those that own one any advice? Thanks. SM
Thanks.SMYes, I have one:
View attachment 264644
... but no particular advice, except I hope you don't intend doing any competitive target shooting!!
But .. it's definitely FUN!!
I've been using 25 grains 3F load with a .690 ball and a 0.010 patch, but it's VERY tight, and I'm going to try a smaller ball.
I don't think the bore is very smooth; you might benefit from doing some bore polishing.
and recommendations on ball size and patches and ball loads?
Yes, I have one:
View attachment 264644
... but no particular advice, except I hope you don't intend doing any competitive target shooting!!
But .. it's definitely FUN!!
I've been using 25 grains 3F load with a .690 ball and a 0.010 patch, but it's VERY tight, and I'm going to try a smaller ball.
I don't think the bore is very smooth; you might benefit from doing some bore polishing.
I don't think much of the Pedersoli lead flint wrappers.The first shot from my Queen Anne sent the flint flying...
thanks.22 - 35 gr load 3F, 0.690 ball, and 0.010 patch are what's recommended in the Pedersoli black powder instructions manual. Like I said, with MY pistol, that's VERY tight and needs a mallet to get it started. Why I suggested the bore might need polishing. To the naked eye (my opinion) it looks pretty rough: visible machining marks, though they do go mostly along the bore axis. I've since done some minor polishing, but haven't had a chance yet to shoot it again to see if it made any difference. Let us know how yours goes.
I have a pistol-length range rod.Looks very nice; what do you use to load?
That .690 ball is likely a little snug even using a mallet. Might want to try a .490 ball and I used a thin .010 linen patch in mine.22 - 35 gr load 3F, 0.690 ball, and 0.010 patch are what's recommended in the Pedersoli black powder instructions manual. Like I said, with MY pistol, that's VERY tight and needs a mallet to get it started. Why I suggested the bore might need polishing. To the naked eye (my opinion) it looks pretty rough: visible machining marks, though they do go mostly along the bore axis. I've since done some minor polishing, but haven't had a chance yet to shoot it again to see if it made any difference. Let us know how yours goes.
Sorry, it was a typo, I meant .490. Nice catch.That .690 ball is likely a little snug even using a mallet. Might want to try a .490 ball and I used a thin .010 linen patch in mine.
I have a 5/8 French flint from Track on mine, and at half **** it just barely clears a closed frizzen. I suppose I could swap out the lead flint wrap for leather to get it seated a little further back, and also I think that would result in a little better striking angle.The half **** on many allows a regular flint to rest against/hold the frizzen open, a dangerous situation. If you find a source of flints that fit well stock up!
If you notice on some locks the **** has a radius behind the top jaw screw. The purpose of this half circle is so that leather can have 2 holes punched in it. This allows the top jaw screw to go Thru the leather and be secured in the ****. Flints can be changed without needing to adjust the leather and do sit a little farther back. It does place the back of the flint on the top jaw screw as well. I can't remember if pendersoli incorporated it into their lock or not. Source for this knowledge was from a lock recovered from a wreck circa 1700's. A time capsule . . .. . . I suppose I could swap out the lead flint wrap for leather to get it seated a little further back, . . .
That would be a great convenience, and thanks for mentioning it. I'll have to check mine to see if any have that. I do cut a little slit in the leather to allow for the width of the screw, and the flint to sit back against it, but that only adds a tiny bit of extra room. Going all the way through two holes in the leather would be a huge improvement, IMO.... Flints can be changed without needing to adjust the leather and do sit a little farther back. ...
I don't think the slit will allow the flint to move back any farther than the 2-hole method, since the flint can only go back as far as the screw.That would be a great convenience, and thanks for mentioning it. I'll have to check mine to see if any have that. I do cut a little slit in the leather to allow for the width of the screw, and the flint to sit back against it, but that only adds a tiny bit. Going all the way through two holes would be a huge improvement, IMO.
worn out welding glove IS your friend.I don't think the slit will allow the flint to move back any farther than the 2-hole method, since the flint can only go back as far as the screw.
The advantage of the 2-holes would be to hold the leather in place when moving or changing the flint. For that, I think it's a great idea!
Enter your email address to join: