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Hawk Band Inlay

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kmeyer

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Has anyone here done this? I order parts to make a hawk and want to make 2 bands on the handle. The guy at TOTW explained the process a little to me. I also order pewter bead to melt and pour. Has anyone here done this? Is it tough? Any advise or directions are much appreciated. Thanks.
 
I have not done this but I can tell you to under-cut the area (dove-tail it) in the wood that the pewter is going in, this will keep the inlay from slipping out once cooled.
 
Thats what the guy from TOTW told me as well. I must admit though I cannot see why. If it wraps all the way around the handle, how can it fall out?
 
It will help keep it from turning, plus the handle is tapered and depending on the depth of the inlay, it could slip...

Undercutting makes for a more solid inlay, that's all...
 
I will give it a shot. I'm a little concerned about the process of pouring it. The guy from TOTW said it needs to be poured all the way around in one pouring. I'm not sure how this is gonna work. I ordered one of their books that is supposed to go over this, but was hoping someone here has done it.
 
When you cut the inlet, cut it at 90o to the chosen depth, which I would recommend at 3/32" to an 1/8", then under cut at the bottom of the side of the inlet. A few drilled holes would also help lock it in. They don't have to be deep. If you were to dovetail the entire side wall, it would end up a ragged mess when you did the clean up.
 
kmeyer said:
I will give it a shot. I'm a little concerned about the process of pouring it. The guy from TOTW said it needs to be poured all the way around in one pouring. I'm not sure how this is gonna work. I ordered one of their books that is supposed to go over this, but was hoping someone here has done it.

I would suggest that you wrap the area to be filled with tin or aluminum from a can, bind it tight with heater hose clamps so none of the molten pewter can leak out, leaving a small hole on one side to pour it into the depression...

This will keep the metal from running out while it's still in the liquid state...

Once hard and cool, remove the tin and finish smoothing the bands...

Below is a link for pewter melting points for castings, this brings me to this question, will the molten pewter be hot enough to set the handle on fire?

Melting Point
 
kmeyer,
Here are a couple I finished recently. If your pouring a ring then undercutting is not important IMHO. However, even a ring may wiggle unless you have something of a small lug cut into it somewhere. The process is not hard. I assume you purchased the small book TOW sells. It is great and will help a lot. Here are a couple of helpful hints for when you get ready to pour the bands.
If the pewter is to hot it will scorch the wood. If it is to cool then it will not pour all the way around. Test it with one of those round maple tooth picks. When you put it in the molten pewter it should take a couple of seconds to scorch. If it scorches the toothpick right away it is to hot.
I use thick cardboard to wrap around the handle and make a form. I use masking tape and duct tape to seal it all down. When you think you have it sealed then wrap it a little more. The stuff will find a hole and get out. Or melt its way out.
Take a #2 pencil and color your mortise in. I have been told the graphite helps the pewter flow. Maybe it does ...Maybe it doesn't. I don't take a chance.
When pouring I wear long sleeves, gloves, face shield and a hat. Even the smallest amount of moisture will cause the molten pewter to pop and splash out. No sense taking a chance.
I think that should help. Feel free to ask more questions or PM me an I wil be glad to share what I have learned.
PD
WeepingHeart2.jpg
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HBForge01002.jpg
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Wick,
They are both cast heads. The top one is from R.E. Davis and the bottom one is from H.B.Forge. Thanks for the compliment.
 
WOW...Packdog, those are excellent. The top one is similiar to what I was planning, but with thinner rings and a different stain. Kinda like what is on the front of the book TOTW sells. That is the book I ordered. Did you also pour the mouth piece?
 
kmeyer,
Thanks. Yes, I poured the mouthpiece also. You can see with a little imagination you can get a lot of different looks. The Chevrons look nice and it is real easy to cut and pour. Try and leave yourself some final sanding to to before pouring. When rasping and filing the pewter you will probably get somescratches in the wood.
PD
 
When I cast rings on knive handles and end caps, I use heavy paper to wrap the area to be molded. I is much easier to use than tin or cardboard and I have never had the molten material burn through. I use heavy grocery bag paper
 
Whiskey is right. I went back and read what I had posted. When I said thick cardboard, that is not right. The stuff I use is the cardboard that sandpaper comes in. It's not thick carboard compared to a box that's for sure. Sorry about that.
PD
 
Thanks for all the input. I'm still waiting on the parts. This should be fun little project between guns:)
 
Nice looking hawks......and this post is timely for me as I am working on mine at this time. Now I have "hawk envy!" :bow:

TexiKan
____________________________

If you continue to do what you've always done, you will always get what you've always got.
 
Ok....I received my package a did aonce over on the book. I will read it all later tonight. I only got 1 bag of the pewter which is 1/4 lb. It does look to me like it's enough? I plan to do 2 or 3 bands and maybe a mouth piece. How many bags did you use Packdog? Also, how long is your mouthpiece? Thanks.
 
kmeyer,
The mouthpiece is probably around 2 inches. I'm guessing. The Hawk has already been packed and off to it's new owner. I hate to say this but I could not say how much pewter I used exactly. I buy it in 1 lb ingots (yes it contains lead that way) and keep 1/2 lb or better in my melting pot. If I had to guess I would say I used a little over 1/4 but not quite a 1/2 lb. I haven't seen the pewter beads in 1/4lb bags? The couple I have bought have been 1/2 lb. There is a good bit of waste each time you do a pour. If your careful you could recover some of what you file and rasp off and stretch it out.
Hope that helps some.
 
The head of mine is PIPE-D from Track of the Wolf. It isn't in their printed catalog but it is on their online one. The throat of the bowl is very small and drilling it was left to a friend. It looks very similiar to the second hawk on your photos. The steel is a bit harder than I expected.

I did order the pre drilled hawk handle.

TexiKan
 
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