help with CVA Kentucky pistol

[lewinskics]

Hello all,
I am in the process of putting together a CVA Kentucky pistol (.45 percussion) from an old kit I picked up at an estate sale(unopened box). So far, the assembly is going well. I have everything fitting together properly and the hammer centers the nipple perfectly. The only thing that troubles me is that the trigger pull is excessive. And I don't mean slightly- it feels like it is breaking at about 10 - 12 pounds. Does anyone know if this is the norm for this pistol? I also own a CVA rifle in .50 and the trigger is fine on it. I wasn't expecting a crisp, set trigger-like feel, but this is ridiculous. My next question is, assuming there isn't something wrong with the trigger assembly, how difficult is it to tune the trigger? Or is this something best left to a gunsmith? Thanks in advance for any and all help.

 

[mazo kid]

Chris, are the sear and full cock notches smooth? If not, you can lightly stone them, maintaining the correct angles. That should help a lot. If they are rough that can make for a hard trigger pull. Sometimes, just firing the pistol a lot will help improve trigger pull as the surfaces wear in.

 

[lewinskics]

They don't seem excessively rough, though I am sure they could certainly stand a little polishing. I had the same thought about the trigger "loosening" up with usage. I am just surprised at how heavy the pull is and was wondering if this was the norm out of the box. I've pulled it a few more times and I think my assessment of 10-12 pounds might even be a bit light if that seems possible.

 

[mykeal]

That much force is abnormal for that gun. I suspect you have some interference with the wood, probably in the lock area. I'd use some inletting black on the lock parts and the trigger and look for any interference.

Also, go over to the Gun Builder's Bench subforum and post this message. Lots of guys with experience with this and similar guns.

 

[MikeChapin]

Have you tried adjusting the sear engagement with the tumbler. There is a spring loaded screw on the tumbler that will allow you to set how deep the sear rests in the full cock notch.

With the screw all the way out, the sear rests deeply in the notch. When trying to fire from this position sometimes you can see the hammer move back a tiny bit before the sear trips. You are actually trying to cock the piece a little with the trigger.

 

[lewinskics]

Thanks, guys. I checked the inletting again as mykeal suggested and did find some contact with the stock, though it is not in an area that would interfere with sear and/or tumbler. As Mike2005 suggested, I looked at the adjustment screw and lo and behold, it was all the way out. A few full turns of the screw in, and I could see the sear engaging the tumbler less. The trigger, though still not what I would call "baby smooth"(it will take some stoning for that, I'm sure), is a far cry from what it was and is now what I would call manageable. Thanks again for helping!

 

[Leatherbark]

I like to polish the trigger bar where it mates against the sear bar........Polish both surfaces in addition to what you have already done..................Bob

 

[MikeChapin]

It's difficult to get those pistols baby smooth but they can be adjusted to the point where the trigger pull is good enough for most anything you want to do with it.

The problem is that the lock doesn't have a bridal to hold the tumbler completly solid. You will get some internal flexing that will vary from shot to shot. Nothing terrible but will change the apparent trigger pull a little from shot to shot.

Years ago I decided to make a match shooter out of one of these pistols. I got a "Deluxe" maslin lock, one with a bridal and a fly. You could pick those up for about $25.00 in those days. I also got a Pedersolli single set trigger for it for about $30.00. It all worked great. Given my lousy pistol shooting skills, I managed to place in a few matches. It was a heart breaker when it died in a fire a few years later.

 

[lewinskics]

Once I finish the pistol and fire it a few times, I'll have a better feel for the trigger. I'm sure with a little polishing, it will be more than acceptable (given my pistol shooting skills as well!). Just adjusting the screw has improved it 100% from what it was. Thanks again for the input.

 

[LRB]

You only need the sear to be in the notch to the depth of the sear face. Another great help would be to lighten the sear spring by carefully thinning it in both directions keeping it at a taper in both directions. All standard locks have an over powered sear spring for libility reasons. This would be a cut and try. The sear spring only needs enough power to set the sear in the notch in a positive manner. No more, no less. You will find that to be 75% of your problem.

 

[rafterob]

I am currently working on the Traditions version which is probably the same gun with few differences. When I adjust the screw to a decent pull then the trigger is loose-doesn't snug up against the sear at full-cock. I will probably replace the trigger with one that has a higher plate, had to do that on another gun recently.I had a CVA-Jukar back in the day and tuned the sear up pretty good to where it had a nice light and smooth pull.