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GPR hammer is a drag

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davidjpoynter

32 Cal.
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My apologies beforehand if this has been covered elsewhere. This has been an ongoing problem since I've owned this rifle. The hammer will drag on the lock to the point of grinding off the browning. Should I shim the hammer or file down the hammer? Any help is welcome.

2013-01-01_09-54-31_254_zps48ca614e.jpg
 
I've never run into that circumstance.
If it was mine I'd go after the inside of the hammer with a dremel just enough to remove the drag if the hammer is square with the nipple.
Shimming could push the hammer out too far and force you bend it back
 
Excellent.... Didn't think about the hammer to nipple alignment. Grinding appears to be the best option so far.
 
IMO, trying to shim the hammer out will end in frustration.
The hammer is pressed onto a square drive on the tumbler so any shim would have to have a square hole in it to reside between the back face of the hammer and the 4 shoulders at the base of the 4 flats that form the square.

Like I mentioned, the hammer is supposed to be pressed onto the square drive on the tumbler and the four small surfaces should align the hammer with the face of the lock.
If the hammer was not fully installed, removing the hammer screw and then lightly tapping the rear of the hammer behind the screw to fully seat it will probably tilt the front side of it away from the lockplate enough to prevent any more rubbing.
This must be done with a gentle (for hammering) touch to not overdo it or break the tumbler.

The hammer is not hardened so the another "fix" would be to remove it and use a fine tooth flat metal file to remove some of the material in the area that's rubbing.

Removing the hammer is not difficult but it involves a lot more than trying to pry it off.
Prying the hammer off usually ruins the press fit between the hammer and the square drive.
More than once it has also resulted in breaking the square drive off of the locks tumbler.
 
Before grinding or anything, see if you can find out why it is dragging. It could be a burr on the hammer shaft allowing it to **** to one side. Maybe on the square of the shaft one side is not machined correctly. Could be the shaft hole through the side plate is not machined straight. Just a thought.
David
 
.Butt STOP and figure out the problems cause before you add to it.
If you remove metal from the back of the hammer do not remove it from the entire surface,,just the part that drags,,there should be/is obvious wear in the area that is dragging,,that is the stock removal area...
Word to the wise,It's easier to remove than replace,,,go slow.... Not grinding but file, slow stock, removal.this is a physical appearing malfunction.
 
Bend the hammer slightly and you will of taken care of the problem, without having to file anything.


snapper
 
Take the hammer off the lock. Place the bottom part of the hammer in a vice, I use pieces of leather for padding. I place the hammer in the vice so that the square hole is in the vice to keep that square.

I usually heat the hammer with a torch and either tap it or use a crecent wrench to bend it in the direction it needs to go. Pay attention to how much it needs to be bent before you take it off of the gun. You can use a straight edge and a ruler to see how much you have moved it.

snanpper
 
I usually heat the hammer with a torch and either tap it or use a crecent wrench to bend it in the direction it needs to go

You really need to heat it to at least dull red and bend only a tiny bit, just at the narrow part, cool, repeat if needed.

Most attempts at cold bending result in a broken hammer, I always hear from guys here and at `vous that tell ya to go ahead and cold bend a hammer.
19 time out of 20 it'll break.
 
Just so folks won't be confused, it seems this topic jumped the tracks.

It started with questions about the lower part of the hammer dragging on the lockplate and it seems to have morphed into a discussion about bending the upper part of the hammer to align it with the nipple. :shocked2:
 
Are all of the screws inside the lock tight and the hammer screw. If they are loose you may have play in the hammer. By the way is it tight when you try to wiggle the hammer? If all is well and it still rubs your talking about .002 or less on the hammer crain near the wear area. A couple of strokes with a fine file should do it. If the hammer is loose it may be cocking at times.

Geo. T.
 
Thank you all for the replies. After taking the lock completely apart I noticed that the tumbler sits crooked in the locks hole (as if the mainspring is pushing it and causing it to bind). All screws were/are tight. My next step will be to determine if there are any casting lines that are not allowing the tumbler/hammer to seat properly but upon first inspection there were none. If I can't motivate the tumbler to seat in its hole then a small amount of material from the hammer will be removed. Thanks again!
 
If you bend the hammer ,,it might not line up square with the nipple!!!!!Filing is the safest way to go..Good luck,,
 
Have you sent your picture to Lyman (excellent photograph by the way) to see if they will fix it for you? Preferably under warranty.
 
you might want to check and make sure the bridal screws arent loose on the insde of the lock :2
 
Thank you all for your input! I checked all the fasteners and none were loose. Also, no casting lines causing the tumbler have seating issues. What I did notice is a little looseness in the tumbler even with the screws tight (a little lateral wiggle). So My fix was two fold. First I shimmed the tumbler and for good measure made a few passes with a file on the hammer. I am re-browning as we speak. :thumbsup:
 
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