Gun Graying solution + method ?

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19 16 6

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I am seeking a Gun Graying solution + method.
Something put together from commonly available hardware store components & not specialist chemicals.
Something that gets the job done simply & cheaply enough & is repeatable as a repair over the first work done by the same method.

I don't really want dark colour but a nice soft gray patina that looks old.
Anyone out there who can help me please ?
O.
 
Some people like Birchwood Casey's Super Blue, then cut it back with scotch bright pads . . grey one's I think . . white is too soft and green is too coarse.
 
Blacking Process

1. Apply Laurel MT stuff and let sit until rust forms
2. Once rust forms boil\steam for ten minutes
3. Card off rust
4. Repeat as desired

You will begin with a light grey....or Patina color. If you want it to be darker, just repeat the process again and again until you get the grey or dark grey you want.

I did this to my first pistol\Flintlock build. Yes, the mistakes are obvious, but the barrel and lock and furniture came out to what I liked.

FWIW

gTo05A8.jpg
 
Historic house parts brass darkening solution. It makes what you want on steel. Also darkens brass. Rub it back with scotchbrite to give an aged effect.
 
I like the sound of using vinegar.
Could you please tell me more of the method.
O.
 
Thanks. Like the vinegar, the phosphoric acid is like I asked for. A hardware store product.
Could you please tell more on the method of use.

I know that some of these other products mentioned will also work, & I thank you for making mention.
But, you see, I cannot readily get those products.
They are not stocked here in my land that I inhabit.
I already have the dragon tooth & I can get goats bile & twigs of yew, frogs legs & eye of newt to make a brew. But not a lot else.

O.
 
LOCTITE NAVAL JELLY ® is primarily phosphoric acid.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/LOCTITE-1...MIiOy4xZOd2wIVl7XACh2CkQ4uEAQYASABEgJGRvD_BwE

It is made for removing rust from steel or iron parts and is available almost everywhere in the US.

If it isn't available down under, look for a similar rust remover product. Almost all of them contain phosphoric acid.

NAVAL JELLY is a thick solution that is brushed onto rusty metal and if it is applied to a unrusted steel/iron surface it will lightly etch it leaving a gray look.

It can be quite aggressive so if it is left on the surface for any length of time it will begin to eat the surface metal away leaving a rough etched surface which IMO is not suitable for guns.

Almost any acid will etch steel including the vinegar mentioned. Lemon juice is another acid that might be used.

The big problem with using vinegar or lemon juice is they both will evaporate and once dry they won't do much unless they are dampened again.

If you have something made out of mild steel, you might try sanding it to a condition that is similar to your gun and then trying the acid on it. A bit of experimenting will give you a good idea of what you can expect.
 
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To do a nice aging/antiquing job.....
Brown first, waaaaaaay beyond what is normal. Don't card between coats. Let it pit, and pit deep.
Then,,,,, sand it all off, leaving the pits.
Then,.... blue with cold blue, and scrub back with skotchbrite pad and your favorite rust preservative. I use Breakfree CLP.
Very durable, looks like a 200 year old, well taken care of gun.
 
stubshaft said:
Just don't rub it in too long it may get a copper cast to it.

I'll watch for that. I ordered a quart. I have not messed with it yet.

It is what Jim Kibler uses. He is one of the top makers. I like his finishes. Check his website to see if you like the result. IF so, maybe try some?
 
19 16 6 said:
Thanks. Like the vinegar, the phosphoric acid is like I asked for. A hardware store product.
Could you please tell more on the method of use.

I know that some of these other products mentioned will also work, & I thank you for making mention.

O.
I just use a swab or a small brush. Let it sit for a while until you are happy with the look and then wash off with running water. Spray with WD 40 or something similar and you will be good to go.
 
NO!

Sorry to shout....vinegar will bead up and give your steel the Measels.

So the vinegar works but won't stay in a layer....solution....yellow mustard.

Yes the condiment! Get a cheap, store brand jar of the stuff at your local market. After degreasing the barrel, simply layer it on in a thin layer with a finger, and hang the barrel muzzle down via the tang screw hole and let it dry to a hard condition....might take a day or two. It will harden and turn brown. then scrape it off with a dry toothbrush and repeat. It will give you a stain on the metal, and after several applications, you then can "polish it back" to the level that you need.

Works very well, as I've done several muskets and trade guns and rifle barrels/locks for folks who wanted their stuff to look like it's been in the field for some years. If you don't like then polish it back to bright and try something else.

PLUS it's not toxic, and yes ketchup will work but it often attracts ants and mayonaise will work but as it dries it goes rancid .....see when I first started putting patina on barrels, and using mustard after trying the other stuff, I had a 2 year old boy who was into everything, and dried mustard is just dry..., he's 18 now...but only slightly more cautious than when he was 2.

LD
 
I'm curious and learning here too . . . Have you ever used mustard on a new lock plate and hammer as well as a barrel so that they match ??
 
Not sure this picture shows much but this is my Rice smoothbore barrel for my Chambers' PA fowler . . . coated with Mustard for 24 hours hanging in my somewhat humid garage.

My degreased barrel reacted very quickly to the mustard . . . almost right before my eyes.

I will see pretty soon if this method gives me a somewhat aged barrel look. . . as has been described on this thread.

IMG_2189_zps8lpuomut.jpg
 
I got a great aged look when I removed the mustard . . . I am worried that it will disappear though, as soon as I oil it. . . guess there's only one way to find out. . .
 
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