Help identifying 10 bore

[cgoff]

Picked up this 10 bore at a local shop and was wondering if anybody might know anything about it. The only markings I could find were on the barrel and the hook breach and the fact that its an l&r lock. Also have an issue with the lock. When it is in half **** the top jaw on the **** touches the Frizzen and wont allow it to close all the way. Is thier a way to correct this?

 

[Britsmoothy]

Is that flint up against the screw?

 

[cgoff]

Is that flint up against the screw?

Yes it is

 

[Britsmoothy]

Yes it is

It's a puzzler.

 

[Britsmoothy]

Wonder if the sear has been ground or previously broken and ground.

 

[Feltwad]

Take a good look at the image it is quite obvious what is wrong but I am saying nought .
Feltwad

 

[LawrenceA]

Far from an expert but suggest turning the flint over. It will reduce contact length but will provide clearance.

 

[Musketeer]

From the pics, it is not the top jaw of the **** but the edge of the flint that is holding the frizzen open. As Lawrence said, flipping the flint should allow the frizzen to close all the way.

 

[user 49399]

The picture may be deceiving, but it looks to me like the flint needs to be turned over and pushed back against the screw. Just my 10 cents.

 

[Eric Krewson]

It is a flint mounting problem not a lock problem, move it back, you have plenty of room.

 

[Eric Krewson]

That notch in the barrel for what I assume is for lock bolt clearance would scare me on a smoothbore barrel. Smooth bore barrels are thin and that is a very deep notch.

 

[Grenadier1758]

First make some adjustments with the flint. Turn the flint to the bevel up position. Put a match stick under the back edge of the flint to lower the front edge of the flint. Make the cut out in the flint leather so the leather clears the jaw screw and the flint can be moved back.

 

[cgoff]

Take a good look at the image it is quite obvious what is wrong but I am saying nought .
Feltwad

Then why even post

 

[kje54]

Picked up this 10 bore at a local shop and was wondering if anybody might know anything about it. The only markings I could find were on the barrel and the hook breach and the fact that its an l&r lock. Also have an issue with the lock. When it is in half **** the top jaw on the **** touches the Frizzen and wont allow it to close all the way. Is thier a way to correct this?View attachment 60419View attachment 60420View attachment 60421View attachment 60422

As everyone is focused on the flint placement I'll address the maker question as best I can. I don't recognize anything to specify any well known manufacturer but that doesn't mean it wasn't made by one of the long gone Italian or US reproduction manufacturers. My guess is that it's a "kit" build or (more likely) a parts build. I don't recognize the markings, hopefully someone else will come by who does.

 

[cgoff]

From the pics, it is not the top jaw of the **** but the edge of the flint that is holding the frizzen open. As Lawrence said, flipping the flint should allow the frizzen to close all the way.

I flipped the flint and it gives me clearance but it was only striking the bottom third of the Frizzen and not opening it all the time. Switched to larger flint and corrected the problem but looks funny how it sits. This look right? Yes the flint is against the screw

 

[Britsmoothy]

I think it needs a longer sear!

 

[Musketeer]

You know, after seeing that new closeup pic, I think Brit may be right. There should be more room between the top jaw and the frizzen face in half ****, no matter the position of the flint (bevel up or down).

 

[Grenadier1758]

I was thinking more of a new tumbler with the half **** notch further back in the rotation. But the longer sear would be easier to make.

 

[flntlokr]

I was thinking more of a new tumbler with the half **** notch further back in the rotation. But the longer sear would be easier to make.

maybe the tip broke off the sear?

 

[DickS]

Has the flint leather been cut away to allow the flint to be mounted further back?