Some here, while being honest in appraisal, can appear that the comments are also quite 'brutal'. You're actually quite lucky that Mike Brooks is not around here to comment on it - yikes! My thoughts ...
WOOD - Way, waaaaaayy too much all over, a real FdC, especially if from Tulle, should be trim, trim, trim and be light! Definitely work the lock panels, but before you do, also read up on the sideplate and lock.
LOCK - File the lockplate flat (if you can), add facets to the pan, and then re-shape the wood surround to fit. Those panels are way too proud and large and reshape the elongated teardrop final on the rearmost end.
SIDE PLATE - The shallow 'S' shape is typical, where I believe a serpent would only be found on an English gun or a fancier filligree design one, in brass only, found on a Fusil Fin, which that is not and never can be, sorry.
BARREL - The tapered facets on the octagonal section should be at least 2-1/4" long to mate to that 1st wedding band. There should not be a 2nd wedding band, but alas there's nothing you can correct there.
UPPER FOREND - Remove wood (looking down from above) so that no more than 1/16"+ appears outside the barrel. Tapering best achieved by faceting, i.e., taking something 'square' then making it look octagonal for example, then adding more flats or facets between thise you also cut, to slim it down nicely in a controlled manner. Overall that forend should be sooooooo thin and light that you'd fear breaking it off .... if/when the barrel were not attached.
RAMROD GROOVE - I can't get a good look a the ramrod groove juncture, but sometimes cutting the groove tops to be shallower "shows more rod" and makes the forend appear to be slimmer.
LOWER FOREND - Key 'ask' here is, is the breech or octagonal section of the barrel tapered? If not, you can still slim the wood, but go sloooooowly, as it will be more diffiult to make that gradual transition to the slim upper forend, because you do not have a taper onthe breech section to follow.
You might at least be able to make it more representative of a French trade gun from the St. Entienne armory that was given to the Indians, but you won't be able to mimic a true Fusil de Chasse say from the Tulle factory.
Bottom line, go have fun with it and git her shootin'! Whenever I have someone question the architecture, authenticity or feature of one of my BP replicas ... I find that putting a roundball into the X-ring or bullseye 'offhand' from 25-yards, or longer distance, pretty much shuts them up ... LOL!
