I was looking at a older (maybe 1970's) T/C Hawkin flintlock, but when you pull the trigger the hammer won't fall. The flint doesn't strike the frizzen, it just goes to halfcock. This happens both when you use the set trigger first and when just the front trigger is pulled. I tried maybe 25 times and the hammer did indeed fall properly maybe 3 times or so. Thanks.
-
Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.
We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.
Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103
Hammer Won't Fall
- Thread starter rancher
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
Ft. Jefferson
40 Cal.
- Joined
- May 5, 2010
- Messages
- 375
- Reaction score
- 3
Probably missing the fly in the lock, or it's just plain worn out. Not to fear, it's easily replaceable.
pa woods roamer
40 Cal.
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2005
- Messages
- 460
- Reaction score
- 22
Just send the Lock into T/C Arms. They have a lifetime guarantee. I just sent one in and they refurbished it and it works great.
longcruise
70 Cal.
Try removing the lock and checking all the internal screws for tight. Just a bit of loose in those TC locks will do that. If that's not it, check with TC. If it won't fall without the set trigger then it's probably not the fly.
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2008
- Messages
- 1,939
- Reaction score
- 2,187
Trouble could even be that the lock screws are too tight , causing parts to rub on the wood under the lock.
ohio ramrod
75 Cal.
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2008
- Messages
- 7,473
- Reaction score
- 2,209
T.C repairs them at no cost. Getting parts will cost. What is the question? :hmm: :hmm: But before sending it back have you checked to see if the lock functions properly outside the rifle? If it does there may be a piece of wood binding, or the lock retaing screw is way to tight.! :hmm:
rancher said:
Thompson Center will not replace, for free, any lock that has been tampered with or miss-used. Technically they only warranty the "original" owner but I have found them to bend over backwards to please people. If it is a early model rifle it is probably the old style lock and a new style is a much better lock.
TC is in the middle of moving it's operation and maybe slow to respond. I fear the days of them making any sidelock may be numbered.
robinghewitt
62 Cal.
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2004
- Messages
- 2,605
- Reaction score
- 22
ord sgt said:
Agreed :thumbsup: **** catching on half ****, 9 times out of 10 overtight lock screws bending the plate.
BEP
40 Cal.
The first thing that I'd do is remove the lock and completely degrease and re-oil it. Your problem is almost certainly caused by the fly not blocking the half-**** notch in the tumbler when the sear is tripped. De-gunking - especially since it's an older lock - could be just the ticket to deal with this problem.
I anm a firm believer in trying the simple solutions first. This is where I'd start. Good luck.
I anm a firm believer in trying the simple solutions first. This is where I'd start. Good luck.
Had a similar problem with a percussion Renegade. Found a couple of screws loose. Put some blue Lock-Tite on the threads and tightened them down. No further issues with the lock.
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2008
- Messages
- 1,939
- Reaction score
- 2,187
This is an OLD thread from 2010
Yup... and most of the advice was on the order of "send it back to T/C and they will fix it under warranty". We all know how that would end. Only wish I knew what the thingamajig that the screws held down is actually called. Also, discovered that T/C locks are often similar, but not identical, so swapping out a Hawken lock for a Renegade lock might not actually work as well as one might think. T/C apparently used HotGlue to add material to fit the tang into their guns. I found that mildly disappointing... though I guess it worked OK.
Happy thirteenth anniversary post.
