Frustrated - Hopefully just the growing pains of a newbie

[J.D.]

>>So this past weekend, I went out and shot the .58 cal Ardessa muzzleloader. After the first shot, it was extremely difficult to load and I only fired a few. This led me to determine that I obviously needed to give it a really good cleaning.<<

Is this a new gun, with a new barrel? If so, that barrel needs a good cleaning to remove machining oils, before any range time.
Though it sounds like you have the problem solved, at least for now.

 

[flconch53]

What size ball are you using?

 

[Antelope Pete]

Quote by Arkansas Paul
"I've read a thread on here about the same topic, and I'll try some of the things suggested like tying the rod to a tree and pulling on the rifle. That will probably get it out."

It was probably my thread. This is my 5th muzzleloader experience and it's still frustrating especially when you're not sure what the cause is. I'm still working on it but nothing for sure yet. If you figure it out let us know.

 

[waksupi]

I'm going to give you some advise, gained by decades of experience.
A couple things to avoid getting a jag stuck.
First, before you ever put the patched jag down the bore, pour in some water, put your finger over the muzzle, and tip it back and forth a half dozen times or so. Dump, and repeat. Do this until the water is coming back out fairly clean.
Then you can use your jag. You will have already eliminated the majority of the fouling in the bore.
If you would get a good tow worm and some tow, you would eliminate 95% of your cleaning problems, especially for those with patent breeches.

 

[Arkansas Paul]

What size ball are you using?

It's a .570 ball.
I haven't been out since then, but I have given it a good cleaning.

 

[flconch53]

It's a .570 ball.
I haven't been out since then, but I have given it a good cleaning.

I guess I would measure the bore. A .562 ball may be in order

 

[fishmusic]

Thanks a lot for the replies. A lot of valuable information in this thread for newbies.

Thankfully I have fixed the problem. I poured a good amount of Windex into the barrel and let it set for just a few minutes. I then pushed the ramrod gently to the bottom and it pulled right out, along with an outpouring of dirty liquid.
After that, I ran at least 10-15 patches with Ballistol down the barrel, followed by dry patches.

I've got it pretty clean now. It was very dirty, much more so than it should have been from firing 4 or 5 shots. No telling how dirty that thing was already.
But I'm on the right track now. I ordered a .50 cal jag. I'm going to try and use it with the Scotchbrite pads.

You have a good handle on what to do now that the jag is out. What are you using for a patch lube? I have used Dutch's "dry patch " method and had good success with it but it almost requires swabbing between shots. Swabbing can lead to pushing fouling into the breach causing misfires. I now use a 50/50 Murphy's oil soap and water to lube the patches because it softens the fouling. Also, I don't swab between shots but I pour powder first and then patch and ball and that puts the fouling on top of your powder so it doesn't clog things up near the touch hole.

 

[Arkansas Paul]

What are you using for a patch lube?

I'm buying pre-lubed patches with wonder lube.

 

[waksupi]

I'm buying pre-lubed patches with wonder lube.

I highly recommend to buy some muslin of the right thickness for patches, and use pretty much anything else than Wonder Lube or Bore Butter.

 

[Grenadier1758]

@Arkansas Paul, muslin is too loosely woven and often to thin to make a good patch. I'm with @waksupi in that the prelubed patching with wonder lube is not the best patching. The purchased patching may be old and Wonder Lube does cause deterioration while the package is in storage. I much prefer cotton drill cloth, pillow ticking, mattress ticking or denim material of 100% cotton of about 0.015" to 00.018" thickness . Damply lubricate the patch just prior to loading with a mix of dish soap and water (50%), or more exotic a mix of 5 parts water to 1 part of Ballistol.

 

[flconch53]

@Arkansas Paul, muslin is too loosely woven and often to thin to make a good patch. I'm with @waksupi in that the prelubed patching with wonder lube is not the best patching. The purchased patching may be old and Wonder Lube does cause deterioration while the package is in storage. I much prefer cotton drill cloth, pillow ticking, mattress ticking or denim material of 100% cotton of about 0.015" to 00.018" thickness . Damply lubricate the patch just prior to loading with a mix of dish soap and water (50%), or more exotic a mix of 5 parts water to 1 part of Ballistol.

I believe the same thing. If you want pre cut I believe Track of the Wolf has dry precut ticking. I am currently using olive oil because I found an expired bottle of it in the back of the cupboard. I have also used soap and water and sometimes just simple green. I you like the smell of wonder lube you can always rub some Bengal on your hand. The point is just lube lightly. I don't like the dry patch system

 

[waksupi]

@Arkansas Paul, muslin is too loosely woven and often to thin to make a good patch. I'm with @waksupi in that the prelubed patching with wonder lube is not the best patching. The purchased patching may be old and Wonder Lube does cause deterioration while the package is in storage. I much prefer cotton drill cloth, pillow ticking, mattress ticking or denim material of 100% cotton of about 0.015" to 00.018" thickness . Damply lubricate the patch just prior to loading with a mix of dish soap and water (50%), or more exotic a mix of 5 parts water to 1 part of Ballistol.

Muslin does come in different thread counts. I don't use it, but sounded like the OP does. I always thought it funny people would buy a hundred patches of exactly the same stuff for what they could buy a couple yards worth.
I've always stuck with the standard pillow ticking, and then finding a ball that fits correctly. My exceptions are for small bores like a .36 where I will use a thinner patch.