flux in molten lead

[D Sanders]

I just started casting my own lead balls today. I read that you are supposed to "flux" the molten lead every so often. What should you use and what does fluxing do? :hmm:

Hawken Hunter 60

 

[ADK Ephraim]

I use some small (1/4") pieces of beeswax; it will smoke some, but has the effect of bringing the dross (impurities and dirt) in the melted lead to the surface, making it easier to scoop them off and helps 'purify' your lead. I also think it helps the lead flow better from your ladle or from the downspout of your pot.

 

[fatboy]

You can buy a comercial made flux for casting Ive used Marvelux or as noted above you can use beeswax I have used both and I lean toward the beeswax. I have heard some testing the use of olive oil can't comment on it's use myself . Where ever you cast your ball make sure you have good air flow so your not breathing in the fumes.

 

[dbutch]

I flux with a product called Clean Cast Lead Fluxing Compound made by Frankford Arsenal..you can buy it on line through shooting and reloading sites.

This is how all my casts look after using it.bright and shinny... .490 on left.... .610 on right

 

[R.M.]

Anything that produces carbon can be used for fluxing. A piece of dry wood will work well. I use chop-sticks a lot. Waxes or oils produce a lot of smoke unless you light it and let it burn. This is where you get fumes, there is no fumes from the lead itself, unless you get it un-godly hot, which I doubt any of our pots can (up over 1000°).

 

[paulvallandigham]

I use beeswax, simply because it works. The key to bringing up the crud is to be stirring the molten lead constantly while the flux burns off. Don't be breathing these fumes, either. I stir and flux the molten lead after adding more lead to the pot, and bringing the temperature back up to casting temperature. I don't know what crud might be introduced into the existing lead by the new lead I add, so its an appropriate time to stir, and flux.

Then, of course, skim the dross off the top of the lead and throw it away.( I use a .46 oz juice can to collect the dross, but any can can be used. It takes several years to fill up the can.)

 

[hpbear101]

I use wax and toss a match on it to burn off all the fumes. I made a stirring tool from a piece of heavy coathanger it has a loop on the bottom. I stir vertically to make sure all the lead gets circulated.

If you are new to casting, use caution. I cannot strees enough how important eye protection, long sleeved shirt, and gloves are. It only takes a tiny drop of moisture to cause one heck of an explosion.

I was casting lanotype ingots last year from some stuff I have picked up from a garage sale. There must have been a small void with a little moisture because 15 or so pounds of molten lead exploded. Fortunately I was not close to the pot when it blew, unfortunately I was wearing shorts and it burned the heck out of my leg. It sounded like a shotgun going off and covered my workbench cieling and wall with a foil thin layer of lead. So be very carefull when you are adding lead to an already molten pot.

Other than that, casting can be very intersting part of the hobby!

Tom

 

[MSW]

i, too, use plain old beeswax. (if you don't have a source, contact your Ag extension agent and ask for the name and phone number of a local beekeeper ... they'll be happy to help .. the beekeeper will probably be willing to sell you a lifetime supply of beeswax- it need not be refined, strained or whatever).

having said that, Makeumsmoke's stuff from the Frankfort Arsenal really does seem to produce a great result.

when you cast (if you're not already doing so) make sure that you are wearing long sleeved shirt and trousers. wear 'proper' shoes (i.e. not sandals) and be sure to cast outdoors. you want to have the wind at your back, so the fumes blow away from you. of course, don't eat or drink anything while casting, and be sure to wash yor hands thoroughly after you're done. i wear a hat when i cast, especially in the warmer month: one drop of sweat falling into the molten lead will instantly and explosively turn to steam and splash lead in all directions from a surprising distance. very very bad ju- ju.

fumes and accidential ingestion of lead can mess you up- not trying to scare you, but it is something you should know about so that you can take proper precautions, like rolling up your windows in a rainstorm.

once you've cast your own roundball, you will be officially turned to the darkside. enjoy!

make good smoke!

 

[GreyWhiskers]

Sawdust does a good job of returning oxidized lead back into lead. It will also remove impurities from the melt.

When casting with pure lead I rarely flux anymore. I just keep skimming the oxidized lead off the top. I will flux when making ingots. GW

 

[D Sanders]

Great looking cast! :thumbsup: What is the weight differential between balls? How discriminate are you?

Hawken Hunter 60

 

[dbutch]

I just recently got the .610 mold from lee. I do not have a digital scale.I've poured 300 so far.have been able to hold 2 inches at 100 yards with them .so they must be ok. I guess I'm not discriminate at all.I pour the larger balls between 850-950 degrees -try to keep lead around 900 degrees.... this was in 20 degree outside temps. I flux at the beginning of the pour with a 20# lee pot with ladle.

 

[paulvallandigham]

A balance beam scale is cheaper, and just as accurate as an electronic, " digital" scale. Save your money and get a scale. If you are consistent in your casting techniques, you should get castings that are both the same weight, and the same diameter.

 

[redwing]

I use Dark Amber Pine Rosin. The reason I use it, is I get it free from a foundry. The foundry pours lead castings for mine trucks. They use it by the 100 lb. bag. Smells terrible smokes like a forest fire. :idunno: It works just great. :thumbsup: