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Help Needed for Black Metal Finish on Hawken Rifle

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I am having to restore an early Hawken and need help where to find the black finish for the barrel and stock parts. I used a finish years ago that turned the metal black rather than brown. It was applied and heat activation colored the metal to a rick black. Can anyone help me with finding this?
 
Get yourself some Mark Lee's Express Blue and follow the directions. It's called "rust blue" You will need to either boil the part after you apply the solution or somehow steam the part to convert the rust oxides into a dark blue/black surface finish. Look on YouTube for some videos:thumb:
 
Get yourself some Mark Lee's Express Blue and follow the directions. It's called "rust blue" You will need to either boil the part after you apply the solution or somehow steam the part to convert the rust oxides into a dark blue/black surface finish. Look on YouTube for some videos:thumb:
Thanks, but that is not what I'm looking for. The finish I'm trying to locate turns the metal a jet black black, not dark blue. It was very easy to apply. You coated the metal, then held it over heat such as a stove, and the coloring was immediate.
 
Here is a picture of what the rust blue looks like
Russ Hawken 67.JPG
 
The way I did it in the past was to do a normal LMF cold brown, and then to cover the parts in dirty motor oil. Then I torched them with a propane torch. I had to do it a couple of times to get it black. The surface isn't a smooth shiny black though. It's sort of a matte, due to the rust browning making all those tiny pits.

The book ( process came from "Engraving Historical Firearms") said the oil would catch fire, but that was not my experience. It just smoked some. Just to be safe though I hung the barrel from a wire outside.
 
The way I did it in the past was to do a normal LMF cold brown, and then to cover the parts in dirty motor oil. Then I torched them with a propane torch. I had to do it a couple of times to get it black. The surface isn't a smooth shiny black though. It's sort of a matte, due to the rust browning making all those tiny pits.

The book ( process came from "Engraving Historical Firearms") said the oil would catch fire, but that was not my experience. It just smoked some. Just to be safe though I hung the barrel from a wire outside.
I may go with the Lee's, but it's not what I want. My guess is the finish I used eons ago is no longer available. Sad, because it worked so well, and was very simple to use. You cleaned the steel, coated it the the solution, hold the part over a hot plate. and it turned black in seconds. I finished by cleaning the parts again, heated them until beeswax would melt on the surface to seal.
I may attempt to contact Muzzle Blast and see if they would investigate. My shop isn't heated, so I will have to wait until spring to do any work. My Google Fu turns up nothing. Why would such a good product not still exist?
 
I have a CVA Hawken in 32 caliber with a factory black barrel. It needs a touch up from where I got after it with steel wool and was looking at Brownell's. They sell "BLACK" blueing. Thinking I'll try that and see if it gets a match.
And the work that ZUG showed? First class job. :thumb: :thumb: :cool:
 
I think Jim Kibler sells the product you are looking for on his website. It's labeled as a brass blackening, but he recommends it as a barrel and lock darkening solution for his Southern Mountain rifles. I bought a quart bottle several years ago and I've had good luck with it. Go to kiblerlongrifles.com and search in the Finishing Supplies tab. I believe he's posted an instructional video on youtube as well.
 
Hi,
What do you mean by restoring an early Hawken? Is this just an older reproduction or are you actually restoring an original Hawken?

dave
 
Yes, what did you use?
Heat the metal to about 300 degrees using plum-brown carding between two coats. use 0000 steel wool on the final coat. reheat and use Brownnels Oxpho-Blue two coats steel wool between each coat and oil.
I wipe the metal between each coat with acetone. The browning sets up the metal and the cold blue penetrates deeper.
 
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