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fungus for fire starting

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George

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I've just finished reading Journey to the Northern Ocean by Samuel Hearne, and he had some interesting things to say about funguses used in northern Canada during mid-18th century. Those of you who live where birch trees or poplars grow might find his comments useful, or at least interesting.

Speaking of some Indians they met who had traveled westward to find some woods with birch trees, he said:

.... and as their woods contain no birch-trees of sufficient size, or perhaps none of any size, this party had come so far to the Westward to procure birch-rind for making two canoes, and some of the fungus that grows on the outside of the birch-tree, which is used by all the Indians in these parts for tinder. There are two sorts of these funguses which grow on the birch-trees; one is hard, the useful part of which much resembles rhubarb; the other is soft and smooth like velvet on the outside, and when laid on hot ashes for some time, and well beaten between two stones, is something like spunk. The former is called by the Northern Indians Jolt-thee, and is known all over the country bordering on Hudson’s Bay by the name Pesogan*, it being so called by the southern Indians. The latter is only used by the Northern tribes, and is called by them Clalte-ad-dee.

*The Indians, both Northern and Southern, have found by experience, that by boiling the pesogan in water for a considerable time, the texture is so much improved, that when thoroughly dried, some parts of it will be nearly as soft as spunge.
Some of those funguses are as large a a man’s head; the outside, which is hard and black, and much indented with deep cracks, being of no use, is always chopped off with a hatchet. Besides the two sorts of touchwood already mentioned, there is another kind of it in those parts, that I think infinitely preferable to either. This is found in old decayed poplars, and lies in flakes of various sizes and thickness; some is not thicker than shammoy leather, others are as thick as a shoe-sole. This, like the fungus of the birch-tree, is always moist when taken from the tree, but when dry, it is very soft and flexible, and takes fire readily from the spark of a steel; but it is much improved by being kept in a bag that has contained gunpowder.

Spence
 
tinderfungus0048dec01.jpg

039-2.jpg

http://www.wildwoodsurvival.com/survival/fire/tinder/tinderfungus/index.html

Why waste good cloth?
You can actually slice that second one thin when it's wet, dry it pressed so it's flat and strop a blade on it for a razor edge.
It's interesting that we need to "study" to find things that was common knowledge at one time.
 
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Please forgive my ignorance, but we have neither Birch or Poplar here. Is the tree in your photo's Birch? And does the same fungus grow on both trees? :v
 
Yup, those are birch, the one on top only grows on birch.
The bottom is just one of several types of "bracket fungi", that grows on lot's of stuff.
Use the link to search some more.
You guys down there have that "Touch Wood" pine tree, darn thing can burn freash cut/green wood.

The thing is folks back in the day didn't walk around with nothing, then suddenly decide they needed a fire and start looking for items. Needed material was gathered as it was found, with an ever vigilant eye, and stored away or keep somehow for future use.
Several of those bracket fungi can/will smolder like a punk for days, and can be carried from one camp to another.
 
Thanks for the quote! Finally, some documented history of what was used to catch the spark, and not the rote response, "well charcloth, of course..."

I have true tinder fungus, a nice piece actually, and it will not catch the spark from the flint & steel no matter how hard I try. Anybody know why?
 
It's typical in our neck of the woods too scrape the tinder fungas with the flint or your knife to gather a bit of a powdered pile, then strike the steel in such a fashion as to cast the sparks onto this pile.
(I learned from member Cutshurt)
Heres a U'tube where it's done at about the 3 min mark, and of course several more links are there for the viewing; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2KtVuUBAvY
 
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There are only two reasons that tinder fungus won't catch a spark and smolder: One: Its not tinder fungus; and two. Its not dry enough.

You do have to dry tinder fungus out to work the best. :surrender: :hmm:
 
We call them "shelf mushrooms" out here. But they can be found almost in any forest, just look at downed trees that have rotted, and close to the ground.
 
On another forum the recommendation was to grind up the tinder fungus to get it to catch the spark. I'll try that next and report... as soon as it stops raining here... geez....

I just received Keith Burgess' new book, "Primitive Fire Lighting", and will report what he says about this situation in his book.
 
I have not seen any growing in the Pacific NW but purchased some from a vendor and it does work as well if not better than char cloth from my limeted experiments
 
TG: Neither have I seen true tinder fungus (species name escapes me) in Oregon, although I have not specifically looked for it. Lots of "shelf fungi" or conks here of course, but whether they would make a superior spark catcher when dried and scraped, I do not know.
 
I have thought of trying some of our local fungi or powdered wasp nest but have yet to do so maybe someday...
 
The Cellulose in wasp nests are a fire RETARDANT- not an accelerant. You would do better if you simply find some birch bark and peal that off to use as tinder to catch sparks. :hmm:

You can DRY fungi, and bracts that grow on dying, or dead tree trunks,, charring them the same way that charcloth is made. They make good tinder that way.
 
I have a nice supply of "conk" or tinder fungus that was kindly sent to me by a friend in MI. It is very dry. I can take my knife and scrape off a small pile of saw dust like pieces, strike my flint a few times and it will catch a spark. I have also scraped and pounded some into small dust and charred it in a can like you would charcloth. It is exceptional at catching a spark when charred. Note in the quote above that he mentions setting it in the coals first.

I have experimented with catching a spark on a whole piece parhaps as big as an egg and it caught eventually and smoldered for hours until I finally had to put it out. I had to rough up the surface to get it to catch the spark. The stuff really works and is totally HC/PC.
 
laffindog said:
The stuff really works and is totally HC/PC.
Sounds like great stuff. The retailers certainly think so, Jas. Townsend & Sons sells it at $224 per pound.

Spence
 
I think that is where I got mine Bob, pretty spendy but you get several pieces for a few bucks best if ordering somethning else as usuall with small orders, I tried it while modern camping with the Mrs while teaching her how to do it without major hemoraging last summer but went to char when a crowd of kids gathered wanting to know what I was doing and then their parents gathered around, I let a few of the older ones try it with gloves on and a couple of parents also gave it a try and were amazed at how it worked.
 
If you want to see some stuff on Samuel Hearne.
Go to this youtube link.

Ray Mears retraces a route by Samuel Hearne on one of his voyages in the northern Canada.
It is part one of six
You would have to watch all six parts. But they show up in the margin on the right.

ENJOY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3S9hOGJg-2E

PJC
 
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I've used both the real stuff and shelf fungus. The real stuff I found while on vacation in Maine. The shelf fungus is found all over in my neck of the woods. I am always looking when out in the woods. They do work better dry. The real stuff does get the nod in my opinion as being easier to catch, but the other one is not hard. A HAND SIZE bracket has held an ember for me for about 6 hours allowing the fire to be transferable.
(prehistoric bic lighter) I tried this last year on a camping trip.
 

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