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Red Owl

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Up to now I've been a percussion shooter. On flints, how many shots do you get before you have to put in another flint or knap, etc.? What do most of you do? Knap (and how do you do that ?) or just put in another flint? Thanks.
 
It sure does vary. I was looking through my records and the fewest shots on one flint was 2 (it broke) and the most was 169 with some knapping along the way. I would guess my average is around 50-60 shots per flint. But I run them till they're too short for the jaws to hold them. A lot of guys would probably discard them before I do.
 
IMO, flint life can be a function of the quality of the lock. With my Silers, L&R’s and more recently my Kibler, I generally expect 30-60 shots per English Black Fllnt(Fuller). I will knap if the flint is not sharp to the touch…until it doesn’t position to my liking in the jaws. .
 
@Red Owl I'm a relative newbie to flintlocks. I've been shooting them seriously for about 8 months now. On average I'd say I get about 25 shots per flint. As some have said I've had one break after a couple of shots. Some last a long time. I'm not good at knapping flints yet so I probably don't get maximum life from my flints.
 
I've had them barely manage 4 shots and a few that went beyond 100. Occasionally I've had a flint that self sharpens with each shot. They are rare treasures. I use them until the jaws won't hold them but never throw them away. On average I get 30 sometimes 40 shots before having to knapp the edge. I knapp flints in the jaws because that works for me.
 
Up to now I've been a percussion shooter. On flints, how many shots do you get before you have to put in another flint or knap, etc.? What do most of you do? Knap (and how do you do that ?) or just put in another flint? Thanks.
Highly variable. I have one rifle that treats flints gently and they spark forever. Another, a big fowler, eats flints, but ignition is reliable.

I don't really like sharpening flints on the gun, and avoid it if possible. Prefer to replace the non-sparker with a new or resharpened flint. I keep a couple of flints and screwdriver in the bowels of the bag. The one that wasn't performing is cleaned and evaluated at home, and knapped if there is enough left. Of course, there are always those time when you have 40 seconds left in a relay and rework the edge a bit with the rock in the lock.

Considering the price of #11 caps in my area, a $2 flint that lats over 20 shots is a better bargain.
 
IMO, flint life can be a function of the quality of the lock. With my Silers, L&R’s and more recently my Kibler, I generally expect 30-60 shots per English Black Fllnt(Fuller). I will knap if the flint is not sharp to the touch…until it doesn’t position to my liking in the jaws. .
Lock quality and tuning have much to do with flint longevity but I also have found from knapping experience that flint/chert quality as well as knapped shape have at least as much to do with how long they last and how well they produce sparks.
Some chert/flint is more brittle and course grained than other deposits, some is tough to work and other deposits very co-operative. Some will respond to heat treating and others unfazed by it.
Flint and chert have many character differences and how it responds to striking a frizzen . spark production and it's longevity is very much effected by it's make up and disposition and not just lock quality and tune .
A well tuned quality lock will make the most of what ever flint/chert it is fed but good rock will make a good lock really shine and even a fair lock, look pretty good.
 
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The last few issues of Muzzleblasts Magazine have had excellent articles by Fred Stutzenburger (apologize if I slaughtered the spelling) on lock geometry, function and spark generation. The angle of the ****, the temper in the frizzen, resistance of the lock to the flint hitting the frizzen all affect the volume of sparks and the life of the flint. The length of the flint, bevel up or down also have an effect. Knapping in the lock is no big deal once you get the hang of it. If you shoot timed matches or trail walks, you need to be able to keep it sharp in a minimum amount of time. A small brass knapping hammer will give you a sharp edge in a pinch and is much faster than changing a flint. If you have time to pursue a perfect edge, a knapping tool that looks like a very small screw driver will give you a nice straight edge on the flint. Lilke many flintlock related issues, you just need to do it for a while.
 
On YouTube, Bob McBride, Black Powder TV, has some good beginner videos covering flintlock basics, including flint knapping.

Also, check out Frontier Quest and Black Powder Maniac Shooter for flint knapping videos.

There are some others, but these came to mind immediately.
 
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Thanks, I'm really glad I asked the question. As a total Newbie I never knew that the quality of a lock can lead to more shots per flint. What I am thi9nking is, a good quality lock pays for itself by being easier on flints. Next question- I know nothing about knapping flints but it sounds like that is a required task- how difficult is it? Thanks.
 
Thanks, I'm really glad I asked the question. As a total Newbie I never knew that the quality of a lock can lead to more shots per flint. What I am thi9nking is, a good quality lock pays for itself by being easier on flints. Next question- I know nothing about knapping flints but it sounds like that is a required task- how difficult is it? Thanks.
Knapping flints is not that difficult. Watch a couple of the previously mentioned videos and you will be able to maintain a sharp edge on your flint.

Lock quality can be established by getting a quality lock or having one's lock tuned for best performance.
 
I almost never take a flint out to knap the edge, if I am at the range I lay the rifle on a benchrest pointing downrange and set the hammer at half **** and block the vent. I have a short piece of brass rod in each of my shooting bags that has a step filed in it, I put the small step on the dullest part of the flint (it usually is rounded off) and with one of my other fingers under the flint and hammer give the brass rod a small whack with a hammer I keep in my range box. This will usually knock off the rounded part of the flint and your back in business.

Sometimes more than one dull part needs attention.

If I am doing a woods walk I will pull the hammer back and while keeping the rifle pointed in a safe direction smack the flint at a downward angle with the back of my knife. This is not my preferred method as many times I miss the rounded part on the flint or knock off more than needed and I think it is hard on flints, but its quick and gets me shooting again quickly.

Using the first method I can get lots of shots from a flint. It is a learning curve and after a few hundred shots you will do it with out even thinking about it, easy peasy.
 
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