different Germany’s seems to be getting too much power and everybody wants to come to England but it’s still a green and pleasant land but so small. My son was amazed at the size of France driving on empty roads for hours. I absolutely loved it ad ghe a is LH drive.Hi Gordoncourtney,
Many thanks for all your posts and I wish you a very happy new year.
Well, you can or I must say "You could" because everything is more and more difficult, theoretically you can carry any kind of weapon in your camper.......... if you have a valid reason: in fact between home and the shooting club, competition or other match with invitation....
For this category of weapon you can theoretically do it (classified in category "D": free) like all the BP weapons except the pistols like the ROA now in category "B" (prohibited, but don't ask me why): in France all that is BP and before the year 1900 is free except exceptions, for example a Colt peacemaker until December 31, 1900 is free, but January 1, 1901 it is prohibited...
France is the country and the mother of all administrations and rules, laws that change every day: what was good yesterday is maybe bad today...
I think that one can carry a flint without flint but it is subject to interpretation in the place and in the date and according to the police that one will meet...
For the last five years, we became crazy with those new laws and rules...
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