Awesome, thanks! Got it!As an alternate, use a screwdriver and punch a couple of hole to pour from, leaving the lid in place. This approach minimizes open top surface area. But ultimately, just poke, punch and discard.
Stain isn't generally applied to the inlets because the aqua fortis that most people used on the originals, and yet today, will rust metal things when in long contact with that type of stain. Best to just apply some finish to those areas.Why not stain and finish the inside of the patch box and under the butt plate to prevent excess moisture absorption?
I'm just following what Jim said in his video demonstrating the finishing process on a woodsrunner. According to him Permalyn Sealer can be used as the final finish. I guess its the same as the Permalyn Finish, just thinner. I'm totally new to this, so just following his suggestions in the videos.That's looking very nice!
Will there be an oil or varnish as a topcoat, or is Permalyn the final product? (I'm clearly unfamiliar with it.) If so, you might notice a "lightening" effect by the amber tint or an increase in reflectivity/gloss. Sometimes an oil finish will act as a solvent and lift some of the darkness as you rub it in & wipe off the excess.
Again, I am not familiar with Permalyn...yet.
To help keep the remaining finish from hardening in the can, I typically take a deepish breath, hold it for a bit, then exhale into the container (without spitting!), then immediately slap the lid on it. I do this with all reactive finishes except latex paint.
The idea is that reactive finishes react with the oxygen in the air and transform into a new substance that is solid and resistant even to its own original solvent.
By exhaling into the container, one drives out the ambient atmosphere with its oxygen and replaces it with carbon dioxide. CO2 is inert and won't let go of any oxygen for the finish to react with. Even if you couldn't fill the can with your exhalation, CO2 is heavier than the N-O-and other stuff too-atmosphere and lays on top of the liquid like a blanket, shielding it from reaction.
Since I started doing this, I have oils and poly and paints that are up to a decade old and don't even have that rubbery or solid "disk" of hardened finish on top when I open the container.
I'll be looking forward to your range report!
I'm gonna say that's probably The Best course of action!just following his suggestions in the videos.
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