Hatfield rifle

[Stoney]

Hello all
I have a Hatfield 50 cal whth lock problems. A common thing to happen to Hatfields I'm told. I am looking for a gunsmith who can fix the lock or someone who can convert it to a flintlock for me.

Thanks for your help. Stoney

 

[Haggis]

The Hatfield gunshop is in St. Joseph, Missouri; or at least it was twenty years ago when I was out there hunting squirrels with my old .45.

I'd say first try to give them a ring, maybe they can put you back in business quicker and cheaper than some others.

 

[Stoney]

Haggis, they closed up shop years ago and spare parts are getting real hard to find. Thats why I would like to find a lock to fit this rifle. I have been told by one gunsmith that he doesn't think this will be possible due to the size of the Hatfield lock.

 

[tg]

You might get a hold of L&R or RE Davis lock companies and see if they have something that will fit or could be made to fit, I think iyt would be something along the lines of a Ketland lock depending on the time the gun was made.

 

[Stoney]

Thanks tg, I'll check out those companies, I would still like to have a smith do the work on the rifle as I have no experience at working on Blackpowder locks.

 

[squirejohn]

Stoney - Check out Richard Beauchamp in Mass. He sells replacement locks for Hatfield. Phone # 413 698 3822 He advertises in Muzzle Blasts. I believe the locks are manufactured by Pedersoli; they're good locks.

 

[Haggis]

I gotta get ot more, sorry for trying to throw you a detour. I liked the old man Hatfield. He was a corker. Sorry to hear that their rifles aren't being made any longer, they were handsome.

 

[Stoney]

Thanks squirejohn ,Ill give him a call after the holidays.The stock on this rifle is a beautiful curly maple and I can't wait to get it fixed and back out to the shooting range again.

Haggis, Hatfield sold the business to an outfit called Missouri River Rifle Works, and they no longer make the Hatfield as of 1996 or 1997.

 

[Deadeye]

You didn't say what was wrong with the lock. Have you taken the lock out and inspected it to see what is the problem. Might be something simple.
I'm a gunsmith and I bet there a many gunsmiths in your area that can fix that lock. A good smith can make any part of a lock or alter a part from another lock if necessary.
Deadeye

 

[musketman]

It may be nothing more than a loose screw that allowed a part to become unseated.

Check the tightness on the screws of the lock, it could save you a few bucks in the long run.

 

[Stoney]

Ok guys, I took the lock off and found the problem. It does not appear to be the lock at all. The Lock is an L & R by the way.

The problem is the trigger, it's a set trigger mechanism that has disconnected from the lock. I got it working again but after five or six times dry firing the trigger malfunctions again and disconnects from the lock.

I tried to get it working but get the same results after three times. Any ideas

 

[musketman]

Most triggers and locks are not conected to begin with, so here is what I think might be going on...

1. Check the trigger adjust screw, (usually located between the two triggers) it could be set too fine or heavy, causing the trigger to misfunction...

2. Check the screws and the wood holding the trigger assembly in place, does it wiggle, is it loose, is the wood cracked?

3. Check the path of the triggers arm, (the part that hits the lock's arm to activate the lock) is there any wood splinters in the way preventing freedom of movement?

4. Work the set triggers without the lock installed, you should see the trigger's arm come up where the lock's arm would be.

5. Lastly, the screws on the back of the lock may be too tight, the trigger may be working fine, it just may not have enough force to fire it...

Please check a few of these things and see what happens, and let us know...

Good luck...

 

[Stumpkiller]

Here's a link with some info on Hatfields. They're out of business yet again. The one I saw in person was a fine shooting flintlock and the owner loved it. Guess they had some good and bad days.

http://www.muzzleblasts.com/Vol3No1/Articles/MBO31-2.htm

According to this article they used L&R Locks, which means you may be in luck. I recommend you find a gunsmith. I can't picture what you are referring to whan you say: "The problem is the trigger, it's a set trigger mechanism that has disconnected from the lock. I got it working again but after five or six times dry firing the trigger malfunctions again and disconnects from the lock." Could be something as easy as a stripped out wood screw holding the trigger plate in position. A well made rifle has the tang bolted to the trigger plate and two bolts between the sideplate and the lock. Metal to metal with the load spread out over large areas of wood. Wood can wear and compress or strip away once any motion among the components begins.

Purty wood does not a rifle make.

 

[tg]

If the lock you have is like one I had on a similar gun there is a tiny allen "backlash" screw
on the bottom of the trigger plate that can cause grief if not properly set.

 

[Zonie]

Stoney: You didn't say what you did to get the trigger working so all I can do is guess.
One guess is that the trigger bar (the rear or set triggers vertical blade) that swings up and hits the sear arm is hitting some wood during its upward swing (sometimes the trigger plate will move toward the butt when it's cocked or "set" because the screws are not tight. This can keep the trigger bar from hitting the sear arm). To see if this is happening, with the trigger NOT working, remove the lock and look thru the hole in the wood that the sear arm goes thru. Pull the rear trigger while looking thru the hole and see if the trigger bar is moving upward at least up to about the center of the hole. If it seems to hang up on something then remove the trigger and look up in the slot to see if some wood looks like it was hit with something. If it does, remove the wood and reassemble the gun. It may be fixed.

A worse case is if the trigger bar is too far forward to actually hit the sear arm. If this is the case, you can bend the sear arm forward just a little and it will make contact with the trigger bar. The finger on the sear arm on a L&R lock is not real hard so it can be bent forward a little without breaking it. Just don't get too carried away or you may break it back where the screw is.

 

[Birddog6]

I suggest you call Cain's Outdoors (used to be MSM) and talk to Ed Cain about it. He has worked on lots of Hatfields & had one on the bench he was changing the lock on when I was there last time. If the coc is not latching, could be the sear speing is cracked or broken, as that is what was wrong with mine & Ed sent me a new spring, as he has parts for those rifles.
Here is his telephone # 304- 375-7842


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[Stoney]

Thanks for all your post's guys, whatever the problem is ,it's beyond my limited ability to fix. I'm taking a drive up to Lodi Ohio to the Log Cabin Shop sometime this week to have the Smith take a look at the rifle.

I'm told the Smith there is pretty good.

 

[Stoney]

Birddog6, is Cain's located in West Virginia ?

 

[musketman]

quote:Originally posted by Stoney:
Birddog6, is Cain's located in West Virginia ? Yes it is...

cainsoutdoor.com. Route 2 Box 154-1 Williamstown, WV 26187 (304)375-7842

http://www.cainsoutdoor.com/cart/asp/item_index.asp

 

[Birddog6]

Yes, it is in Williamstown, WV and just of I-77 one exit South of the Marietta exit. Just take the Flass plant signs & at the light where ya turn into the glass plant don't turn, just go straight down the road 2-3 miles & it is on the left side of the road up on the bank. Take your wife & drop her off at the Fenton Glass Plant & she can look around there while you get Ed to look at the rifle. The guys at Log Cabin can fix it I am sure, should that be closer to you.

Ed Cain (Cain's Outdoors / Mountain State Muzzleloading) does have a beautiful custon made Hatfield on his wall in the shop. It is a special commerative & was a gift to MSM for 25 years of business or something like that. It is by far the finest Hatfield I have ever seen..

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