glass-bed or not?

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lonewolf5347

40 Cal.
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I am switching a barrel from a t/c hawkens flinter lock @ barrel into a PA. hunter stock.I was thinking in adding some glass under the tang and also were the barrel wedge pin goes threw the barrel wedge area in the stock and full free float the barrel .??? :nono:
 
I would glass from about an inch infront of the wedge pin all the way back to the to the tang and float the front end. Works well.
 
lonewolf, I don't really understand your question or statement. Bedding is a good thing in my experience. You don't have to worry about gaps because of humidity changes swelling the wood away from the barrel. As far as floating muzzleloading barrels? Naw. I wouldn't concern myself with that.
 
I find a little creep from left to right on the barrel.Let see if I can explain it a little better.I find the stock without a metal foretip has a lttle movement from left to right when the barrel is drop into the stock.I was thinking in adding a little glass to fill the (wedge gap) ,so the barrel wedge would not have any play left or right while sitting in the stock.I also thought maybe just in front of the tang about 2" would work also,then free float the rest of the barrel from the sidewall of the stock
 
So your telling us the barrel channel is slightly wider than the barrel flats? I would pack every hole including the wedge slots and all screw and bolt holes with modeling clay and epoxy the hook breech to the barrel and make sure all undercuts and holes are filled with modeling clay on the barrel assembly as well. Use the release agent as directions state in the Acra-glas kit. If this rifle were mine I would glas the hole barrel channel and behind the breech. That will take the slop out of the barrel channel to barrel fit and you won't have to worry about humidity problems. I use the two elements (resin and hardener) without the fiberglas on my rifles. In other words your using the epoxy (glue) to seal the barrel channel. I hope this solves your problem.
Don
 
Use a two minute epoxy on your hook breech and tang assembly. After the Acra-glas sets up over night,and you tap the barrel and tang out of the stock heat up the tang with a propane torch and the tang will unhook from the breech. Clean all the epoxy off and the release agent off the barrel and stock and your ready to go. Another tip: after the barrel is ready to set into the stock with the Acra-glas in the barrel channel... use C-clamps at the breech and another one at the wedge to hold the barrel at the same pressure points the screws and wedges will apply. Have everything ready before you mix the Acra-glas so you don't waste time opening C-clamps and making wood pads for the C-clamps and ....... Just make sure everything works the way you want it to before you mix this stuff and you will do fine.
 
I am comming along quite well on the barrel swap from the hawkens stock into the white mountain stock.I ran into a little problem but it was repaired with a little glass bedding,seem I reinleted the lock a little to deep so glass was added to the lock now it seems to sit square.I also did install a steel butt plate that t/c used on the early renegade.I found that the tang did except alot of glass to take up the factory inletting.I also did decide at this point to free float the barrel and see how it shoots before adding glass to the barrel channel.
 
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