GPR kit question

[jtmattison]

I just got my GPR kit and I'm very pleased with the stock. It's a nice piece of wood.
My question is about the ramrod entry pipe and the nose cap. They need to be removed so I can finish them but they are pinned in place.
Anyone who has completed a GPR kit and dealt with this I would appreciate your input.

Thanks.

HD

 

[Moose_Meat]

May or may not be the correct way to do it but I did mine right in place. Brass cleans up quite easily.

Should ask Brass or Steel?

 

[cowpoke1955]

I'm in the middle of my first GPR kit also. I took a very narrow punch and punched them out. I saved the pins so I can reuse them after the stock and metal is finished. Kind of like the blind leading the blind, but that's what I did.

 

[jtmattison]

May or may not be the correct way to do it but I did mine right in place. Brass cleans up quite easily.

Should ask Brass or Steel?

Steel furniture.

HD

 

[jtmattison]

I'm in the middle of my first GPR kit also. I took a very narrow punch and punched them out. I saved the pins so I can reuse them after the stock and metal is finished. Kind of like the blind leading the blind, but that's what I did.

My pins are not set in all the way. They look as if the could be pulled out. I just didn't want to do it without some confidence inspired by my fellow shooters.

HD

 

[elbanma1]

On my kit I seem to remember pulling them out as you described. You could always drive them through a bit more with a small nail if necessary and then pull them through.

I think if you try to finish steet in place you will mess up the stock.

 

[mark/wi]

I put one together a few years ago. I pulled the pins, and had no problem. I would pull them out so you can do a nice job on the entry pipe and the stock. Mark/Wi

 

[Moose_Meat]

Hay Dawg what did you get for a kit?

Steel I think I would take them off.

 

[jtmattison]

Hay Dawg what did you get for a kit?

Steel I think I would take them off.

GPR .54 Flintlock.

I'm a little leary about pulling those pins. I need to find a very narrow punch.

HD

 

[captgary]

Left mine on while doing the final sanding then removed them for stock finishing and parts browning. Had to glass bed the nose cap, it was loose to start with. Came out real nice, good luck with yours. Pins were easy, used an old drill bit that was a little smaller dia. than the pin, ground the point off it before starting,then tapped a little ways then pulled with vise grips.

 

[jtmattison]

Left mine on while doing the final sanding then removed them for stock finishing and parts browning. Had to glass bed the nose cap, it was loose to start with. Came out real nice, good luck with yours. Pins were easy, used an old drill bit that was a little smaller dia. than the pin, ground the point off it before starting,then tapped a little ways then pulled with vise grips.

Thanks for the tip. I'll try the drill bit trick. My nose cap is nice and tight. I hope I don't mess it up.

HD

 

[elk_chaser1]

I built mt GPR .54 about a year ago, and I had a similar question. Just punch the pins out with something smaller diameter. Makes working on the entry pipe/end cap much easier. I left the endcap plain and polished it bright. I love my GPR...so will you!

 

[AeroncaTAL]

Dawg,
Just use a small punch (I got a cheap set at Harbor Freight) or a small nail and punch the pins out. Take it slow and easy and they will come out. Shouldn't be a problem at all. I left the cap and ramrod pipe on for sanding on my GPR, then took them off for staining and finishing. Good luck!
Scott

 

[Gordon Horn]

I left mine in place for sanding so the edges of the wood stay nice and sharp. For finishing I removed them. Use a 1/16" pin punch or something similar and tap easily on them till they are out far enough you can remove them by hand. After finishing you may need to take a 1/16" drill bit and reopen the holes in the wood for reinstalling the pins.

 

[Zonie]

IMO, leaving the hardware in place during the first phase of building the gun is a good idea.
This protects the wood in case you drop the stock on a hard floor and, more importantly it provides a guide to let you know how much wood to remove.

Nothing looks crappier than a stock which has had someone sand off too much wood and then stick the hardware back on it.

After the stock is sanded to blend with the hardware, then remove it using a pin which is slightly smaller than the guns pins and polish out the scratch marks in which were created by sanding the wood. While the hardware is off, apply the stock finish then reinstall it.

zonie

 

[jtmattison]

The pins came out easy.
When I put it back together should I bend the pins slightly so they hold tight?

Now another question, this one on browning. Should the lock be browned or left with the case hardened look? I want to brown the whole thing but I don't want to mess up the lock.

HD

 

[captgary]

I browned everything IMO it looked a lot better.
I did bend the pins very slightly.

 

[jim/wa]

i just finished mine drive the pins out be careful with the screws inthe escuthions replace with better screws they will break and then you will be drilling them out

 

[captaincaveman]

Hey Capt. that stock looks sweet. How did you finish it?

Josh

 

[AeroncaTAL]

I used naval jelly to remove the case colors, then used super blue rubbed back to get a gray look to the lock. I would say do whatever looks best to you. After all, you are the one who is going to shoot it.

Scott