Heavy Trigger

[Hoyt]

I got my Buck's County buttoned up today..everything but nosecap anyway. However by the time I got the simple single trigger ground down where the lock would fit..I got a 12lb. trigger pull.
Is there anything I can do to lighten the trigger? The only option I know is to grind more of the blade off and I think that would make it worse.
I'm stuck with the posistion, but was wondering if I filed a downward slope towards the front of trigger if it would do any good.
Thanks for any help on this..I'd like to knock about 9lbs. off this trigger pull.

 

[albert]

it sounds like you got the sear too far back from the pivot of the trigger,leverage is working against you.It is possible to make another sear that is shorter,is doing so you could probably improve it a lot.

 

[Hoyt]

That's what I did Albert..I was just hoping I could file it one way or another and make it better.

 

[AeroE]

Just filing isn't going to correct the pull. The trigger needs to contact the sear bar as near the pivot as possible to work with a small trigger pull. This means shortening the sear arm or moving the trigger pivot.

You might also look at the sear notch (too deep or not shaped correctly?) and spring (too stiff?).

 

[rich pierce]

I agree, move the pivot point backwards. Even a quarter inch may help.

 

[Zonie]

Unless you have access to some tool steel, or mild steel and Kasenit your going to have a hard time making a new sear.
The nose angle and location on the sear are critical to the proper functioning of the lock.
I would not recommend trying this method.

As was said, moving the pivot of the trigger closer to the existing sear arm is the easiest (and best) thing to try.

Some trigger plates have enough material aft of the existing pivot pin to just allow you to drill a new hole thru it and the trigger. The further aft (closer to the sear arm) the pivot is, the easier the trigger pull will be.

If there is not enough material in the trigger plate, you might think about drilling the pivot point directly in the wood.
The pivot pin would then go all the way thru the stock, passing thru the hole in the trigger on its way.

Not the best solution, but I've seen it done on some old originals.

 

Also, if you can move the pivot point higher it will help. I just recently got my trigger put in on my Lancaster, and the pivot point is quite a bit higher than the sear bar. The top of the trigger slopes downward to meet the sear. It has a very light but crisp pull... probably in the 2-3lb. range.

Of course, part of that is the sear notch fit on the tumbler... I knew it was going to be light when I worked the lock with my thumb prior to putting it in the stock. You may be able to do some extremely careful polishing in that area and improve it a bit.

 

[Hoyt]

Thanks for all the good advice..It's a Hedgecock trigger and far as I know doesn't come appart. I'm going to move it back at least 1/4" re-drill using same hole in stock and angle and if that doesn't work I'll file the blade at a sharp downward angle so when the blade contacts the sear it can just slide down the blade..if that don't work I'll get another one.

 

[Hoyt]

Moved it and it's a lot better..still needs to lighten up a hair though..maybe some polishing might do the trick.

 

[Erzulis boat]

I am a single trigger commando, and rarely use set triggers. (I build pistols)

After you get the pull thing ironed out, make sure that some initial triggerpull travel without sear contact is present. Even a tiny bit is sufficient. Wood moves, and a tight or somewhat preloaded condition could cause the sear to not engage the tumbler safely or correctly.

It is not PC, but I usually cut an elongated notch on the underside of the triggerbar, and slide a very light coilspring around the created column. This will apply mild pressure to the sear no matter what the wood wants to do.

Your trigger will not flop around, and the super loose initial takeup is eliminated.

You are not out to induce a lighter triggerpull by applying force with a heavy spring, as this would be absolutely foolhardy.

The spring should be light enough to center the triggerbar, and prevent the weight of the trigger assembly from shifting under it's own weight. Thats all.

:m2c:

 

[Hoyt]

I got the trigger down to 4lbs. and haven't cleaned the lock up yet..so may get another lb. or so off..hope so..won't be long before I'm through with it..been working on it for 14days so far.