I’ve been a caster for some time. I’ve learned to master powder coating as the best alternative to shooting lead. Does anyone in the community powder coat their lead balls for muzzle shooting or is that too taboo?
So to your point KISS? Keep it simple stupid. Makes senseNo reason to. The patch prevents leading.
True and true but maybe not so much as a rifling issue. Atleast not in a modern weapon but maybe in a musket? Maybe worth an experiment some day. I’ll add it to the list.Only reason I could maybe see is to increase diameter some but seems like a lot of work for that. It may also make it harder for the rifling to impress into the ball also.
No, never had that issue. I’ve cast and powder coated thousands of projectiles. From 800 fps in 38spl to 2300fps in .223. Zero powder coat residue. If I shoot it, big bore or small bore, cast and powder coat is just what I do, otherwise it would just be too easy. Ha!I think some of the modern m/l guys do it…
Personally I can’t see the advantage in doing it..
Cleaning the burnt paint from the rifling could be more of an issue than cleaning out the lead…
I’m replying to this because I really am a newbie to shooting musket balls. In my common sense thinking, with the patch the ball really doesn’t engage the rifling right. I can’t see running a patched ball large enough to engage the rifling able to actually stuff all the way down. When I loaded my 45cal the other day, the recommended.020” patch wouldn’t let me do it. Found some linen at .012” which worked. Will try .015” soon. With no patch, the .440 ball enters without resistance and with zero wiggle room. So, when you say never touches the bore, you also mean rifling as well right?Since the ball never touches the bore I cannot see a reason to do this other than to increase the size by a couple of thou.
Right. With a proper patch and lube after being fired the patch should be intact. No tears or holes where the ball could touch any part of the bore. Start with some .015" pillow ticking. It provides the seal needed to propel the ball. Dozens of lubes out there for the patches. Some common ones, spit, dawn and water, ballistol, mink oil, windex. Check around and use whatever you think works best.I’m replying to this because I really am a newbie to shooting musket balls. In my common sense thinking, with the patch the ball really doesn’t engage the rifling right. I can’t see running a patched ball large enough to engage the rifling able to actually stuff all the way down. When I loaded my 45cal the other day, the recommended.020” patch wouldn’t let me do it. Found some linen at .012” which worked. Will try .015” soon. With no patch, the .440 ball enters without resistance and with zero wiggle room. So, when you say never touches the bore, you also mean rifling as well right?
Thanks, so I’m not crazy. So, this kinda answers my original question. Really isn’t a need or an advantage to powder coating, except as mentioned.Right. With a proper patch and lube after being fired the patch should be intact. No tears or holes where the ball could touch any part of the bore. Start with some .015" pillow ticking. It provides the seal needed to propel the ball. Dozens of lubes out there for the patches. Some common ones, spit, dawn and water, ballistol, mink oil, windex. Check around and use whatever you think works best.
Are you using a patch with the powder coated balls?Thanks, so I’m not crazy. So, this kinda answers my original question. Really isn’t a need or an advantage to powder coating, except as mentioned.
Pillow ticking patches was my original find.
I have powder coated 445 balls and 50 cal 370 grain Maxi balls.I’ve been a caster for some time. I’ve learned to master powder coating as the best alternative to shooting lead. Does anyone in the community powder coat their lead balls for muzzle shooting or is that too taboo?
I can’t see any other way to do it. If it were a mini ball and coated then maybe not, but as of yet, I have no experience with either.Are you using a patch with the powder coated balls?
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