Front sling swivel install

[MattyB]

I am toying with the notion of putting a sling swivel on my full stock Renegade.

The question I have is, do I NEED to install another "tab" in the barrel to put the screw through? Would it be OK to just drill through over the rod thimble and call it good, or even install one of those brass tubes(similar to the ones used for some knife lanyard holes) through the stock over the thimble? I would imagine that would be strong enough to take the pressure from a sling, but I would like to have input from those more experienced. Thanks.

 

[fusil de chase]

I have never installed a sling anchor on a ML but as I understand it you want to afix it such that when it lays down it rests on a RR thimble. That keeps it from interferring with the RR.

When it comes to soldering. Do not be afraid of the operation. It goes very well. tin each side of the joint, don't touch the flame to the joint area, heat very slowy and it will work.

It takes a mouse manure size piece of solder to tin each side.

When your done you will be able to hang a deer from your tab.

 

[gunmaker43]

Simple way ? Renegades and other TC guns can be fitted with an after market rod pipe with swivel lug on it. Whole kit 20 $$ or so includes rear screw & swivel as well. ebay/amazon. .Tom

 

[Patocazador]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Yep. I put a set on my T/C Hawken about 30 years ago. It hasn't failed yet.

 

[fusil de chase]

Leave it to Tom to come up with the simple and economical solution.

 

[Birddog6]

If you are going to have the sling swivel self securing, this is how I have done them.

Remove the underrib. Clamp it to a piece of flat steel simulating the barrel. Drill a hole for the swivel screw in the underrib against the flat iron.

Then drill & tap for a support screw in front & behind the swivel pivot.

End result is this.



Be sure to have the swivel resting on the RR pipe, or every time you take the RR out the swivel gets in the way of the RR going back in the rifle.


Keith Lisle

 

[MattyB]

The gun is fullstock, with no rib under the barrel.

I understand that the swivel needs to rest on the RR pipe.

I can't use the swivel that goes on the pipe/thimble from T/C because I no longer have the stock thimbles/pipes on the gun.

I am trying to figure out if drilling the screw through the wood stock, without installing and inletting another underlug, would cause problems.

 

[kaintuck]

Then, yes, install a steel lug, dovetailed into the barrel. Period style lugs/swivels can be had from TOTW. The front attachment takes most of the weight from the rifle....take your time.

 

[fusil de chase]

without installing and inletting another underlug, would cause problems

No one can guess whether or not your wood will split.

I understand the wariness about soldering on your barrel. For certain though it is not a big deal. You might or might not need to dovetail the barrel. How much wood is between the RR ans the barrel? Do you already have a swivel? How thick is the bolt?

 

[Birddog6]

If a fullstock rifle, then I would put another lug on the barrel for the sling support. Thus shown, makes a clean
nice looking mount & works well. (I think :idunno: )

Here are a few examples of sling swivels I have put on some Jaeger rifles I have built.









Since this requires 2 dovetails close together, it is important you inlet carefully & remove just enough wood to let the underlug in.

Also on the sling swivel, I use a heavier underlug than what I use to pin the barrel. The underlug on the left is what I use for sling swivel support. I get it mounted then I drill the hole & trim it off, as it is too tall. The underlug on the right is what I use for pinning the stocks to the barrel. On the sling underlug, I fit it snug, stake it 3 times on each side of the dovetail. Sorry, but I cannot locate a photo of one installed on the barrel at the moment.



Keith Lisle

 

[Old40Rod]

Use silver solder paste and solder on an underlug... couldn't be easier. TW has the paste. You don't have to mess with flux or tinning procedure.

 

[don hepler]

Nice job on the Jaegers. How is the sling attached at the butt stock? What the heck, I'd like to see the whole rifle.

 

[fusil de chase]

x2 on the vote for seeing that whole rifle(s).

Seeing that neato sling 'buckle' made from an antler tip gives me a very good reason to hunt bear this spring, I want a box of long claws to use to replicate that idea.

 

[kaintuck]

Dovetail lugs x2 :bow: :surrender:

:haha:

 

[Birddog6]

Here are 3 few examples of retaining the sling on the butt. Pretty much same retention on all 3, but you can see it on dif. grades of work.

Previously shown, the front sling swivel has a screw retaining it thru the wood & thru the barrel underlug. Thus you can remove it simply by removing the screw & sliding it off.
If you want just the sling off, you just pull the deer time (has 2 grooves rasped in it for retention) and the front of the sling comes off.

These examples show the rear of the sling is retained by a fancy screw. You can make the leather slip over the large screw head by a slit into a punched hole in the leather, & easily removable. Or just a hole in the leather for the screw & you install the screw thru the the leather into the stock.







Keith Lisle

 

[gunmaker43]

The Ferguson English rifle uses a long piece of flat bar about 1/16" thick, 2" or so with a lug on it. Not attached to bbl. inlet down from bbl. chn'l. I did this on an 8 lb. rifle & it's still on gun, I did make it 3" long & welded a lug to it. Works well and you don't have to remove sling to pull bbl.....Tom

 

[don hepler]

That is more than a screw for the sling. That is art. Very nice craftsmanship. Thanks for showing.

 

[Patocazador]

These examples show the rear of the sling is retained by a fancy screw. You can make the leather slip over the large screw head by a slit into a punched hole in the leather, & easily removable. Or just a hole in the leather for the screw & you install the screw thru the the leather into the stock.







Keith Lisle

Does the rear screw tap directly into the wood or is there a counter-sunk threaded female shaft?

I would like to do this but don't want to goof it up. Yours is classy.

 

[kaintuck]

Again TOTW has them....one long screw....predrill hole, use the proper fitting screw driver...align the slot....done!

 

[Birddog6]

It is threaded in the wood, like a big wood screw. You have to predrill the hole, as it is too large to just screw in & would crack the stock. I drill the shaft size, less the threads, put some patch lube In the hole & on the threads & screw it down in. It ain't pullin out :shake: I assure you, as it is about 1 3/8" long.

Keith Lisle