Onojutta
45 Cal.
What size screws would be appropriate for an english fowler butt plate?
-
Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.
We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.
Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103
Fowler butt plate screws
- Thread starter Onojutta
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
TDM
Cannon
- Joined
- May 28, 2022
- Messages
- 9,658
- Reaction score
- 24,218
- Location
- Louisiana & My camp in Mississippi
A 7/8” round head slotted would be my choice. Either a #8 or #10 size, I don’t remember for sure.
About this size, the head is about 1/2" across, they are about an inch long. I wish I could give you a size but I bought an assortment from Blacksmith Bolts and picked the ones out of the pile I thought looked about right.
update! I just thought of this from my fowler plans. I used round head screws; I didn't think the flat head ones shown in the plans would look right.
update! I just thought of this from my fowler plans. I used round head screws; I didn't think the flat head ones shown in the plans would look right.
Last edited:
Onojutta
45 Cal.
I have #10 screws but they are smaller than the ones I used on my rifle. However, from that post above it looks like #10 is appropriate.
Pete G
76 Cal.
Those are called oval headed, not round.
TDM
Cannon
- Joined
- May 28, 2022
- Messages
- 9,658
- Reaction score
- 24,218
- Location
- Louisiana & My camp in Mississippi
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2005
- Messages
- 5,223
- Reaction score
- 10,881
Hi,
Many original fowlers had large flat head screws. The screw in the heel was simply filed to conform to the heel. Oval headed screws are fine too. Depending on how you inlet the butt plate, your heel screw may be going through some air before engaging the wood so make sure it is long enough to have secure purchase in the wood. I use #10 screws 1 1/2" long for the heel.
dave
Many original fowlers had large flat head screws. The screw in the heel was simply filed to conform to the heel. Oval headed screws are fine too. Depending on how you inlet the butt plate, your heel screw may be going through some air before engaging the wood so make sure it is long enough to have secure purchase in the wood. I use #10 screws 1 1/2" long for the heel.
dave
Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
I use some real monsters for BP screws. I get them out of old wood chairs I buy at auctions. You can buy whole groups of old beat up chairs for less than $5. I take the screws out and bust the rest up for firewood. Mostly all large flat head screws. If I want oval heads I chuck them up in my drill press and use a file to shape the heads.
I always called them round head (no big deal) which mine probably are after I cuck them up in a drill and file them down to fit the cockeyed off center countersinks that I unfortunately cut way too often.
I drilled for the holes in my fowler butt plate way before I discovered centering drills, there are at least 3 or 4 dowel plugs under each hole where I drilled the pilot hole off center too far to have the screw head fit the countersink. Second build, I was pretty green and learned as I struggled through it.
I only had two hickory plugs in at this point, more were to follow. I am glad this kind of stuff gets covered up.
In spite of my ineptitude and calling oval head screws round head screws the gun came out OK.
I drilled for the holes in my fowler butt plate way before I discovered centering drills, there are at least 3 or 4 dowel plugs under each hole where I drilled the pilot hole off center too far to have the screw head fit the countersink. Second build, I was pretty green and learned as I struggled through it.
I only had two hickory plugs in at this point, more were to follow. I am glad this kind of stuff gets covered up.
In spite of my ineptitude and calling oval head screws round head screws the gun came out OK.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jun 17, 2019
- Messages
- 8,383
- Reaction score
- 9,771
Very clever tip! As an auction-goer myself, never would have thought of that, but then again I don't see too many beat-up chairs. I did make a note some time back about Blacksmith screws. Thanks.
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2005
- Messages
- 5,223
- Reaction score
- 10,881
Hi Eric,
You did a very nice job inletting that butt plate. Well done!
dave
You did a very nice job inletting that butt plate. Well done!
dave
Onojutta
45 Cal.
Eric, that’s funny I have done the same thing with multiple plugs and attempts at drilling the holes, and that’s with using a center bit. 
Thanks, it was nightmare because at the time I thought the wood had to be a mirror image of the inside of the butt plate. I made it that way but it took months, literally, one little chip at a time. I also had the bright idea to start the inlet with extra wood so I could practice inletting as I went down, BIG mistake, once I started, I couldn't go back.
Onojutta
45 Cal.
Well, I used the #10 x 1-1/2 ovals that I had in stock, and looks about right. Does anyone secure the tang of the butt plate with a pinned lug? This butt plate did not come with a lug for that purpose but I could easily add one. Is that worth the effort?
Cockeyed, off center countersinks? WHO LET YOU INTO MY SHOP?!!?
Good to know I'm not the only one!
I'm learning more every day that the great masters of the gunsmithing art were masters at hiding errors better than most. To quote the great painter Bob Ross, "just happy little accidents".
Capt. Jas.
58 Cal.
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2005
- Messages
- 3,049
- Reaction score
- 1,352
Yes I would put in a cross pin lug or make it into a wedge hook to hide the attachment and avoid the pin
Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
You need to put your toe screw about an inch higher.
I agree on the toe screw.
If your inlet is tight and the top screw pulls the butt plate a little forward into the inlet, I don't think a forward pin or hook is necessary. I couldn't pry my buttplate return out with a crowbar.
Your inletting job looks really good.
Here is where I put my lower screw;
If your inlet is tight and the top screw pulls the butt plate a little forward into the inlet, I don't think a forward pin or hook is necessary. I couldn't pry my buttplate return out with a crowbar.
Your inletting job looks really good.
Here is where I put my lower screw;
Onojutta
45 Cal.
I like it where it is with this particular butt plate. I put it a little higher on rifles when the heel screw is on the top, but with the heel screw on the crown of the bend being visible from the back, I didn't want the screws to appear too close together. The camera angle doesn't quite do it justice, but there is a proportionate amount of brass on the sides and below the screw; were the butt plate wider like the one Eric Krewson showed, it would have been appropriate to locate the screw a little higher.
I had one rifle that I plugged the screw hole and redid it 3 times before I gave up in frustration and drilled the darn thing out, filled the hole with Acraglas and lots of flock and put the screw in about 1/8 turn out of N/S line up. It turned out perfect after the final tightening. Like the man says, good thing it's hidden.
