Ray-Vigo
Yankee
I'm having major problems with a Caywood Fowler lock-- the jaw screw is frozen to the top jaw. I can't turn the screw and trying to buggers the head slot. Any suggestions for getting it free? Oil and heat don't seem to help so far.
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Frozen Jaw Screw
- Thread starter Ray-Vigo
- Start date
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Another suggestion is to drill a hole on the screw so that you can place a rod through it to provide more torque and don't use a screw driver. Atleast that is what I did. I used a 1/8 inch drill and use an Allen wrench for the loosening and tightening the screw.
I'm picturing an assembled lock with a flint in place, etc...if that's the case and you can't turn the jaw screw, what makes you think its frozen to the TOP jaw screw, and not the threaded BOTTOM jaw?Ray-Vigo said:
At any rate, if you take a small hammer and punch you should be able to tap-tap-tap the front of the flint side ways and pivot it out of the jaws, change the whole tension relationships between the jaw screw and both jaws...might work to your favor.
Ray-Vigo
Yankee
The screw turns a minute amount until the back of the top jaw hits the hammer spike behind it. I can see the threads turn slightly down in the bottom jaw area, but the top jaw is just turning along with the screw that minute amount until it backs against the hammer spike. I got the flint and leather out but it's still bound to that top jaw piece.
I tried an oil soak and it did not help. I've tried a heat gun, and that did not help either. It's a head scratcher-- never seen one like this before. I've seen screws get rust fused on the threads in the lower jaws in the past, but never something like this.
I tried an oil soak and it did not help. I've tried a heat gun, and that did not help either. It's a head scratcher-- never seen one like this before. I've seen screws get rust fused on the threads in the lower jaws in the past, but never something like this.
I wonder if its a simple matter of the jaw screw being pinch-bound at a slight angle into the hole in the top jaw...might be as simple as taking a light plastic hammer or something, and while firming holding/supporting the hammer, lightly/gently tap up or down on the thin end of the top jaw to see if that breaks loose any possible pinch-bind with the screw...
Put a piece of leather around it to protect it and clamp onto it tight with a pr. of vice grips.
Should turn out no problem. For future use put a hole thru it. A hole allows for a much tighter grip on the flint and leatherand easy removal.
Deadeye
Should turn out no problem. For future use put a hole thru it. A hole allows for a much tighter grip on the flint and leatherand easy removal.
Deadeye
Flintfan69
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It sounds like the clearance hole in the top jaw was drilled too small and has bound itself onto the shank of the top jaw screw. In a worst case scenario you might have to saw off the screw under the top jaw to remove it. It should be easy to get a replacement from Caywood, or if you can determine the thread size you could get a screw from another lock from a different manufacture. Check the fit of the screw to the hole in the top jaw, it should be a very loose fit.
Ray-Vigo
Yankee
I did not consider that possibility. Oil and heat did not help. I even tried taking a punch and hammer with pad and driving it down, with no luck. The hole idea sounds like a good one, though I'm somewhat pessimistic about the part on the whole. I do think I ought to convert my rifle over to a hole as well.
I have considered cutting it and regard it as a last resort. I have a dremel with bolt cutting wheels and a hack saw I can use. I suppose I could just cut it, then drill out the center of the screw and then put the punch in the hole and try to drive it from the top jaw. I can use the stone wedge tip in the Dremel to open the top jaw hole up a bit. I'd need a replacement screw from Caywood. The threads look markedly different from the Silers I have.
I have considered cutting it and regard it as a last resort. I have a dremel with bolt cutting wheels and a hack saw I can use. I suppose I could just cut it, then drill out the center of the screw and then put the punch in the hole and try to drive it from the top jaw. I can use the stone wedge tip in the Dremel to open the top jaw hole up a bit. I'd need a replacement screw from Caywood. The threads look markedly different from the Silers I have.
StewartLeach
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Oil and heat are good suggestions, as is driving the flint and pad out sideways. I suggest one other thing to apply in generous amounts- patience!
Appply penetrating oil- Kroil is the best- and let sit for a week or more. Gived the penetrant time to work its way all the way into the threads. May want to oil and set aside for a week several times. Better that than buggering the screw head.
If possible, secure the parts in table vise on a drill press, run a well fitted bit down into the slot with the quill, and hold downward pressure while turning the quill by hand. The presure from the quill will keep the bit from twisting up and out of the slot.
White Fox
White Fox
Appply penetrating oil- Kroil is the best- and let sit for a week or more. Gived the penetrant time to work its way all the way into the threads. May want to oil and set aside for a week several times. Better that than buggering the screw head.
If possible, secure the parts in table vise on a drill press, run a well fitted bit down into the slot with the quill, and hold downward pressure while turning the quill by hand. The presure from the quill will keep the bit from twisting up and out of the slot.
White Fox
White Fox
You said you used a heat gun for heat? Not nearly hot enough. Use a torch and heat the part up to a dull red. then use the oil while it is still hot. It'll soak right in. Freed more than a few frozen bolts that way while restoring old cars. :thumbsup:
ohio ramrod
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Kroil is the best thing I know of for corruded parts! Spray let soak and then if neccesary heat and spray again. :hmm:
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YES KROIL is the stuff to try. It has saved me many times!
I didn't get that it was an issue of anything being corroded...there aren't any threads in the top jaw, and the upper part of the jaw screw is just a smooth shank...I interpreted his situation to be that the screw & top jaw got pinched/bound up together...I might have misread it...maybe he'll post back and clarify.
Ray-Vigo
Yankee
I do not see corrosion on the screw in that area, so I'm not sure if it's that.
I have a small butane torch which I can try. I did not see any Kroil in Home Depot tonight when I went. I do have a bottle of liquid wrench though.
I have a small butane torch which I can try. I did not see any Kroil in Home Depot tonight when I went. I do have a bottle of liquid wrench though.
Ray-Vigo
Yankee
The answer, for those interested is:
"all of the above"--
The hole in the top jaw piece was indeed too small and it had bitten into the screw a bit. However, some corrosion was present at the same time. They combined into a couple hours worth of heating, oiling, and tapping. I have gotten it free though, thanks in large part to the advice I got at this forum. I opened the jaw piece hole up a bit and cleaned the corrosion off the screw shank. I then gave everything a drop of gun oil. I put the lock back in the gun and it seems to function fine. I plan on shooting it next weekend at a local monthly club shoot from 25 yards.
"all of the above"--
The hole in the top jaw piece was indeed too small and it had bitten into the screw a bit. However, some corrosion was present at the same time. They combined into a couple hours worth of heating, oiling, and tapping. I have gotten it free though, thanks in large part to the advice I got at this forum. I opened the jaw piece hole up a bit and cleaned the corrosion off the screw shank. I then gave everything a drop of gun oil. I put the lock back in the gun and it seems to function fine. I plan on shooting it next weekend at a local monthly club shoot from 25 yards.
Tumblernotch
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I've had the screw bind on an old Siler every once in a while. Like the others said, it gets bound up in the hole, but I only have that problem when I've had to crank down real hard on a flint with a big hump. That puts a heck of a lot of strain on the top jaw. If you don't want to drill the screw, I would suggest making an L-shaped screw driver that will give you more leverage for both tightening and loosening.
Until recently Caywood locks were made in-house. You can expect differences. I don't know what locks he is currently using.
Ray-Vigo
Yankee
That could well be the case-- this particular screw was unlike any of the others I have. I was very reluctant to just give up and cut it unless I had one on hand I knew for a fact would work. Thankfully the advice I got and hard work I put in paid off in the end. I'm looking forward to the shoot this weekend-- haven't shot this fowler yet.
