Frizzen: replace or repair

[artmechanic]

So, I just picked up my 1st rock-lock: a slightly used GP .54 lefty flinter. Took it out to the range with new flints and was getting anemic sparks, when it sparked at all. Shifted the position of the flint, and did the usual adjustments that I researched both here and at other flint-info sites.
I did notice that the frizzen had a washboard/scratched up surface (which is odd as the rifle truly is in 'hardly fired' condition) and am thinking this could be the reason. I've looked into repairing the frizzen myself, but the more I research, the more I like buying a new one. Can anyone advise on the quality of manufacturers vs the Lyman 'house brand'.
Oh, when it did fire, I was smackin' metal at 75 and 100 yards (all the non-sparks helped me get over the flinch...I'm a half-full kinda guy)

Thanks.

 

[54ball]

OK.
Were you using sharp knapped flints? Like amber French or Tom Fuller English from Track, The cut agate commercial flints don't work for me.

Frizzen...
Every new flint lock I have owned has benefited from this procedure, Lightly polish the frizzen face with 300 to 600 or finer emery cloth or sand paper. This smooths out the wash boards from flint strikes. IMHO regardless of hardness frizzens do scar and work harden at the impact strike. Polishing lets the flint skate down shaving sparks instead of digging in and breaking on burs.

It takes 5 minutes.

Try this and make sure your flint is sharp, if not knap it. Also make sure you have enough powder in the pan.

You are using real Black Powder, correct?

Also experiment with different sizes of powder. I had a new flinlock years ago that refused to fire reliably with 4ffffg, really disliked 3fffg and was sure fire with 2ffg. Eventually it improved and would fire with 2 and 3fffg reliably.

It's a learning curve. You have to work the rifle in and also gain the skill. You just have to fool with it and learn it.

After you have done all the simple things, learned it, if you are still having trouble then go further in replacing stuff.

 

[artmechanic]

Thank you, 54Ball. I'll try the emory and work with positioning, etc. a bit more. I'm using English flints from Dixie GunWorks and test on my nail for sharpness... little bit comes off = good to go.

 

[artmechanic]

Oh, and definitely BP, 3F in the pan. When it sparks, the ignition feels great. I fill the pan about 1/3, with space between it and the hole.

Thanks again

 

[artmechanic]

oops, Dixie Gunworks = Track of the Wolf...brain went missing there a moment.

 

[SgtErv]

I have the same lock on a rifle and experienced the same thing. Mine prefers the French amber flints, bevel down. That positioning made a huge difference for ignition and certainly kept it out of the grooves and gouges.

Good luck! If nothing else, it's fun experimenting haha

 

[Tom Compton]

Yep freshen it up. But then order a spare frizzen, feather spring and main spring.
TC

 

[M. De Land]

I think the reason for the wash board effect is that the flint edge is constantly changing shape and position in respect to it's impact on the frizzen face.
Two important things happen as the flint wears. It shortens and the edge chips which lowers it in relation to the mid line of the flint body.Both of these change it's impact position on the frizzen as does flipping the bevel.
This fact is one of the important reasons one should learn how to pressure flake their flint edge and not just bang on it to get some sharp places to make sparks.
With pressure flaking you can lower or raise and then straighten the edge at will and make it strike the frizzen all the way across the front of the strike edge.
I have not tried this idea yet but am going to.
How about a wood flint made up with a 120 grit sand paper face glued on and then dry fired 20-25 times.
If made so the impact is high up on the frizzen than it can sand all the way down to dress and smooth the entire impact surface.
Just a thought.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Yep freshen it up. But then order a spare frizzen, feather spring and main spring.
TC

Yep. Respectfully, it sounds to me like the other responders have missed the mark. Your description sounds to me like you do have a soft frizzen face. You can do a home hardening if you have the tools and means. Or just order a new frizzen.

 

[artmechanic]

thanks

 

[artmechanic]

am taking it to the range this afternoon and a refresh...will see how it goes

thanks

 

[artmechanic]

will have to give this a try

thanks

 

[artmechanic]

Will see how it goes with the freshening, but I'm afraid you may be right. Oh well, not that much of an outlay for new parts (considering the return in fun)

 

[Commodore Swab]

Sounds like a soft frizzen. You don't have to go to the range to test it all you need is powder in the pan. Tuned properly once put in a flint does not need much of anything and should last at least 100-200 shots. On overly stiff frizzen spring is a common problem that causes a rapid wearing of the flint and frizzen face especially if it is not hard enough.

 

[FrontierMuzzleloading]

Could try shortening the flint a bit. My flinters prefer a certain length otherwise they'll just break up until it hits the sweet spot. Then they throw sparks like crazy.

 

[Artificer]

Could try shortening the flint a bit. My flinters prefer a certain length otherwise they'll just break up until it hits the sweet spot. Then they throw sparks like crazy.

Your post reminded me of THE most common problem experienced with Pedersoli and Japanese Brown Besses. (Might also be with Indian Besses, but they were not around when I reenacted, so I can not say for sure with them.) The problem was the flint was too long for the lock.

I would try different length flints with different thicknesses of leather flint wrap and many times that alone turned a lock that would not spark at all into a sure sparker.

So this is always the first thing I suggest when dealing with a lock that won't spark.

Gus

 

[andles]

I know everyone generally puts down the agate flints but when I got my 54 GPR some 10 years ago it came with an agate flint and it worked fine. Everyone said to get real flints and I did but it busted them up. The agate ones kept on working. I got a pack of 3 extra agates just in case but have only used 1 of them. When they stop sparking I just sharpen up the flat edge with a diamond sharpening stone and it keeps on sparking. I only have something like 500 shots on the 2 agate flints but as a cheap, easy fix you might give them a try.

I have other real flintlocks that give me practice knapping and fiddling with real flints but when I want to shoot I use the GPR and the agates.

Perhaps not HC but they definitely work.

 

[artmechanic]

Sanded down the frizzen to removed the 'washboard'...5 strikes and the face was gouged again...I'm thinking soft.
Thanks for the response.

 

[artmechanic]

Tried that...no go. But thanks for the advice.

 

[artmechanic]

Had 3 different lengths, different thicknesses of leather (tried sheet lead too). I'll get it working yet. When it did fire, it was a beauty.
Thanks