Geometries of a flintlock

[bigted]

Just converted a southern poor boy rifle from cap to flintlock.

Used an L&R lock and just test fired it yesterday. Either I got a bad English flint or the geometry is off and it will be a flint eater.

Can someone kindly educate me as to the proper height and angle of impact ... or geometry of what is considered proper please.

Kinda new to flinters and just seeking information to increase my knowledge of the beast.

Thanks I advance. I appreciate your time and expertise.

Ted

 

[rchas]

A little more information is needed, I think.

Is the Flint sized properly for the lock?
Is the Flint bevel up or down?
Where is the Flint striking on the frizzen?
Is the frizzen rebounding, i.e. bouncing back to hit the Flint?

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

In general (and I say this because you will need to experiment a bit) the flint should strike about 2/3 up from the bottom edge of the frizzen.

 

[EC121]

The strike angle should be a slice not a straight-in hammer angle.

 

[david w]

Just converted a southern poor boy rifle from cap to flintlock.

Used an L&R lock and just test fired it yesterday. Either I got a bad English flint or the geometry is off and it will be a flint eater.

Can someone kindly educate me as to the proper height and angle of impact ... or geometry of what is considered proper please.

Kinda new to flinters and just seeking information to increase my knowledge of the beast.

Thanks I advance. I appreciate your time and expertise.

Ted

Please post pictures of the position of the flint position at half-****, and at full ****.

 

[bigted]

Will do. Prolly tomorrow

 

[Uncle Miltie]

Folks often over think this. Your lock already has excellent geometry. For me where the flint ends up is of primary importance, and I position flints in the lock so the edge of the flint ends up as close to [or slightly dipping in to] the pan as possible. Position your flint this way and you will be fine.

 

[bigted]

 

[bigted]

So the first picture is with the fired position (hammer down)

Second picture is in the half cocktail position

Finally third picture is at full ****.

 

[Shotgunblast]

You need a larger flint, but the flint that's on the lock can be repositioned better by using a bit more leather behind the flint or a toothpick. Use Uncle Miltie's as an example of the size of flint that is needed and how much flint should be protruding from the ****.

 

[bigted]

Thanks Shotgun blast. The stone in the jaws has been knapped. She is a fast lock and the rifle is pretty accurate. My question was concerning how fast the flint dulled and if there is maybe a fault of the geometry of this lock that may be hammering the stone or maybe I just have had a stone that was somehow faulty. It chipped nicely when I knapped it sharp again.

The length thing ... when installing the stone as far back in the jaws, the sharp edge sits around 1/16th from the frizzen at half **** ... this is with a new 3/4 X 7/8ths stone. Again this stone that is mounted has been knapped a couple times. I am cheap and want the most shots I can get per stone. She still shoots nice n fast even with this short stone.

I will try your suggestion tho. I will install a new leather and maybe a toothpick behind to position the stone to nearly touch the Frizzen when at half ****. Thank you for your suggestion.

 

[ord sgt]

Flints are always a curiosity. Some flints will last for many shots and once in a while, the edge will go away after one or two hammer falls. I have had both kinds over the many years of shooting flintlocks.
I will flip the flint over at times or knap the edge back as needed. Many flints have been worn to a nub, while others start giving me headaches two or three shots into a session at the range.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Thanks Shotgun blast. The stone in the jaws has been knapped. She is a fast lock and the rifle is pretty accurate. My question was concerning how fast the flint dulled and if there is maybe a fault of the geometry of this lock that may be hammering the stone or maybe I just have had a stone that was somehow faulty. It chipped nicely when I knapped it sharp again.

The length thing ... when installing the stone as far back in the jaws, the sharp edge sits around 1/16th from the frizzen at half **** ... this is with a new 3/4 X 7/8ths stone. Again this stone that is mounted has been knapped a couple times. I am cheap and want the most shots I can get per stone. She still shoots nice n fast even with this short stone.

I will try your suggestion tho. I will install a new leather and maybe a toothpick behind to position the stone to nearly touch the Frizzen when at half ****. Thank you for your suggestion.

We all want enonomy, but if you want consistant good ignition, then don't skimp on good flints. Can't see your flint width relative to the frizzen. Make sure your flint is as wide as the frizzen. After you get the flint figured correctly, and if still having issues, the mainspring and or frizzen springs may be too stout.
A too hard of a strike will eat more flint
Larry

 

[Rob M.]

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All looks good bud . Sorry your having troubles .

 

[Uncle Miltie]

Your flint is way to short: look how far your sparks need to fall before they hit the powder: slow ignition. Use a longer flint.

 

[Col. Batguano]

What kind of a lock is that? L&R? Davis? It doesn't look like a Chambers.

 

[Shotgunblast]

What kind of a lock is that? L&R? Davis? It doesn't look like a Chambers.

L&R

 

[Col. Batguano]

You might look up some of Dave Person's old posts about L&R locks. I believe he said that every one of them he's handled needed some tuning and adjustment before they performed reliably.

 

[akroguy]

I have an L&R classic that was piss poor for sparking with a brand new English gray. I installed a French amber and it came to life.

And put in the largest rock you can make work. If the leather is too thick, it could be blunting the strike. I notch the center of my leathers so that the stone sits against the jaw screw, which also gives more leeway lengthwise allowing a larger stone without causing frizzen interference at the half **** position.