Full cock

[ronrryan]

I just got a smoothbore with an L&R Queen Ann lock. Lock holds full cock out of the gun. In gun, lock will not hold full cock, slips right off. I am not knowledgeable about lock geometry and would appreciate thoughts as to what might cause this, Thanks, Ron

 

[Leonredbeard]

ronnyman,
the wood inside the mortice might be interfereing with sear engagement. Try putting some inletting black on your sear and see if it touches the wood anywhere.
volatpluvia

 

[roundball]

Try putting the lock back in and only screw the lock bolt in until it just starts to get snug...do not tighten it hard...over tightening will warp/bind things causing problems like you described

 

[ronrryan]

Thanks, guys. I tried the partial insertion and a bunch of variations---no joy (Didnt the UCMJ say insertion, however slight...?) I will look at the wood, although I am not anything of a wood carver. Ron

 

[mloader40]

What type of trigger do you have single or double?
I had a pistol that acted similar to that, the trigger blade was to high and held up on the sear. Mt brother filed the trigger blade slightly, the sear fully engaged and the lock now works beautifully. If the lock works fine outside of the gun then the trigger blade height or adjustment is incorrect IMHO.
Good Luck,
BPWRL

 

[paulvallandigham]

If you can use a knife to spread butter on bread, you can use a knife to shave wood off a high spot. Just pull the Edge of the blade towards you to cut the wood. Use short strokes, lightly. If the edge is not cutting the wood, sharpen the knife edge again.

If you have an exacto knife, the blade edge is pushed carefully away from you. Shave the wood. Don't be cutting huge chunks out. Test after each shaving. Testing will tell you when you have removed enough wood for the sear bar to work correctly.

On all Lock bolts, and tang screws, you should use an awl, or scriber, to put a fine wITNESS MARK, usually on the screw-slot, and the adjoining wood or metal, so that when you put the bolt or screw back into the stock, the witness mark will tell you when to stop turning the screw, and KEEP YOU FROM TIGHTENING THE SCREW TOO MUCH. A LOT OF PROBLEMS THAT HAPPEN TO ml RIFLES ARE CAUSED BY MEN WHO HAVE TO TURN THAT SCREW JUST ANOTHER 1/4 TURN! TIGHTENING THE SCREWS CRUSHES WOOD, JAMS THE METAL PARTS THAT ARE SUPPOSE TO MOVE AGAINST WOOD IN THE MORTISE, AND STOP THE PROPER FUNCTIONING OF THE LOCK.

 

[MSW]

paul is probably right (he does that a lot, which is why you should heed his advice). i'd use the inletting black, and shave off just a little bit at a time, the do the witness mark trick. (don't hesitate to use a really bright flashlight to check out where the inletting black is marking the mortise- that sort of stuff can be surprisingly sneaky)

good luck with your project

msw

 

[Mike Brooks]

More than likely your sear is hanging up on wood in the sear hole.

 

[Old Salt]

I've been working on a youth gun with a Chamber's Queen Anne's pistol lock that gave me same problem. I filed the top of the trigger bar to help resolve the problem.

Look in the mortise where the sear engages the trigger. If the top of the trigger can be seen in more than half the hole while the trigger is fully forward then I'd say the top of the trigger needs to be filed down to fit under the sear. It is a common adjustment made on many guns with single triggers. You can use inletting black on the end of the sear to mark the trigger and get a good idea how much needs to be filed. As with everything, go slowly.

Wood interference and that remedy have been explianed pretty well.

Old Salt

 

[ronrryan]

Thanks to everyone...what a forum!! I am now taking some deep breaths. You never know...next step might be a KIT. Ron of the all thumbs in Fl

 

[TANSTAAFL]

Apply some transfer medium (Prussian blue, lipstick, candle soot and grease, etc) lightly onto the bottom of sear. Insert lock as normal, remove and see where the transfer medium shows, wood or trigger bar? This will make apparent where one needs to do work.


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H.L. Mencken